Third time lucky...
Members: Dan O’Brien, Dave Wylie, Clay Conlon, Isabel Prause, Mark Ashley, Elliot Brown
Guests: John Smallwood, Andy Vine
Our journey did not take quite as long as the original Odyssey but after two roll-overs the KMC finally succumbed to the Siren call of Troy quarry. The weather was warm with a light breeze, perfect conditions for climbing and, more importantly, keeping the midges away.
Dave and Isabel were first to arrive, climbing Left Siamese Twin (s) and Stacked Deck (HS) before Mark joined them for Right Siamese Twin (S) and Cracked Wall (VS). Dan and Clay led Right Siamese Twin and Stacked Deck respectively and were then joined by Andy who followed Stacked Deck then led Troy Groove (VS) followed by Dan and Clay.
Elliot and John teamed up and proceeded to rocket round the crag, quickly ticking off Rapunzle (VS), Troy Groove and Jussy (HVS) before an abortive attempt on the steep pump-fest of Grans Wall (E1). Meanwhile Clay battled with Rapunzle with Dan struggling to second with a sore hand. Andy made it look easy then led Mucky Pups (VS or HVS depending on who you ask) to finish off the evening. John and Elliot continues their tour of the quarry with an ascent of Kieranless Corner (VS) which is now a few kilos of rock lighter after a large chunk fell off the top section as John seconded. They finished with a quick ascent of Siam Groove (VS).
In the pub the KMC were joined by a local Moped/Scooter enthusiasts group (very Quadrophenia) and amongst the smell of petrol and burning rubber managed a semi coherent vote for next weeks crag. Windgather and Cow’s Mouth Quarry were quickly eliminated in favour of Denham and the longest route name on grit.
Rollover for our annual odyssey to a classic grit quarry...
Rollover! Hoping for better weather next week...
Our annual Odyssey to a classic Lancashire Quarry...
It's got water, so apparently it's part of 'preparation for Lundy'
Members. Gary Thornhill, Isobel Prause, Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Mark Ashley, Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, Kieran. Duncan Zerafa.
Non Members. Jack Buczko, Matt Haisley,
Another fine evening at Troy with a good breeze keeping the M grade at 0 and sunshine on the main west walls as a twelve strong KMC turnout vied with a similar number of other locals for the excellent routes. Gary and Isobel were first at the crag and Gary led several routes including Stacked Deck HS 4b, Troy Groove VS 4c and Updraft Corner S 4a. Kieran completed much bouldering and traversing and appeared adept at misplacing Duncan’s phone at almost every possible opportunity, perhaps as Vicky wasn't there to keep an eye on both of them as she scampered up several routes on second.
Mark Ashley followed Dave Wylie up both of the twins then stacked deck, and both rounded the evening off following Gary up Updraft Corner, Vicky also followed several routes including Rapunzle VS 5a (led by Jim) and Gopher (VS 4c) led by Andy. Gopher is so named because you ‘’gopher’’ the top....Duncan ‘’wentoffroute’’. (This was according to Jack, grassing Duncan up in the pub, as he wasn’t there).
Meanwhile Jim led the tricky Sounder HVS 5a – a particulary tricky route which, seven years ago resulted in a ground fall and a bust finger for El Presidente. No such issues this time as Andy followed Jim with barely a grunt.
The Holden Arms served us ginger beer, crisps and real beer as we pondered next weeks venue.
It was unanimous: Hobson Moor.
Members present: Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Jared Kitchen, Emily Thompson, Emily Pitts. James Hall. Ding, Clay Conlon, Elliot Brown, Duncan Zerafa,
Guests: James Duthie, Patti Xariklia, Isobel Prause, Sarah Kendall, John Smallwood. Chris Kastavunis, Jack Buczko,
Seventeen members and guests attended at this ever popular Wednesday sunset spot in the Haslingdon hills on a very chilly evening, but at least that meant no midges!
As usual at Troy it was impossible to record all the ascents so just the leads are acknowledged here – and then a few have been missed so apologies in advance!
Emily P started her evening with a lead of left Siamese twin (S 4a) which over the course of the evening received attention from Jack and Andy and numerous seconds. Dave and Jack both lead the other twin. Mucky Pups (VS 4c) had leads from James Duthie whilst Patti got seriously cold on Rapunzle (VS 5a).
Elliot had a fine evening with leads of Siamese Arete (E1 5a), Siam Groove (VS 5a) and Rapunzle (VS 5a). Clay led Jussy HVS 5a and followed several other harder routes.
Duncan had yet another productive evening with several leads including Mucky pups (VS 4c), Troy Groove (VS 4b), Cracked Wall (VS 4c) and No Right Turn (VS 4c).
Jared made a spirited attempt on Pink Edge (E2 5b), one of the few three star routes in the quarry. James Hall made sterling work with the technical Dovetail (E1 5c) but was repulsed by Tess E1 5b – not sure if he had success...
By 8.30 most folk had seriously cold fingers with the dropping temperatures and so to the Holden arms for the usual banter and voting for next weeks crag. Pule Hill and Cows Mouth Quarry were two of the three suggestions but it was classic natural grit of Castle Naze which attracted the most votes. We head south next week!
I'm sure there will be no midges this week...
Members: Clay Conlon, Fiona Dixon, Emily Pitts, Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Duncan Zerafa, James Meakin, Mark Ashley,
Guests: Elliot Brown, Emily Thompson, Isobel Prause, Pati Xariklia, James Duthie, John Smallwood, Alaistair Philp, Jack Buzkco
Sixteen members and guests on a very hot, muggy late summers evening – so warm that the midges couldn’t really be bothered. Clay arrived before 3pm with Fiona and climbed a fine series of leads: Stacked Deck, Loose Living and Pillar Cracks with eventual success on the notorious sandbag of Sounder (HVS 5a). The rest of us drifted in after 5pm, anticipating that Dave would show up with the new guide in the hope that we might discover new hidden gems.....but no such luck....still plenty of the classics to go at.
Clay continued his evenings fine haul by following Fiona up Right Siamese twin then Andy up Cracked Wall (VS c) then finishing off with a lead of Mucky Pups (HVS 5a). Also leading Mucky Pups was Duncan – reaching a personal goal of climbing HVS in his first season of trad –well done fella! He was swiftly brought back to earth (not quite literally, fortunately), with an interesting looking (and sounding!) fall from the well travelled VS 5a Rapunzle which involved a painful straddling of the rope in just the wrong part of the anatomy. Jack failed to extract Duncan’s most wedged nut from deep in the crack, resulting in abseil time for the benighted pair – good job there was a full moon.
Pati and James Duthie made a formidable team ticking off several of the harder classics including Questionable Stability, Mucky Pups and Grane Wall. James Meakin led One way Street, Left siamese twin and followed Elliot up Stacked Deck
Right Siamese twin was also led by Andy, Emily and Elliot with Isobel, John, Emily Tink, Mark and Alaistair all following plus various other seconds on the other routes.
About twelve of us made the pub where there was much scepticism and mistrust of motive about the Presidents proposal of New Mills Torrs after the midge fest at Den Lane which he proposed and then failed to attend. An excellent sales pitch by the ever hungry (for food, not climbing) Emily Pitts led to Hobsons choice.
Sheltered Gritstone Quarry near Rawtenstall
Members: Dave Wylie, Dan O'Brien, Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford, Gareth Williams, Stuart Hurworth, Steve Graham, Mark Ashley, Ding, Colin Maddison, Clay Conlon.
Guests: Jo Cowley, George Williams, Oscar Pope, Hannah Godden + 2, Isabel Prause, John and Fiona, Steve Hill, Kieran Lee, Nikki Hamerton
It was definitely BBQ weather! This week saw an almost record turn-out for a Wednesday night meet. A total of 13 members and 12 guests took full advantage of the great weather and accessible climbing at Troy Quarry. Even the midges had the common decency to stay away…
Dave and Steve H climbed the excellent Severe Left Siamese Twin (the crux being avoiding the Right Twin), Stacked Deck (HS) and One Way Street (S); the latter being led on Steve’s shiny new gear and all routes followed by Jo. Oscar led Sounder (HVS) and Dovetail (his first E1 though strangely coming after his first E2 over the weekend…) both followed by Dan. Dan led Jussy (HVS) and Grane Wall (E1), the latter having been heavily chalked by a top-roping team earlier in the evening to dry out the early season seepage – it didn’t really work…
Mark led Right Siamese Twin (the crux being avoiding the Left Twin), Open Sesame (VD) which was very dirty and Stacked Deck, followed by Ding, Isabel and George. Fiona and Jon also climbed Left Siamese and Open Sesame. Gareth climbed Jussy and Mucky Pups (HVS) followed by Vicky while Duncan sprinted around the Quarry after Kieran who devoted most of his substantial energy to manufacturing stone tools and collecting mummified frogs… After leaving his mobile office in the car park, Colin climbed Sounder and the tricky Curlew (E1) which had some pretty bold climbing; followed by Stevie and Duncan. Jim and Andy climbed Rapunzel (VS), Stacked Deck, Left Siamese Twin, Troy Groove (VS) and Little Sneak (VS) - unfortunately the volume of routes resulted in them arriving late to the pub and almost missing the vote! Stuart and Clay climbed Overlooked Crack (HS) and Updraught Corner (S) and Troy Groove before also nearly missing the vote!
It was genuinely fantastic to see so many members and guests out enjoying the rock so early in the season! Please accept my apologies if I missed your ascent off this report – with nearly forty people at the crag it was pretty tough to keep track!
Luckily (certainly for the unsuspecting locals in the Holden Arms) there was some attrition between the crag and the pub. This did, leave us with an even number which led to some discussions on various methods for breaking a deadlock. Surprisingly, Windgather fell in the first round of voting leaving a straight run-off between Cadshaw Rocks and Alderman which Cadshaw won by a significant margin (indeed even some Chew Valley locals voted for it!)
So Cadshaw next week. Bring head torch and midge repellent and if someone can order the same weather we had yesterday that would be grand. Thanks!
One of the best and most well used Lancs Quarry venues with good views and a sunset.
Members: Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Colin Maddison, Phil Hartwell, Stevie Graham, Helen Boothman, Duncan Lee, Dan O'Brien, Paul Evans (on photography duty), Al Metelko (twilight appearance).
Guests: Matt Harrigan, Beth 'filth' Thomas, Aleksandra Pawlik, Jo Perry
Despite the earlier drizzle ii was a fine, if cold, evening at Troy with an excellent early showing of fourteen keen members and guests.
Dave and Aleks teamed up; Dave leading Aleks up a One Way Street (S 4a) and Stacked Deck (HS 4b); Aleks led Right Siamese Twin. Meanwhile Beth led Helen up Stacked Deck then surprised Bob the Gob (alledgely VS 4c but a notorious sandbag) with her filth, eventually giving up and switching to Mucky Pups (HVS 5a); Helen made short work of Rapunzle (VS 5a) then led one of the best routes in the quarrey - Grane Wall (E1 5b)
After a session of soloing, Duncan was persuaded to tie on with Colin an the pair completed Sounder (HVS 5a), Dovetail (E1 5b) and a variation on Jussy ((HVS 5b). Phil, Andy and Matt made another team - Phil leading Stacked Deck, Matt Mucky Pups and Right Siamese - Andy Cracked Wall (VS 4c), The final team of Dan, Stevie and Jo also climbed Right Siamese and Jussy (Dan) and Stacked Deck and Rapunzle (Steve).
Paul was on photography duty for the new Lancs Guidebook. There is a rumour going round that it might be published sometime before the end of the decade after next.......
Voting was held in the fine hostelry of the Holden Arms with Alderman. Blackstone edge, Wilton 1. Ouzels nest on the table. Voting was close but Blackstone Edge won out - back to natural grit!
A good turnout on a sunny evening but only 5 went to the pub and decide on next weeks venue. Partial list of attendees (please email the club with anyone missing): Ian, Dan, Mirella, Stuart, Al, DaveW, Elliott, Meirion, James, Duncan, Anisa, Bron and least another two.
Rain rain rain!
Easy access ancient Greek venue off the M66. Excellent Routes. Sunsets. 5 minute walk in.
No reports of daring do at the quarry, so it rolls over to next week.
Dave W, Alex, Elliot, Polly, Duncan L, Al M and Max the man from Colne.
A dry cool evening saw a good number of routes led/soloed on the south wall. Not enough people were up for the pub so Wilton 3 was chosen for next week, if the shooting club is there then its Wilton 1.
Members: Rob Clark, Jim Symon, John Cox, Peter McNulty, Andy Stratford, Dave Wylie, Steve Graham, Duncan Lee, Gareth Williams, Colin Maddison
Guests: Dan Metcalfe
Troy lived up to its reputation for sunshine and, as last year, saw an excellent midweek turnout with 11 members & guests taking turns swopping leads on the walls.
Jim & Rob were at the back end of a full on day having done several routes at a pretty green Anglezarke before even arriving at Troy.
A few of the leads are recorded below - apologies in advance for what's missing - there was a lot done!
Especially big welcome to first time Guest Dan Metcalfe who showed solid leading on Rapunzle (VS 5a), also led by Rob. Gareth worked the hardest route of the night 'Revenge of the Bendy Ents' (E3 5c) followed by Andy. Little Sneak (VS 4c) had attention from John Cox & Jim Symon. Bob the Gob (VS 4c) was thrutched, jammed and grunted on lead by Rob, Andy & Peter. Steve Graham, Peter & Jim all saw to Mucky Pups (HVS 5a). Colin opted for an easy time leading Dovetail (E1 5b) and Deep Throat (HVS 5b)!! Jussy (HVS 5b) proved a straightforward enough bridging exercise for Jim and Andy. Duncan roamed the quarry soloing and cleaning 'a couple of new lines'....and then led them both....initial gradings at HS & E1.
Special mention has to go to John Cox, who on the night of his actual 'Paul McCartney' birthday was having a great night leading routes to VS.
Two crags were subject to the vote in the Holden Arms with Den lane easily beating Alderman Rocks.
Sunny, well worn Lancs venue with a good selection of routes
Rained off. Rolled over to May 16th
*** Changed Location ***
Greeks Present: James Williams, Carolyn Mills, Nick Adamson, Dave Shotton, Frazer, Dave Wylie, Peter McNulty, Blaise Harvey, Andy Stratford, Oi Ding Koy, Mark Asley, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Dave Dillon, Jim Symon.
No falls, submittions, head torches etc. Good clean fun. Round Barn Quarry lives for another day.
Present and correct at Troy Quarry : Andy Stratford, Dave Bertalot, Al Metelko, Mark Ashley, Chris Williams, Carolyn Mills, James Williams, Keith McDonald, Dave Dillon.
Climbs from Grane Wall on the left over to Little Sneak on the right with most in between. A few perfectionist accents. Some acrobatic. Some very illuminating and some by touch alone. Interesting voting in the pub, with Den Lane narrowly beating Blackpool Tower (including complimentary B&B in Lancaster).
Attednees: Dave Dillon, Peter McNulty, Dave Wylie, Jane Atkinson, Trish Cranston, Al Metelko, Jo and Mark Furniss, James and Kasia Hoyle, Alex Cropper, Tom Makin, Mike Freeman, David Russell, Chris Williams.
Following two weeks of awful Wednesday weather (Hurricane Bill on August 26th and Tropical Storm Danny on September 2nd) the evening of the 9th turned out to be superb. Clear skies, sunshine and only a very light breeze. All the usual classic Troy routes were climbed, (the "Siamese Twins", "Overlooked Crack", "Rapunzle", etc., etc.). Jane did her second ever outdoor lead, which was cleanly up "Open Sesame". Well done! Climbing continued until it was going dark, then most of the team snuck into the local pub for a swift drink and the debate about where to go next week.
A huge turnout for this midweek meet:
Duncan Lee, Andy Grantham, Kasia Hoyle, Tom Makin, Rachel Flynn, Sarah Natali, Mike Reading, Mark Ashley, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Dave Wylie, Steve Hill, Zubber Nabi, Alec Blower, Bob Kelly, Andrew Ketley, Rachel Ketley, Vanja Celebicic, Pete Kossowski.
Given that the Mountaineering Club of Bury were also having an evening meet at Troy, things got quite busy! The weather was excellent, being dry and fairly warm, with just a passing breeze to cool things down at one point. Much better than the somewhat abortive attempt for a meet here back in January. Many of the quarry's excellent routes were climbed repeatedly (one route twice by the same team, in at least one case...). Everyone seemed to have a great time, ticking off climbs from their little lists or pushing up their leading grades (well done Kasia!).
The pub afterwards was the "Duke Of Wellington", just a couple of hundred yards from the quarry car park.
James and Duncan arrived at the crag at the same time as the rain, but did Left Siamese twin regardless. After that Duncan headed home whilst James went to MCC to meet up with all the sensible folk. A quick chat in a rain lashed car park resulted in a unanimous vote for a return to Hobson Moor Quarry for the next venue.
Nobody made it out to the quarry on December 17th, so the venue has been carried forward into 2009!
A superb fine evening at Troy Quarry, with Duncan, Vicky, Al, Mark, Dave W., Trish, James, Andy, Mike, Sean and Gary (not in a suit this time!) turning out for the meet. All the usual routes were climbed, including: "Sounder", "Left Siamese Twin", "Right Siamese Twin", "Rapunzle", "Stacked Deck", "Overlooked Crack" (nice lead, Trish!), Duncan's route "Vicky of Tadcaster" "Trojan Horse", etc., etc. The local Mountain Rescue Team were also out, practicing their rescue techniques at the other side of the quarry. At least we hope that this really was a training session, as the screams from their "casualty" seemed very realistic... A sub-group continued climbing till after sunset. Al observed that there was enough moonlight to keep climbing all night, but the team finally headed off to the pub (the "Robin Hood" in Haslinden) for the usual post-escalade drink and selection of the crag for next week.
A much better turnout this week, with Dave W., Al, Andy G., Mark A., Gary, Vicky, Duncan, Rachel, Jane and even the Sun(!!) all putting in an appearance. Routes climbed included: "Open Sesame", "Cracked Wall", "One Way Street", "Rapunzle", "Stacked Deck", "Left Siamese Twin", "Right Siamese Twin", etc., etc. Not everyone stayed the full course, though. Duncan and Vicky had to go home to pack for the Alps trip, then the Webmaster mumbled excuses about being to tired and also left early. By the end of the evening, only three people ended up in the Pub to select the crag for the following week.
An excellent turnout for the first evening meet of the year. Dave Dillon, Scott Sadler, Duncan Lee, Dave Wylie, Al Metelko, Mark Ashley, Trish Cranston, Karen Kennedy, Lucy, Socks the dog, Anna Neubert, John Cox, Roger Daley and about half a dozen others (sorry, I don't have a full list!) put in an appearance. The usual routes - "One Way Street", "Rapunzle", "Stacked Deck", "Left Siamese Twin", "Right Siamese Twin", etc. all saw plenty of traffic. Climbing continued until well after sunset, then most people headed off to the pub (once we found one that wasn't already packed).
Back to Current Midweek
More than 15 people turned up at Troy Quarry for this evening meet, including: Scott Sadler, Dave Dillon, Trish Cranston, Karen, Rob Allen, Vicky Alderton, Duncan Lee, Lester Payne, Mark Ashley, Roger Daley, John Cox, Dan O'Brien and Dave Wylie. Many quality routes were ticked, including both Siamese Twins and the Arête; Overlooked Crack (where John Cox demonstrated how to make a perfect, spectacular, leader fall); One Way Street, Open Sesame, etc., etc. A superb evening, followed by a quick drink in Scott's local, the Griffin Inn in Haslingden.