Outdoor Midweek Meets


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Previously:


Denham Quarry

Wed 17th May, 2017

Quarried gritstone and the longest route name in Lancashire...


Report

Members present: Mark Ashley, Duncan Zerafa.

Guests present (who really should be members by now): Jack Buczko, Isabel Prause.

Mark had arrived early at the crag, waiting for other keen Karabiner Mountaineering Club folk to turn up. The constant rain around Manchester and heavy traffic had left the decisions to attend until later in the day, thus most arriving fashionably late but with less time for routes. However for those that had braved the gloomy forecast at Denham were greeted by evening summer sunbeams, glittering on golden gritstone. The imagined sodden rock and an infinity of midges had vanished into the ether. Views from the panoramic crag took in the South Lakes to the north and the Ribble estuary to the west.

Jack had his sights on leading Concave Wall S 4a at the pool area which he thought was good climbing, but spent more time than anticipated gardening the choss with his nut key. This was followed  by another lead of Step into the Clouds  S 4b a route described as covered in yellow spiders! Mark seconded Jack on both routes and said both routes were "very well lead" .

It would be amiss not to get to Denham Quarry and not try some of Lancashire's longest named routes. Duncan duly obliged with a lead of Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits VS 4c.  A three star route and top 50 in Rockfax, the route didn't disappoint. Quite easy to find good gear placement lower down not so much in the run out top half (unless using small brass offsets). Isabel seconded and thought it was great climbing. This was followed by a lead of Ganglion VS 4a, initially it was meant to be a climb up Main Break HS 4a but ended up on the Ganglion  traverse. A poorly protected route and Hard Very Chossy finish! Isabel seconded again but didn't think it as good as the previously very long named route. An attempt at Mad Karoo HVS 5a was thought too bold and too dark now in the gloaming light. 

Twilight and evening fell and then the dark brought the evening stars. A convening at the pub had the three crags Shining Clough, Wilderness Rocks and Witches Quarry on the table. Rapid voting meant a change of texture for next week with Lancashire limestone winning out at Witches Quarry. So gritstone-free climbing next wednesday.

Duncan Zerafa

Pule Hill, Marsden

Wed 10th May, 2017

Hillside natural grit with excellent sunset potential...


Report

Members: Dave Wylie, Elliot brown, Clay Conlon, Ding, Andy Stratford, Jared Kitchen, Emily Thompson, Duncan Zerafa. Cathy Gordon

Guests: Chris Kastavunis, Jack Buczko, John Smallwood, Patti xarilia. George Babbington, Amy Spray, Tom Ferneyhough. Beth Thomas,

A lovely sunny evening, too warm for the midges at first but they only seemed half bothered when they did finally come. We were treated to a golden sunset and simultaneous full moon rise at what has to be one of the Clubs favourite Wednesday evening venues.

Over in the quarry Elliot and Jared had fine leads of the Great Scoop (VS 5a) with Jared going on to lead Illiad (HVS) and Megatron (E1). Elliot was also busy on the main edge leading Square Buttress (VS 4c) and Hangover Edge (HS 4b). He omitted to mention the guidebook Beta on Square Buttress to an increasingly puzzled Clay....

Flying Buttress (HS 4b) was (as ever) the most popular route of the evening; first from Andy who led the beautifully exposed variation traverse. Clay, Elliot, Cathy and Duncan all led the original finish with Duncan having the first of his attempts to emulate Pattis flexibility with some amusing ‘’leg-over’’ moments. Patti approved of Andy’s recommendation of ‘friendly overhang (MVS 4b)’’ and once again Duncan stretched the-parts-that-will- be-sore tomorrow.  Wrinkled wall was as poorly protected as ever for Patti, who this time wasn’t quite as appreciative of Mr Presidents enthusiasm. Has Been (V Diff) had leads from Dave and Cathy, Ladder Ridge (Diff) was led by Emily on her 3 rd ever outdoor lead. Kletterschue capers had attention from Beth then Jack. Dave did Bed End and Duncan stretched out once again on Flying Arete.

There were, of course, far too many seconds of routes to record, but a special welcome goes to newcomers Amy Spray, Tom Ferneyhough and George Babbington.

At the Carriage House there were proposals for Ramshaw Rocks which exited first then a fairly close second was Running Hill Pits, but the winner was the perhaps less visited Denham up near Chorley – a great quarry with some classic Lancashire grit routes.

Andy Stratford

Castle Naze

Wed 3rd May, 2017

Ultra classic natural grit with historic routes


Report

Members: Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Clay Conlon, James Hall, Duncan Zerafa, James Meakin, Nils Elgar

Guests: James Duthie, Chris Kastavunis, Jack Buczko, Hannah and Tim Elgar

Another good Wednesday turnout at the Naze. The forecast  promised sun and wind but the crag was sheltered and the outlook cloudy with rain threatening but never appearing. A chill descended and the wee beasties stayed away. The KMC team had a super busy evening with successful leads of The Niche (S 4a), Studio (HS 4a) , Pilgrims Progress (HS 4b) , Keep Buttress (HVS 5a), Scoop Face (HVS 5a), The Crack (VS 4b), Nozag (VS 4c), Long Climb (V diff) and Atropine (HS 4b). Final route of the evening was Flake Crack (HS 4b) which Duncan ascended in fading light -  Jack was the lucky second, by now well practised at extracting Duncans nuts from the gloomy cracks after previous performances by headtorch at two other crags had led to headtorch abseil retrieval. A special mention goes to young Hannah Elgar who followed her dad up both VS’s with utter surety.

Eight made the excellent Beehive in Coombs where the honeyed tones of Dave Wylie cast the Pule Hill spell over Running Hill Pits and Alderman Rocks.

Prepare for a border raid next week – Yorkshire it is!

Andy Stratford

Troy Quarry

Wed 26th Apr, 2017


Report

Members present: Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Jared Kitchen, Emily Thompson, Emily Pitts. James Hall. Ding, Clay Conlon, Elliot Brown, Duncan Zerafa,

Guests: James Duthie, Patti Xariklia, Isobel Prause, Sarah Kendall, John Smallwood. Chris Kastavunis, Jack Buczko,

Seventeen members and guests attended at this ever popular Wednesday sunset spot in the Haslingdon hills on a very chilly evening, but at least that meant no midges!

As usual at Troy it was impossible to record all the ascents so just the leads are acknowledged here – and then a few have been missed so apologies in advance!

Emily P started her evening with a lead of left Siamese twin (S 4a) which over the course of the evening received attention from Jack and Andy and numerous seconds. Dave and Jack both lead the other twin. Mucky Pups (VS 4c) had leads from James Duthie whilst Patti got seriously cold on Rapunzle (VS 5a).

Elliot had a fine evening with leads of Siamese Arete (E1 5a), Siam Groove (VS 5a) and Rapunzle (VS 5a). Clay led Jussy HVS 5a and followed several other harder routes.

Duncan had yet another productive evening with several leads including Mucky pups (VS 4c), Troy Groove (VS 4b), Cracked Wall (VS 4c) and No Right Turn (VS 4c).

Jared made a spirited attempt on Pink Edge (E2 5b), one of the few three star routes in the quarry. James Hall made sterling work with the technical Dovetail (E1 5c) but was repulsed by Tess E1 5b – not sure if he had success...

By 8.30 most folk had seriously cold fingers with the dropping temperatures and so to the Holden arms for the usual banter and voting for next weeks crag. Pule Hill and Cows Mouth Quarry were two of the three suggestions but it was classic natural grit of Castle Naze which attracted the most votes. We head south next week!

Andy Stratford

Anglezarke Quarry

Wed 19th Apr, 2017


Report

Members: Dave Wylie, Duncan Zerafa, Steve Graham, Tim Howarth, Ben Slater, Jared Kitchen, Dan O’Brien, Elliot Brown, Emily Pitts

Guests: Isabel Prause, Patti Xariklia, Jack Buczko, Caro C, Alastair Philp, John Smallwood, Chris Kastavunis

From a visit around a decade ago, your correspondent remembered Anglezarke Quarry as a midge infested rat hole… Luckily, for this visit, the rats were nowhere to be found but the midges were in fine fettle.  We had a great turnout of 16 members and guests and some fine weather which allowed plenty of climbing.

There were many original ascents of Aldred's Original (VD) including Jack, Dave and Alastair all followed by multiple enthusiastic seconds.  Dave then went on the lead Whittaker's Original (HS 4a).  Meanwhile, Emily led Meanwhile (S) because Dave was climbing Because (HS) with a little jaunt into the shrubbery, which Caro then seconded. 

Duncan managed to wedge in a lead of Wedge (HS 4b) followed by Isobel and Caro - with a supporting role from Dave W removing a particularly stuck nut.  Dan also led followed by Tim and John.  Patti led Metamorphosis, a rather bold VS also led by Ben.  Patti was followed by Dan and Tim.  Elliot cruised up Terra Cotta (HVS) followed by Jared.  Dan also climbed Terra Cotta with much less poise, followed by Tim (on his first KMC midweek meet – surprising for a full member).  Patti followed and made it look so easy Tim suggested she should be made to climb it again.

Steve had a nightmare on Nightmare (VS 4b) seconded by Ben and Emily.  Tim had less of a nightmare but gained much more airtime on the same route, caught and followed by Dan.  Elliott and Jared spent some time working Fingertip Control (E4) which they described variously as “brutal” and a “monster”.

Finally, Jared led First Finale (E1) followed by Elliott and Patti. 

Happy days. The midges that came out to welcome us at first eventually overcame our enthusiasm and as the light faded we retreated to the pub.  With a number of new members it fell to your corespondent to explain the voting rules after which we had four choices.  Cow’s Mouth was first to fall after a three way tie for last place resulted in a run-off. Next to go was Castle Naze followed by Alderman leaving Troy Quarry as the winner.

Emily and Dan


Wilton 1

Wed 12th Apr, 2017


Report

Elliott Brown

Ben Slater

Dave Wylie
Duncan Zerafa
Nils Elgar
John Smallwood
Chris Kastavunis
Isobel Prause
Naomi Roberts

Although the weather for Wilton 1 was not looking favourable during the day, our band of climbers arrived at the Quarry to find some of the faces were definitly dry enough and some sought after routes were in good conditions to be climbed.

The evening started with Elliott lead on with Dave on the wobbly climb of Flywalk (VS 4b **), after giving up the start of Christine Arete (E3 5c *). Closely followed by Nils leading Birds Chimney (S 4a *), with Naomi and John following. Then a party set out for the most sort out route of the night, 999 (HS 4c ***). Dave lead with Elliott following up second, so named because "of the 999 pieces of gear I put in the route". Isobel and Duncan set out for Rambling route (VD *), while a queue was being formed for 999. Ben lead on after Elliott on 999, with Chris following up on second.

Nils in the meantime went hunting for the aptly named Overhanging Weetabix (E2 5c), before sorting out The Overhang (VS). But, the calling was too much for the team, and the party abandoned The Overhang in favour of 999. Nils took took to the climb, leading a small party (Isobel, Duncan and John) up it in the dying light (John racing up, eager to get a drink in the pub). Elliott and Dave had wandered back to The Prow to have a crack at the right start for Christeena (VS 4c **), which felt a bit better, although the wind is a bit off putting going around the arete. Ben jumped onto the other end, after Elliott spent a fair amount of time faffing around at the top, throwing gear off into the grass.

The group then retreated to the pub to vote on next week's meet. Troy, Cows Mouth and Anglezarke Quarry were offered, with Cows Mouth quickly being dispatched, and Anglezarke Quarry taking gold in a victorious round of votes (I suspect Troy is being saved for another week...) 

Elliott Brown

Hobson Moor Quarry

Wed 5th Apr, 2017

This time... This time things will be different...


Report

Members: Emily Pitts, Clay Conlon, Dave Wylie,  James Hall, Elliot Brown, Ben Slater, James Meakin, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford, Gowry Sisupalan, Nils Elgar, Alice Bowes-Larkin .

Guests: Jack Buzco, Chris Kastavunis, Caro Churchill, Hannah and Tim Elgar.

A grand turn out of seventeen members and guests for the first outdoor Wednesday evening meet of the year at local favourite Hobson Moor. It was a busy evening, with the Rucsac club and a few other local regulars as well, and all the usual routes got ticked off.

The Harp (VS 4b) had leads from Jim, Nils, Andy and Elliot, who took the steeper finish; Foghorn Groove (Vs 4c) by Jim and Elliot; Crews (VS 4c) was tackled in style by Jim, Clay and Ben; Jim led the fine arête and crack of Gideon (VS 5a) and James Hall was confident on Parkers  (HVS 5a) but found the back wall traverse ‘pumpy’ – it was James’s first trip to Hobby – he’ll be addicted to that traverse soon......

Andy had a wobbly first lead of the year on the super sandbag of Evening Ridge (HVD) – this was pronounced harder than the Harp and Epitaph corner by both Andy and Jack! Elliot made short work of Grain of Sand (VS 5a) ;Epitaph corner (VS 4b) had a number of leads including Andy, Jim, Ben and Nils whilst Pocket Wall (VDiff) was led by Andy, Dave and James Meakin
All the routes were seconded many many times including the Harp and Epitaph in fine style by Hannah, and Gowry deserves a mention – first rock route after climbing maternity leave!

Thirteen made the pub and with quarries in favour (before the midges takes hold) we saw Wilton 1, Den Lane, Troy and Anglezarke on the table with Wilton 1 taking the honours. 

Andy Stratford

Hobson Moor Quarry

Wed 29th Mar, 2017

An oldie, but a goodie for the first outdoor Wednesday of the year!


Report

Rain and gloom forced a rollover...

Daniel O'Brien

New Mills Torrs

Wed 28th Sep, 2016

Perma-dry quarried grit with traditional and sport options


Report

Members: Clay Conlon, Duncan Zerafa, Cathy Gordon, Andy Stratford

Guests: Elliot Brown, Isobel Prause, James Duthie, Pati Xariklia, Alastair Philp, Jack Jarvis, John Smallwood.

The equinox has passed and with it the final advertised Wednesday outdoor meet for a while. There’s always the options of night ascents of Thors Cave and The Bat, and hopefully we’ll get out for a night ascent of some ice in Wildboarclough, Wilderness Gully or maybe even the legendary Downfall... but for now here are the antics of the final eleven (not some football reference for those following the England manager debacle).

Clay managed an early arrival before 3pm and after some bouldering led the pumpy Alcove Crack (HVS 5a) with James Duthie. Later on Pati made a fine lead utilising the kneebar rest for two hands off, Duncan followed. Elliot was up next and made another fine job of it again with the kneebar, Alastair struggled to follow but did manage to second Elliot up Piggy Crack (VS 4c) as did Cathy.

Over on the bolted grit bridge pillar, James Duthie led The Thin End of The Hedge (F6a) with Isobel providing support. Jack Jarvis and John Smallwood arrived very late and tried another bolted route but backed off after 2 clips – both finished the evening bouldering until the holds faded!

On the trad wall nearest the bridge James Duthie led Deception HVS 5a, Andy The Foundling VS 4c and Duncan Cracked corner S 4a. Various members of the team seconded.  The Rock Tavern seemed a suitably monikered establishment, and the democratic and unanimous vote was to head to Awesome Walls at Stockport next wednesday – The indoors is back on!

Andy Stratford

Hobson Moor Quarry

Wed 21st Sep, 2016

It's getting late in the season - super short walk-ins are the order of the day!


Report

Members - Cathy Gordon, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford, James Meakin, Duncan Zerafa, Nils Elgar, Fiona Dixon, John Evans, Clay Conlon, Dan O’Brien

Guests – Elliot Brown, James Duthie, Hanna and Tim 

It’s that time of year again…

Limited by the fading light the KMC returned to Hobson Moor Quarry with ire’s short (and recently broadened) walk-in.  There was a solid turn-out for a late season Wednesday as the KMC set about ticking some of the oft-travelled local classics.  Nils led Epitaph Corner (VS) followed by Fiona and Hanna who had to employ some creative footwork to make up for lack of reach on the tricky section.  Epitaph was also climbed by Elliott, followed by Dave and Andy, followed by James M.

Dan book-ended the midweek season by leading Parker’s Eliminate (HVS) which he also climbed as his first route on the first Wednesday back in April.  Andy followed using a very different sequence.  Clay also led Parker’s having employed the power of pasta1 to ensure success, followed by Dan in the drizzle.  Jim had a productive evening leading Crew’s Route (VS), The Harp (HS) and Foghorn Groove (VS) all followed by Cathy (on her first and last midweek of the year) and the latter also followed by James M who also led Pocket Wall (VD).  Elliott moved onto The Harp with Dave and James D led Crew’s Route and the Harp followed by Duncan.

Last and by no-means least came Fiona and John on Midnight Variation (S).  It starts up Evening Ridge (VD) which is described on UKC as “not to be recommended” and then finishes up a wall or groove on the right.  As the drizzle descended the dirty and steep corner and wall became almost impassable and a rope was requested (and subsequently provided by Dan).  After John topped out fiona followed in full drizzle mode and the rest of us decamped to the Pub.

If there is something to be said about the shorter evenings it is the increased opportunities for sitting in the pub.  Alas Duncan didn’t get the memo and left his nomination (for Wilton 1) and vote via proxy.  The other nominations were Dovedale (optimistic at the best of times and positively foolhardy at this time of year) and New Mills Tor.  New Mills was victorious in a run off against Wilton (which mounted a surprisingly strong challenge given its absence of floodlights!)  So its perma-dry quarried grit next week for what is likely the last outdoor Wednesday of the year (unless your correspondent finally wins a vote for an evening of aid climbing in Dovedale).

Until next week…

[1] Apparently couscous had previously been shown not to provide a sufficient boost.  We expect him to release the full dataset shortly and look forward to his work with potatoes.

Daniel O'Brien

Troy Quarry

Wed 14th Sep, 2016

I'm sure there will be no midges this week...


Report

Members: Clay Conlon, Fiona Dixon, Emily Pitts, Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Duncan Zerafa, James Meakin, Mark Ashley,

Guests: Elliot Brown, Emily Thompson, Isobel Prause, Pati Xariklia, James Duthie, John Smallwood, Alaistair Philp, Jack Buzkco

Sixteen members and guests on a very hot, muggy late summers evening – so warm that the midges couldn’t really be bothered. Clay arrived before 3pm with Fiona and climbed a fine series of leads: Stacked Deck, Loose Living and Pillar Cracks with eventual success on the notorious sandbag of Sounder (HVS 5a). The rest of us drifted in after 5pm, anticipating that Dave would show up with the new guide in the hope that we might discover new hidden gems.....but no such luck....still plenty of the classics to go at.

Clay continued his evenings fine haul by following Fiona up Right Siamese twin then Andy up Cracked Wall (VS c) then finishing off with a lead of Mucky Pups (HVS 5a). Also leading Mucky Pups was Duncan – reaching a personal goal of climbing HVS in his first season of trad –well done fella! He was swiftly brought back to earth (not quite literally, fortunately), with an interesting looking (and sounding!) fall from the well travelled VS 5a Rapunzle which involved a painful straddling of the rope in just the wrong part of the anatomy. Jack failed to extract Duncan’s most wedged nut from deep in the crack, resulting in abseil time for the benighted pair – good job there was a full moon.

Pati and James Duthie made a formidable team ticking off several of the harder classics including Questionable Stability, Mucky Pups and Grane Wall.  James Meakin led One way Street, Left siamese twin and followed Elliot up Stacked Deck

Right Siamese twin was also led by Andy, Emily and Elliot with Isobel, John, Emily Tink, Mark and Alaistair all following plus various other seconds on the other routes.

About twelve of us made the pub where there was much scepticism and mistrust of motive about the Presidents proposal of New Mills Torrs after the midge fest at Den Lane which he proposed and then failed to attend.  An excellent sales pitch by the ever hungry (for food, not climbing) Emily Pitts led to Hobsons choice.

Andy Stratford

Windgather

Wed 7th Sep, 2016

A return trip to a popular crag in the hope of light breeze and fewer midges...


Report

Another short walk in to a first class natural edge with grades to suit all…..

Before I proceed with the meet report I will make my apologies in advance for not knowing all the members & guests surnames (and the lack of interest to look them up on the KMC web site) and also apologise for any omissions, and or errors of fact.

So, in the absence of – most- surnames you are described as below……!

Members

Fiona – Nice girl who enjoyed an evening of intense Soloing (definitely not a euphemism!).

John – Fiona’s fella with an impressive beard

Duncan – Who’s surname that begins with a Z that I can’t pronounce - never mind spell or remember

Clay – Actually thought this was his surname...  Genuinely thought his first name was Cassius.

Dave Whilie – I know it’s not spelt this way, but I do know it will irritate him!

Roger Dyke

Nils + children

Gary – recently recovering from surgery on his nether’s – no soloing for a while yet then Gary ;-)

James – not a very good climber, not known for his meet report writing skills either.

Guests

John – no redeeming features

Another John…. or was it Jack…. Anyway, he had red jumper on…. I think…  

Patrizia – Almost certainly spelt wrong?

Isobel Prause

Gareth Collom ?

James – unusually well humoured for Scot’s man and a good climber to boot.

Conditions

The weather was fab and as usual the rock was in fine condition. Fun was had by all. The general mood was somewhat lowered late on, by the arrival of the midges. At which point we beat a hasty retreat a pub in Whalley Bridge – who’s name I can’t recall (no surprises there!) however, I fear the interior décor and choice of music may never fade from my memory.

Peoples favourite routes of the evening were: Portfolio, High Buttress Arete indirect, High Buttress Arete direct, Medicine, Wall climb & Missippi Crack.

In the absence of our OMS & El Pres. does this count as a "meet lead" for me - surely it must?

The destination – decided by the vote - for next Wednesdays meet is Troy Quarry. Hope to see you all there

James Meakin

Den Lane, Uppermill

Wed 31st Aug, 2016

Another short walk to an excellent quarry with grades for all


Report

Members: Dan O’Brien, Dave Wylie, James Hall, James Meakin, Clay Conlon, Duncan Zerafa, George Williams

Guests: Amy Spray, Hannah Miltoff, Elliott Brown, Pati Xariklia, James Duthie, Ryan Linerman, Esmira Ropaj, Tom Ferneyhough, Nick Peristianis

Our suspicions were first raised when the until recently rubbish-filled hole-in-the-ground known as Den Lane was nominated last week by El Presidente, only for him to disappear off to the Swiss Alps.  Luckily, the local midges turned out in force in his stead, though their names are not recorded.  When your corespondent pointed out that some others must have voted for it James M said “Yes, but we didn’t realise what we were voting for…”  Now where have I heard that before?

Undeterred, James D climbed Orchestral Crack (HVS), a steep corner with a very tenuous top-out to an old piece of mangled metal and a bolted lower-off.  After a couple of rests on the steep final crack James fashioned a belay and lowered off removing the gear.  Hannah and Nick followed and then abseiled down.  Dave exacted revenge on Ash Tree Direct (S) which delivered all it promised (being a route that climbs direct, to an Ash Tree) which had defeated him on a previous visit.  Amy, Esmira and Tom followed him and the route was also led by Elliott, followed by Ryan.  

Dan led Three Notch Slab (VS) with a tricky start (try pulling really hard) and a bold finish (unless you have a Tri-Cam).  Clay provided the Tri-Cam and Dan was followed by James M and Elliott who all managed to get on the small ledge below the bolted belay.  Clay also led the route though with much less faff, followed by Duncan and George, who also teamed up to climb Sunset Crack (VS).   James M led Elderberry Slab (VD) followed by James D which he described as “grotty”.  Apparently it also lacked Elderberrys…  By now the midges were descending…

Over on the taller side of the quarry James H led Noah’s Crack (VS) followed by Pati.  Neither of them had anything positive to say about the route and especially the descent which looked almost as hard as the route if you shun a short abseil.  Super psyched James also climbed The Wilter (E1) which keeps a small pile of rocks at the bottom as testament to the fragile nature of parts of Den Lane.  After figuring out a tricky top section which the guide suggested might be "easier for the short” Pati followed to an ageing stance and they retreated by abseil.  Still keen they attempted Popple (HVS) which the guidebook described with a memorial at its base however this was not there thought the remains of a concrete plinth could be seen.  Shunning the guidebook description James did battle with the upper crack avoiding some of the more helpful holds out on the right resulting in some airtime and ultimately an irretrievable wire.  Pati followed grumbling about jamming.

Dave finished the evening climbing Sunset Crack which had a straightforward start and a hideously tricky (if well protected) finish.  After trying left, right and straight up to surmount the final steep section Dave resorted to “French Free”. He eventually gained the belay on the right and was followed by Amy, Esmira and Tom who showed contempt for the rampaging midges which had, by this point, driven the rest of the KMC into the welcome shelter of the Waggon Pub in Uppermill.  Unfortunately, the abseil retreat was prolonged until well after dark as Dave and James H dangled on their respective routes; Dave trying to remove a stubborn friend and James still wrestling with his stuck wire. Dave won, James is a nut down…

In the pub the nominations for next week were Horseshoe Quarry, Troy Quarry and Windgather (this late in the season it was agreed that repeat nominations would be allowed…)  The voting was simple with Horseshoe eliminated first and Windgather winning the run-off.  The promise of a light breeze to blow away the midges seemed to be the biggest selling point.  There was a small commotion as some of our number arrived after the voting.  Dave complained that the vote was not quorate as there was only one Dave…  The appeal to ACAS is ongoing.

Daniel O'Brien

Castle Naze

Wed 24th Aug, 2016

Breezy edge 2 minutes walk with great routes for all


Report

Castle Naze meet report 24th August

Members: Nils Elgar, Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, James Meakin, George Williams, James Hall, Emily Pitts, Duncan Zerafa, Geri Milhalkova, Gary Thornhill, Jared Kitchen

Guests: Jasmine Pitts, Beth Thomas, Jim Smith, James Duthie, Hannah Milton, Nick Peristiansis, Don Brennan, Patti

Nineteen members and guests on a beautiful summers evening at ‘The Naze’, with some impressive ascents tonight: After soloing ten routes as a warm up then around half the girdle traverse, James Hall made a fine clean ascent of Belladonna E1 5c – an under-rated but excellent route. Andy struggled up with a tight rope and a short rest!

First to arrive though was Dave Wylie, leading Don up Central Tower (VDiff) and Keep Corner (HVD). James Meakin put the demons to bed with his lead of Keep Corner in fine style– the route from which he took a ground fall and some serious injuries just 18 months ago when gear ripped through. Nils was holding the ropes then went on to lead up The Crack (VS 4b) the Nithin (S4a) both followed by James.

 Nozag (VS 4c) – one of the best (and safest) VS’s in the peak - had leads from Duncan Zerafa who is going great guns in his first season leading trad. Andy also led. Seconds included Dave, Geri, James Hall, and Gary. Duncan also led Little Pillar at HS 4b.

The Crack (VS 4b) was popular tonight with Nils leading up with an impressive second by Jasmine Pitts. James and Emily also followed.  James Duthie was followed up later by James Hall.

Geri continued to hone leading skills on sheltered crack (S 4a), also lead by James M. Beth and Jim climbed Atropine (VS 4b) and Ledgeway (HVS 5a), Nick followed Pati up green crack. Don provided great entertainment attempting to follow Jared up Scoop Face and enjoyed himself so much he had no strength left for anything else! Hannah led Keep Corner and Green crack with James Duthie following on. Jared led Icebreaker (E2 5b) which was ‘’rubbish’’ then burnt himself out on the criminally undergraded pod crack E1 5c which stops most E4 leaders in their tracks.

The final entertainment of the night was provided by gear recovery specialist Wylie, attempting to remove an overcammed unit on Studio – unusually the attempt ended in failure – not often that Dave fails to retrieve stuck gear! Looks like it may be the latest bit of decoration on the Naze for some time......

We retied to the Beehive for a dose of honey (well – pork scratchings and bitter shandy, if you must ask) and voted on New Mills Tor, Tintwistle Knarr and the winner – Den Lane, Saddleworth. Bring your tricams.....

 

Andy Stratford

Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth

Wed 17th Aug, 2016

Quarried grit, spanners and plumb lines amid Sodom and Gomorrah


Report

Members: Dave Wylie, James Meakin, Fiona Dixon, John Evans, Clay Conlon, George Williams, Andy Stratford, Gareth Williams, Dave Shotton, Geri Milhalkova, Emily Pitts, Duncan Zerafa, Dan O’Brien

Guests: Elliot Brown, Beth Thomas, Ryan Lindfield, Katy O’Brien, Patti, Hannah Milton, James Duthie, Guido

The forecast was spot on: it was a fine, still, sunny summer evening up at the Pits with twenty one members and guests attending. However, those familiar with the Pits knew that the stillness meant that the wee beasties would put eventually put in an appearance.

Beth opened her account with Foile Bergeres (HS 4b) followed by Dave Wylie and Elliot. A later attempt by George was foiled by the tricky start but Duncan eventually overcame with the loan of a no. 5 friend from Andy. Ryan, George and Dave S all followed.

A little further right Andy jammed his way up the overhanging start of the delightfully named Dead Dog Crack VS 4c. When Dan O’Brien followed he gave the start 5a. Duncan obligingly confirmed it was stiff for a 4c when he fell off twice, eventually untying muttering about jamming…..Dave S made a fine effort on second followed speedily by an on-form Beth.

Gareth had a direct line on Spanner wall in his sights: The connection gets E3 6a in Over the Moors and E4 6b on UKC – either way, your president can confirm it is rather tricky, having failed to get even a metre off the ground as G-mans’ second. Gareth had made a great effort on it, having a short rest on the three rusty pegs before threading the eponymous spanner and high-tailing to the top. ‘’Pumpy’’ was how he described it. With a bit of rope shuffling, Beth then used the line to make an ascent as a second on Spanner Wall (E2 5b)

Elliot and Dave broke ranks and wandered round to the lesser used no. 5 (Weavers) Quarry making an ascent of the excellent HS 4b called Weavers Crack

Meanwhile, Clay was having a fine time on the immaculate three star VS 4c – Plumb Line – the best line at the Pits – Fiona and Dave followed. Patti, Hannah and James were next, all clearly enjoying the superb climbing. James Meakin set up a belay at the top of Hazy Groove and The Cracks. Lots of folk climbed these including Emily, Geri, Guido and John, who also managed a cheeky solo of Unctuous. Beth finished her busy evening with Midsummer (S) followed by Emily and Geri.

By 8pm the midges were just too much so most folk packed up, about fourteen made it to The Church where we gave thanks for the evening by imbibing golden nectar. Voting included Shining Clough, Millstone Rocks (longdendale) and Helsby but the clear winner was Castle Naze.

 

Andy Stratford


If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-

Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."


Midweek meets are held at local crags, normally on Wednesday evenings, weather permitting. The "Next Crag" will be decided by those keen people who climb and vote on the night (usually in a pub nearest to the crag).

Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the travelling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some of us might still be there after its gone dark.

If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.





Midweek Climbing Venues


Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (11)
Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (12)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (3)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (1)
Cadshaw Rocks (4)
Castle Naze (16)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (12)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (9)
Denham Quarry (7)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (10)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (9)
Helsby (11)
Hen Cloud (1)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (37)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (3)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (3)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (9)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (12)
Ramshaw Rocks (7)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (3)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (12)
Shining Clough Rocks (3)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage Popular End (1)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (4)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (22)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (12)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (6)
Windgather (18)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (13)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Others (7)



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