An oldie, but a goodie for the first outdoor Wednesday of the year!
Rain and gloom forced a rollover...
This time... This time things will be different...
Members: Emily Pitts, Clay Conlon, Dave Wylie, James Hall, Elliot Brown, Ben Slater, James Meakin, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford, Gowry Sisupalan, Nils Elgar, Alice Bowes-Larkin .
Guests: Jack Buzco, Chris Kastavunis, Caro Churchill, Hannah and Tim Elgar.
A grand turn out of seventeen members and guests for the first outdoor Wednesday evening meet of the year at local favourite Hobson Moor. It was a busy evening, with the Rucsac club and a few other local regulars as well, and all the usual routes got ticked off.
The Harp (VS 4b) had leads from Jim, Nils, Andy and Elliot, who took the steeper finish; Foghorn Groove (Vs 4c) by Jim and Elliot; Crews (VS 4c) was tackled in style by Jim, Clay and Ben; Jim led the fine arête and crack of Gideon (VS 5a) and James Hall was confident on Parkers (HVS 5a) but found the back wall traverse ‘pumpy’ – it was James’s first trip to Hobby – he’ll be addicted to that traverse soon......
Andy had a wobbly first lead of the year on the super sandbag of Evening Ridge (HVD) – this was pronounced harder than the Harp and Epitaph corner by both Andy and Jack! Elliot made short work of Grain of Sand (VS 5a) ;Epitaph corner (VS 4b) had a number of leads including Andy, Jim, Ben and Nils whilst Pocket Wall (VDiff) was led by Andy, Dave and James Meakin
All the routes were seconded many many times including the Harp and Epitaph in fine style by Hannah, and Gowry deserves a mention – first rock route after climbing maternity leave!
Thirteen made the pub and with quarries in favour (before the midges takes hold) we saw Wilton 1, Den Lane, Troy and Anglezarke on the table with Wilton 1 taking the honours.
Although the weather for Wilton 1 was not looking favourable during the day, our band of climbers arrived at the Quarry to find some of the faces were definitly dry enough and some sought after routes were in good conditions to be climbed.
The evening started with Elliott lead on with Dave on the wobbly climb of Flywalk (VS 4b **), after giving up the start of Christine Arete (E3 5c *). Closely followed by Nils leading Birds Chimney (S 4a *), with Naomi and John following. Then a party set out for the most sort out route of the night, 999 (HS 4c ***). Dave lead with Elliott following up second, so named because "of the 999 pieces of gear I put in the route". Isobel and Duncan set out for Rambling route (VD *), while a queue was being formed for 999. Ben lead on after Elliott on 999, with Chris following up on second.
Nils in the meantime went hunting for the aptly named Overhanging Weetabix (E2 5c), before sorting out The Overhang (VS). But, the calling was too much for the team, and the party abandoned The Overhang in favour of 999. Nils took took to the climb, leading a small party (Isobel, Duncan and John) up it in the dying light (John racing up, eager to get a drink in the pub). Elliott and Dave had wandered back to The Prow to have a crack at the right start for Christeena (VS 4c **), which felt a bit better, although the wind is a bit off putting going around the arete. Ben jumped onto the other end, after Elliott spent a fair amount of time faffing around at the top, throwing gear off into the grass.
The group then retreated to the pub to vote on next week's meet. Troy, Cows Mouth and Anglezarke Quarry were offered, with Cows Mouth quickly being dispatched, and Anglezarke Quarry taking gold in a victorious round of votes (I suspect Troy is being saved for another week...)
Members: Dave Wylie, Duncan Zerafa, Steve Graham, Tim Howarth, Ben Slater, Jared Kitchen, Dan O’Brien, Elliot Brown, Emily Pitts
Guests: Isabel Prause, Patti Xariklia, Jack Buczko, Caro C, Alastair Philp, John Smallwood, Chris Kastavunis
From a visit around a decade ago, your correspondent remembered Anglezarke Quarry as a midge infested rat hole… Luckily, for this visit, the rats were nowhere to be found but the midges were in fine fettle. We had a great turnout of 16 members and guests and some fine weather which allowed plenty of climbing.
There were many original ascents of Aldred's Original (VD) including Jack, Dave and Alastair all followed by multiple enthusiastic seconds. Dave then went on the lead Whittaker's Original (HS 4a). Meanwhile, Emily led Meanwhile (S) because Dave was climbing Because (HS) with a little jaunt into the shrubbery, which Caro then seconded.
Duncan managed to wedge in a lead of Wedge (HS 4b) followed by Isobel and Caro - with a supporting role from Dave W removing a particularly stuck nut. Dan also led followed by Tim and John. Patti led Metamorphosis, a rather bold VS also led by Ben. Patti was followed by Dan and Tim. Elliot cruised up Terra Cotta (HVS) followed by Jared. Dan also climbed Terra Cotta with much less poise, followed by Tim (on his first KMC midweek meet – surprising for a full member). Patti followed and made it look so easy Tim suggested she should be made to climb it again.
Steve had a nightmare on Nightmare (VS 4b) seconded by Ben and Emily. Tim had less of a nightmare but gained much more airtime on the same route, caught and followed by Dan. Elliott and Jared spent some time working Fingertip Control (E4) which they described variously as “brutal” and a “monster”.
Finally, Jared led First Finale (E1) followed by Elliott and Patti.
Happy days. The midges that came out to welcome us at first eventually overcame our enthusiasm and as the light faded we retreated to the pub. With a number of new members it fell to your corespondent to explain the voting rules after which we had four choices. Cow’s Mouth was first to fall after a three way tie for last place resulted in a run-off. Next to go was Castle Naze followed by Alderman leaving Troy Quarry as the winner.
Emily and Dan
Back to Current Midweek
Members present: Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Jared Kitchen, Emily Thompson, Emily Pitts. James Hall. Ding, Clay Conlon, Elliot Brown, Duncan Zerafa,
Guests: James Duthie, Patti Xariklia, Isobel Prause, Sarah Kendall, John Smallwood. Chris Kastavunis, Jack Buczko,
Seventeen members and guests attended at this ever popular Wednesday sunset spot in the Haslingdon hills on a very chilly evening, but at least that meant no midges!
As usual at Troy it was impossible to record all the ascents so just the leads are acknowledged here – and then a few have been missed so apologies in advance!
Emily P started her evening with a lead of left Siamese twin (S 4a) which over the course of the evening received attention from Jack and Andy and numerous seconds. Dave and Jack both lead the other twin. Mucky Pups (VS 4c) had leads from James Duthie whilst Patti got seriously cold on Rapunzle (VS 5a).
Elliot had a fine evening with leads of Siamese Arete (E1 5a), Siam Groove (VS 5a) and Rapunzle (VS 5a). Clay led Jussy HVS 5a and followed several other harder routes.
Duncan had yet another productive evening with several leads including Mucky pups (VS 4c), Troy Groove (VS 4b), Cracked Wall (VS 4c) and No Right Turn (VS 4c).
Jared made a spirited attempt on Pink Edge (E2 5b), one of the few three star routes in the quarry. James Hall made sterling work with the technical Dovetail (E1 5c) but was repulsed by Tess E1 5b – not sure if he had success...
By 8.30 most folk had seriously cold fingers with the dropping temperatures and so to the Holden arms for the usual banter and voting for next weeks crag. Pule Hill and Cows Mouth Quarry were two of the three suggestions but it was classic natural grit of Castle Naze which attracted the most votes. We head south next week!