Members: Colin Maddison, Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, Rob Allen, Robert Clark, Virginia Castick, Andrew Croughton, Joe Flynn.

Guests: Roisin Maddison, Luisa Scialpi-Sullivan, Kieran Lee, Alex Vidoris.

he drought of May gave way to the drought of June and so we came to July. The North West experienced its first hosepipe ban for 14 years and in the South Manchester Evening Cricket League the meet leader's team had lost just one match to rain, and that back in April.

The scene was set for the Cloggy meet ... and the heavens opened!

Still dry in Manchester on Friday afternoon, a text from Duncan indicated that all was not what it might be weather-wise in Wales, “Forgotten my gloves”, and shortly after a second text brought further insight, “Forget gloves. Have you got a wetsuit?”.

Driving down with Roisin and her friend Luisa, we emerged from successive tunnels on the A55 into ever worsening weather. ‘Metchecks' prediction of 0.3mm of precipitation on Cloggy seemed a tad optimistic.

Saturday morning the wind blew, driving the heavy rain almost horizontally. Almost, but not quite, and so the meet leader and his mate headed for Cloggy!

Walking from the hut the rain and wind continued unabated. Thus it was that we arrived some hour and a half later at the Far West Buttress of Cloggy, soaked to the skin and with Duncan looking faintly blue. Hmm, shorts! Interesting choice. Primitive Route (380ft VD) seemed an apt choice for two people so incapable of rational behaviour.

Wringing out our clothes, so as not to carry too much weight up the route, and with Duncan now appropriately clothed in long trousers, waterproofs were replaced and the ascent commenced. The route gets three stars in the latest guide, but probably more for the quality of the flora encountered than the climbing. In truth, the difficulties were fairly evenly distributed between rock and vegetation and there was mutual agreement that whilst the meet leader got the rock crux, Duncan got the grass crux. The rain fell throughout the ascent. Rucksacks grew in weight as they filled with water. Big boots slipped on wet rock, but proved useful for step kicking in the upper reaches. Character building is the euphemism.

Predictably, the clouds parted and the rain ceased as we wandered back down through the cwm towards Llanberis.

Back at the hut Rob and Robert seemed to have spent a cosy day. Vicky had enjoyed a rewarding day of extreme solo baby minding. Roisin had taken Luisa (on her first visit to Ty Powdwr) on a guided tour of the woods, cottage hospital, slate museum and Pete's, before locating Vicky and Kieran terrorising the ducks on Lynn Padarn and bumming a lift back. Virginia, meanwhile, had found fair weather on Anglesea for a walk along the coast and a visit to Dyke's folly. Big Andy had also arrived on a commission to photograph the hut for the new brochure.

The evening saw a swelling of numbers with the arrival of Joe and nephew Alex. But news also reached us of a despicable bootleg gathering back in the Peak District. A rebel band it seemed had enjoyed a much less character building assault on Stanage.

Sunday dawned in a much more promising vein; although it dawned far too early for Vicky who was on baby duty. Dry and brightening as the breakfast progressed, plans were made. Virginia had a date for a swim in Hatchmere, so departed early. Rob, Robert, Joe and Alex headed for the pass and Vicky headed for bed, suffering from Kieran induced sleep deficit. So Duncan and the meet leader wandered over to the Bus Stop Quarry for a couple of short routes and an encounter with a strange jumping spider.

After an hour or so's nap, Vicky was looking... well, a bit like death really, but ready to climb nevertheless. So Duncan was left holding the baby and we also headed up the pass to Carreg Wasted.

There we found Rob and Robert who'd just enjoyed a pleasant ascent of Crackstone Rib (S) and were eyeing up Shadow Wall (VS), which they also found to be an enjoyable affair. Joe was leading Crackstone Rib, baseball cap turned to the rear, presumably in an attempted to turn back the years.

First Test (VS) provided myself and Vicky with a fine first pitch up a steep wall, but the second pitch was found to be soaking wet. Undeterred, Vicky was pointed up the top pitch of Sun Valley (VS) which provided a fitting alternative; a fine crack followed by an entertaining overhang that seemed to put a smile back up her face. A quick descent and she was soon romping up the first pitch of Skylon (HS), that proved to be another enjoyable route. Meanwhile, Joe was blending in well on Wrinkle (VD), whilst Rob and Robert had found it to be tea o'clock.

An enjoyable meet. Thank you to those who came. Shame on the Stanage Six.

Colin.

Right, this is the meet you've been waiting for; God's own crag - Cloggy; Clogwyn Du'r Arddu; The Black Cliff.

It's been said that, 'Cloggy is a cliff on which all climbs are great'... Well, certainly, you'll find one of the finest collections of mountain routes in these isles. Just the place to tune up for the alpine meet.

The guidebook abounds with starred routes. Just a few personal recommendations - Shrike E1 5c, Lithrig HVS 5a (enjoy the pendulum), Curving Crack VS 4c, The Corner HVS 5a, The Boulder E1 5a, Longland's Climb VS 4c, White Slab E1 5b, Great Slab VS 4c. For a pint, I'll tell you the best way to do the lasso on White Slab.

I'll be at Ty Powdwr on Friday evening and aiming to be at the crag by 11.00am on Saturday. The usual approach is via the tourist track from Llanberis and the crag comes into full view as you crest the rise beyond the Halfway House, then keep right along the miners track past the old copper mines and continue along the path that contours round below the crag. It should take you about an hour [more practise for the Alps, Ed.].

My plan is to climb on Cloggy on the Saturday and another mountain crag on the Sunday (yet to be decided), but, weather permitting, those in full alpine training mode may fancy a bivi by Llyn Du'r Arddu, to get in two days on Cloggy.

Anyone fancying a big day out might consider a route on Llechog, followed by a route on Cloggy. Best approach is from Rydd Ddu. Gear up at the top of Llechog, descend and climb back to your sacks. Then over Snowdon. Gear up at the top of Cloggy. Descend and climb back up to your sacks. Walk out.

The sun will, of course, be cracking the slabs... except on Cloggy, because it's north facing, so only gets the sun in the early morning and the evening (perhaps another reason for a bivi).

This is a mountain crag, so be prepared for all that entails - multi-pitch routes, sometimes tricky route finding and it's share of loose rock. But also be prepared for some truely great routes. Most of the routes are VS and upwards, but there are some worth while routes at lower grades on the Far West Buttress; although they are still long mountaineering routes.

If the weather lets us down, then we have plenty more options from Ty Powdwr.

Look forward to seeing you. Give me a call if you need any more information.