Outdoor Midweek Meets at Cadshaw Rocks

Cadshaw Rocks

Wed 6th Jun, 2018

Natural Lancashire gritstone with plenty of well protected routes


Members: Elliott Brown, Clay Conlon, Isabel Prause, Dave Wylie, Ben Slater, Mark Ashley, 

Guests: Matt Mitchell, Adam McCudden, Jed Farmer, John Smallwoood, Erfan Khatibi and a lovely full set of tricams. 

Adam, Jed and Isabel were top roping Druid's Direct (E3 6a) as I arrived at the crag, seemed to have a very slippery start. Clay and myself went off to explore the quarry just before the crag and found a nice long route, Green Slab (VS 4c**) to be had. Ben and Dave teamed up, with Matt joining up for a climb or two, which inclded Pagan Wall (S 4a) and Split Block Crack (HS 4b*). John and Isabel teamed up on various routes to top rope, Pagan's Direct (HVS 5b**) being one of them I believe. Adam and Jed, Mark and Erfan looked to have climbed routes between The Staircase and West Slab Direct.

Towards the end of the evening we were viciously attacked by midges (M7), which caused a hurried retreat back to the cars. All the while, trying to take name and work out what climbs were being gestured at for the report. The next meet was hurriely suggested as Witches Quarry, which seemed to please those retreating from the crag (M10 at this point).

Routes that were defninitly (maybe) climbed by names above:

Central Chimney (VD), The Staircase (M), Split Block Crack (HS 4b*), Central Crack (VD*), Overhand Crack (VD*), Pagan Wall (S 4a), Pagan's Direct (HVS 5b**), Central Wall (HS 4b**)

Elliott Brown

Cadshaw Rocks

Wed 27th Apr, 2016

Gritstone cragging off the Devil's Road...


Members: Dan O'Brien, Gareth Williams, Stevie Graham, Andy Stratford, James Meakin, Clay Conlon

Guests: John Evans, Fiona Dixon, Isabel Prause, Jo Cowley, Duncan Zerafa.

The last time your correspondent visited Cadshaw Rocks was literally half-a-lifetime ago.  My 16-year-old self (without a car obviously) was forced to get the train and hike from Entwistle and my only real memories of the day were getting an ass-kicking  trying to stand on a sloping ledge and then getting rained off and heading to the pub.  Despite a flurry of snow in the afternoon the KMC arrived at the crag in clear cool conditions.  

Which lasted about five-minutes.

Before we could even get our harnesses on, a wall of hail and snow swept in from the west and settled on us.  Even Andy’s prediction that “hailstones won’t wet the rock as they just roll-off” was proved false.  He later clarified that only “dry hailstones” roll off the rock.  Frozen Carbon-Dioxide I assume… rare in Lancashire…

As the hail and snow eased the team split up in search of dry rock.  In the early stages there was not much of this about but that did not stop Steve, dogged in his enthusiasm climbed Crack and Wall (S) followed by Andy and Duncan (on his first outdoor climb since the Ben in January!).  He also climbed Column Climb (D) and Central Crack (VD) again followed by Duncan.  Andy climbed Column Climb followed by Clay and Jo.  He and Jo then followed Clay up a hybrid of Pagan Wall (S) and Corner Chimney (D).  John led Overhang Crack (VD) followed by Fiona, who then led a mixture of East Face Climb and Column Climb.

Gareth led a very we Central Climb (HS) fwhich despite not really having anything to recommend it somehow gets 2-stars in Rockfax…  As the rock dried out Dan attempted Druids Face (E2).  After struggling on the first half, necessarily eliminating most of the good holds to avoid the extreme polish, Dan reached the half-height gear but was unable to muster the moral fibre to go more than one move higher.  One for another day perhaps.  James, climbing with two colleagues whose names your correspondent failed to record, “made a hash of Overhanging Crack and Split Block Crack”.  I suppose one is often ones own harshest critic!  As the light faded the snow returned (seriously, it’s late April! I got snowed on three times today?!) and the team departed for The Chetham Arms in Chapeltown.

In the pub, armed with some gourmet pork scratchings, the nominations were Alderman, Deeply Vale, Anglezarke and Windgather.  In the first round, Windgather was clearly in front with the remaining crags all tied.  So began a series of negative votes which resulted, much to your correspondents confusion, in the elimination of Deeply Vale.  In the second round, mercifully, Anglezarke was eliminated without requiring any shenanigans leaving Windgather and Alderman in the run-off.  Windgather prevailed so its Whalley Bridge next week for some of the friendliest gritstone in the Peak District.  Always a popular choice and one not to miss.  Assuming we don’t have to approach on skis…

Daniel O'Brien

Cadshaw Rocks

Wed 21st Aug, 2013

Quite polished but plenty of easy routes Diff to HS, and a classic E2.


Members: Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Emily Pitts, Nick Adamson, Mark Ashley, Laura Collier

Guests: Stuart Hurworth, Jasmine Pitts, Michaela Schaeller, Helen Boothman

Special side access panels in the adidas test jacket allowed harder climbing meanwhile the man with one shoe still managed overhangs. Druids and Pagans repelled all borders. Wee beasties appeared along with headtorches and a moonlit walk out.

In the Cross Guns Castle Naze was a clear winner over Pots and Pans...so back to the south next week.

Cadshaw Castle Rocks

Wed 13th Sep, 2006


Another fine evening on the rock. Dave Wylie, Roger Daley, Karen Kennedy and Al Metelko turned out to this small, but perfectly formed, crag. Dave arrived early and soloed about half a dozen easy (up to V-Diff) routes before the others arrived. Al also did loads of soloing. Roger and Dave and Karen roped up to do a trio of severes. The routes included: "The Staircase" (Mod) "Pagan Wall" (Severe, 4a) "Corner Chimney" (Diff) "Crack and Wall" (Severe, 4a) "Oak Tree Chimney" (V-Diff) "Split Block Climb" (Severe, 4a) "Curving Crack" (Diff) "East Chimney" (Mod) "West Buttress - Ordinary" (Diff) The rock was dry, perhaps a little polished in places but that wasn't a big problem. A few of the other routes had a some suspect rock or vegetation near the top, but these could always be gardened or avoided! All in all, an excellent little crag.

Cadshaw Castle Rocks

Wed 13th Aug, 2003

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If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-

Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

Midweek meets are held at local crags, normally on Wednesday evenings, weather permitting. The "Next Crag" will be decided by those keen people who climb and vote on the night (usually in a pub nearest to the crag).

Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the travelling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some of us might still be there after its gone dark.

If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.

Midweek Climbing Venues

Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (13)
Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (13)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (5)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (1)
Cadshaw Rocks (5)
Castle Naze (17)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (13)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (11)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (12)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (9)
Helsby (13)
Hen Cloud (2)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (40)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (4)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (3)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (9)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (13)
Ramshaw Rocks (7)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (4)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (15)
Shining Clough Rocks (3)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage Popular End (1)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (5)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (26)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (16)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (6)
Windgather (20)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (15)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Others (11)

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