Outdoor Midweek Meets at


Trevor Rocks (Llangollen)

Wed 2nd Aug, 2017

Improbable mid-week limestone sport-climbing near Llangollen


Report

Attendees: Duncan Zerafa & John Smallwood.

After a relatively quick and easy drive from Manchester, two climbers arrived for the further afield Welsh mid-week meet. A mixed forecast had perhaps put people off. It had rained very heavily just before arriving and the likely-hood of climbing anything seemed remote. Local climbers already there were abandoning their climbing, but the KMC duo felt it would be worth seeing if things improved. The crumbled walls of Castle Dinas Bran dominated the dramatic landscape looking along the rolling hills of the valley and made up for lost climbing time.

The trad climbing routes in the quarry at the eastern side were dripping wet and ruled out, however those sport routes which were on the western end were drying out quickly in the evening sun and breeze. So without the Clywd Limestone guide book several sport routes were started and some abandoned as the unknown  grades became apparent. After checking the UKClimbing website the routes climbed might have been K9 5a*, Hotdog 4a* and Chocolate Fudd 6a+. But really we didn't know for sure, it didn't matter though and we enjoyed limestone sport climbing.

Next week Cow's Mouth Quarry

Duncan Zerafa

Lawrencefield Quarry

Wed 7th Jun, 2017

Sheltered quarried grit near Hathersage


Report

Members present: Duncan Zerafa 

Guests present: Ben Kolb, Andy Pierce, John Smallwood.

A warm, breezy and dry evening held promise for the climbing tonight. Lawrencefield Quarry looks quite similar to Denham Quarry with a small pool, sheltered by birch trees and long towering routes shooting up the walls.

John had arrived the earliest and partnered up with new guest Ben under Gingerbread Slab. The first route he led was the long continuous crack of Snail Crack VD*, seconded by Ben. This was followed by Ben leading Tyrone VS 4c* a route with an abseil descent, described later as "sandy, weird and awkward" by John.

Meanwhile under the Great Harry wall area Duncan was climbing with guest Andy, who had climbed the previous week with the KMC at the Roaches. First was a lead of the 3 star route Three Tree Climb HS 4b. It was noticed the three trees though have long since departed. Andy made a fine lead of Excalibur VS 4c** at the Pool Wall area. Your author whilst belaying espied massive wood ants benignly scurrying around his feet and over the ropes. John was now leading the long and meandering Pulpit Groove VD 4a**. Which combined crack climbing, traversing and an exposed finish. Also being his favourite route of the evening.

The cloudy canopy above our heads was becoming bleak and rain drops idly menaced. But there was still time for one more route. Ben flew up the delicate crack of Meringue HVS 5a* making very short work of it. Duncan lead the fine, fingery and bold Gingerbread VS 4b*. No protection until about three quarters of the way up at around 8m, but a really great climb.

With the rain starting to now take effect on the rock, quick abseils down aided us as we adjourned to The Little John pub in Hathersage to vote for next weeks crag. Presented to the voters were the three options of Wilton and Anglezarke Quarries along with the natural crag of Dovestones Edge. Recent KMC trips to the aforementioned quarries produced a landslide victory for Dovestones Edge. A longish walk in but worth it on a early summer evening. 

Duncan Zerafa

The Roaches, Lower Tier

Wed 31st May, 2017


Report

Members : Duncan Zerafa, Helen Boothman.

Guests: John Smallwood, Patrizia Patz (Pati), Jim Duthie, Andy.

With the school holidays upon us this week, the late afternoon drive to The Roaches was pretty swift agreed the attendees. Those that had arrived, were greeted by a hot, cloudy evening and an idle breeze. Helen was climbing coincidentally with us tonight, getting back into climbing after a break.

The relative quiet of the crag meant you could pick and choose the finest routes at will. So with this in mind Pati and Jim had to have a crack at the classic of Valkyrie VS 4c. Jim had climbed it before, and so resolved to lead the first part allowing Pati to lead the airy second part. Pati thought the route was brilliant and exciting, even though she'd suffered from shaky legs before committing to the move from the big flake to the crease and onto the face. She later commented, "It's a lesson on rope management, which I don't have...".

Duncan on Jim's recommendation or sandbag depending on point of view, lead the Joe Brown and Don Whillans route, The Bulger VS 4c. Which was a particularly graunchy, awkward struggle. This was seconded by John and new guest Andy. Duncan followed this by a second of the bold Central Route VS 4a, initially leading it but backing off after rain left a serious chance of hitting the deck. John and new guest Andy teamed up to climb Right Hand Route HS 4c, Andy had got to lead his first route of the night. 

Meanwhile the  chatter below another Roaches classic The Sloth HVS 5a was beginning to come to a conclusion, the rain wouldn't affect the underside of a overhang. Jim had decided he would have a go after backing off in previous attempts. Jim lead the Don Whillans route brilliantly and tenaciously with support from Pati and Duncan beneath. Jim slowly built a web of slings under the roof before committing to a final attempt, which was touch and  go for a moment before finally pulling though the overhanging roof to the easier crack above. The sound of applause rose up from beneath. Pati seconded it excellently too, shouting "Amazing!" upon completion. Duncan also seconded but spent airtime back down to the start after struggling to release Jim's cam in the overhanging roof crux section. Pati then climbed up for a second time and retrieved the stuck cam with coolness, before finishing again with loud encouragement from below.

Under the murky, dark skies, at quite a late point in the evening, a quick decision was made for next week. The light and warm June evenings recommended Lawrencefield, near Hathersage.

Duncan Zerafa

Stockport Awesome Walls

Wed 7th Oct, 2015


The Roaches

Wed 22nd Jul, 2015

The best grit anywhere (JW)


Report

Despite a showery day the Roaches soon dried out for a golden evening, unfortunately the weather dissuaded many folk so the KMC was represented by myself and Evan. Three pitches of trad and a fair few boulder problems were ticked. Pex Hill was chosen for next week's venue.

James Williams

Dunnwood Park Boulder, Shaw

Wed 26th Mar, 2014


Report

Dave, Emily, Mark, Trish, Al

The small group just managed get an hours worth of bouldering in before the drizzle set in.


Bridgewater Bouldering

Wed 21st Dec, 2011


Report

Attended by Nick and Gareth, but only as ships that pass in the night. Some bouldering in conditions damp underfoot and underhand. Followed by dining and shopping?


Bridgewater Bouldering

Wed 15th Dec, 2010


Report

Bouldees: Gareth Williams, Dave Shotton, James Williams, Nick Adamson, Al Metelko, Dave Dillon.

2 venues, 2 traverses, 2 new routes 'Elephant Crack' and 'Gateaux Men'.


Stockport Wall

Wed 3rd Nov, 2010


Report

Present and chattering: Nick Adamson, Dave Dillon, Gareth Williams, Al Metelko, Mark Ashley.

Dark by 4.30. Clouds cleared about 6. Wonderful clear night, shooting stars. Boulder problems and solos (to keep moving). Prolonged voting in the local (to get warm again). Various illumination from mob phones to small box with candles inside.


Pamiagdluk Island!

Wed 28th Jul, 2004



Back to Current Midweek

If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-

Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."


Midweek meets are held at local crags, normally on Wednesday evenings, weather permitting. The "Next Crag" will be decided by those keen people who climb and vote on the night (usually in a pub nearest to the crag).

Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the travelling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some of us might still be there after its gone dark.

If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.





Midweek Climbing Venues


Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (12)
Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (12)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (4)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (1)
Cadshaw Rocks (4)
Castle Naze (16)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (13)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (9)
Denham Quarry (7)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (11)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (9)
Helsby (13)
Hen Cloud (1)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (38)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (3)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (3)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (9)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (12)
Ramshaw Rocks (7)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (3)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (14)
Shining Clough Rocks (3)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage Popular End (1)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (5)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (23)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (13)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (6)
Windgather (19)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (14)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Others (10)



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