Natural Lancashire gritstone with plenty of well protected routes
Members: Elliott Brown, Clay Conlon, Isabel Prause, Dave Wylie, Ben Slater, Mark Ashley,
Guests: Matt Mitchell, Adam McCudden, Jed Farmer, John Smallwoood, Erfan Khatibi and a lovely full set of tricams.
Adam, Jed and Isabel were top roping Druid's Direct (E3 6a) as I arrived at the crag, seemed to have a very slippery start. Clay and myself went off to explore the quarry just before the crag and found a nice long route, Green Slab (VS 4c**) to be had. Ben and Dave teamed up, with Matt joining up for a climb or two, which inclded Pagan Wall (S 4a) and Split Block Crack (HS 4b*). John and Isabel teamed up on various routes to top rope, Pagan's Direct (HVS 5b**) being one of them I believe. Adam and Jed, Mark and Erfan looked to have climbed routes between The Staircase and West Slab Direct.
Towards the end of the evening we were viciously attacked by midges (M7), which caused a hurried retreat back to the cars. All the while, trying to take name and work out what climbs were being gestured at for the report. The next meet was hurriely suggested as Witches Quarry, which seemed to please those retreating from the crag (M10 at this point).
Routes that were defninitly (maybe) climbed by names above:
Central Chimney (VD), The Staircase (M), Split Block Crack (HS 4b*), Central Crack (VD*), Overhand Crack (VD*), Pagan Wall (S 4a), Pagan's Direct (HVS 5b**), Central Wall (HS 4b**)
Gritstone cragging off the Devil's Road...
Members: Dan O'Brien, Gareth Williams, Stevie Graham, Andy Stratford, James Meakin, Clay Conlon
Guests: John Evans, Fiona Dixon, Isabel Prause, Jo Cowley, Duncan Zerafa.
The last time your correspondent visited Cadshaw Rocks was literally half-a-lifetime ago. My 16-year-old self (without a car obviously) was forced to get the train and hike from Entwistle and my only real memories of the day were getting an ass-kicking trying to stand on a sloping ledge and then getting rained off and heading to the pub. Despite a flurry of snow in the afternoon the KMC arrived at the crag in clear cool conditions.
Which lasted about five-minutes.
Before we could even get our harnesses on, a wall of hail and snow swept in from the west and settled on us. Even Andy’s prediction that “hailstones won’t wet the rock as they just roll-off” was proved false. He later clarified that only “dry hailstones” roll off the rock. Frozen Carbon-Dioxide I assume… rare in Lancashire…
As the hail and snow eased the team split up in search of dry rock. In the early stages there was not much of this about but that did not stop Steve, dogged in his enthusiasm climbed Crack and Wall (S) followed by Andy and Duncan (on his first outdoor climb since the Ben in January!). He also climbed Column Climb (D) and Central Crack (VD) again followed by Duncan. Andy climbed Column Climb followed by Clay and Jo. He and Jo then followed Clay up a hybrid of Pagan Wall (S) and Corner Chimney (D). John led Overhang Crack (VD) followed by Fiona, who then led a mixture of East Face Climb and Column Climb.
Gareth led a very we Central Climb (HS) fwhich despite not really having anything to recommend it somehow gets 2-stars in Rockfax… As the rock dried out Dan attempted Druids Face (E2). After struggling on the first half, necessarily eliminating most of the good holds to avoid the extreme polish, Dan reached the half-height gear but was unable to muster the moral fibre to go more than one move higher. One for another day perhaps. James, climbing with two colleagues whose names your correspondent failed to record, “made a hash of Overhanging Crack and Split Block Crack”. I suppose one is often ones own harshest critic! As the light faded the snow returned (seriously, it’s late April! I got snowed on three times today?!) and the team departed for The Chetham Arms in Chapeltown.
In the pub, armed with some gourmet pork scratchings, the nominations were Alderman, Deeply Vale, Anglezarke and Windgather. In the first round, Windgather was clearly in front with the remaining crags all tied. So began a series of negative votes which resulted, much to your correspondents confusion, in the elimination of Deeply Vale. In the second round, mercifully, Anglezarke was eliminated without requiring any shenanigans leaving Windgather and Alderman in the run-off. Windgather prevailed so its Whalley Bridge next week for some of the friendliest gritstone in the Peak District. Always a popular choice and one not to miss. Assuming we don’t have to approach on skis…
Quite polished but plenty of easy routes Diff to HS, and a classic E2.
Members: Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Emily Pitts, Nick Adamson, Mark Ashley, Laura Collier
Guests: Stuart Hurworth, Jasmine Pitts, Michaela Schaeller, Helen Boothman
Special side access panels in the adidas test jacket allowed harder climbing meanwhile the man with one shoe still managed overhangs. Druids and Pagans repelled all borders. Wee beasties appeared along with headtorches and a moonlit walk out.
In the Cross Guns Castle Naze was a clear winner over Pots and Pans...so back to the south next week.
Another fine evening on the rock. Dave Wylie, Roger Daley, Karen Kennedy and Al Metelko turned out to this small, but perfectly formed, crag. Dave arrived early and soloed about half a dozen easy (up to V-Diff) routes before the others arrived. Al also did loads of soloing. Roger and Dave and Karen roped up to do a trio of severes. The routes included: "The Staircase" (Mod) "Pagan Wall" (Severe, 4a) "Corner Chimney" (Diff) "Crack and Wall" (Severe, 4a) "Oak Tree Chimney" (V-Diff) "Split Block Climb" (Severe, 4a) "Curving Crack" (Diff) "East Chimney" (Mod) "West Buttress - Ordinary" (Diff) The rock was dry, perhaps a little polished in places but that wasn't a big problem. A few of the other routes had a some suspect rock or vegetation near the top, but these could always be gardened or avoided! All in all, an excellent little crag.