Classic sheltered Lancashire quarry
Members: Dave Wylie, Duncan Zerafa, Steve Graham, Tim Howarth, Ben Slater, Jared Kitchen, Dan O’Brien, Elliot Brown, Emily Pitts
Guests: Isabel Prause, Patti Xariklia, Jack Buczko, Caro C, Alastair Philp, John Smallwood, Chris Kastavunis
From a visit around a decade ago, your correspondent remembered Anglezarke Quarry as a midge infested rat hole… Luckily, for this visit, the rats were nowhere to be found but the midges were in fine fettle. We had a great turnout of 16 members and guests and some fine weather which allowed plenty of climbing.
There were many original ascents of Aldred's Original (VD) including Jack, Dave and Alastair all followed by multiple enthusiastic seconds. Dave then went on the lead Whittaker's Original (HS 4a). Meanwhile, Emily led Meanwhile (S) because Dave was climbing Because (HS) with a little jaunt into the shrubbery, which Caro then seconded.
Duncan managed to wedge in a lead of Wedge (HS 4b) followed by Isobel and Caro - with a supporting role from Dave W removing a particularly stuck nut. Dan also led followed by Tim and John. Patti led Metamorphosis, a rather bold VS also led by Ben. Patti was followed by Dan and Tim. Elliot cruised up Terra Cotta (HVS) followed by Jared. Dan also climbed Terra Cotta with much less poise, followed by Tim (on his first KMC midweek meet – surprising for a full member). Patti followed and made it look so easy Tim suggested she should be made to climb it again.
Steve had a nightmare on Nightmare (VS 4b) seconded by Ben and Emily. Tim had less of a nightmare but gained much more airtime on the same route, caught and followed by Dan. Elliott and Jared spent some time working Fingertip Control (E4) which they described variously as “brutal” and a “monster”.
Finally, Jared led First Finale (E1) followed by Elliott and Patti.
Happy days. The midges that came out to welcome us at first eventually overcame our enthusiasm and as the light faded we retreated to the pub. With a number of new members it fell to your corespondent to explain the voting rules after which we had four choices. Cow’s Mouth was first to fall after a three way tie for last place resulted in a run-off. Next to go was Castle Naze followed by Alderman leaving Troy Quarry as the winner.
Emily and Dan
2 minute walk in, plenty to go at, easy motorway access. ''And it has a Z in it''.... (Mirella)
Anglezarke does have a Z in it.....lots of midgez.....lots of blackberriez....and lots of routes that don't begin with Z, some of which we climbed.......all twelve of us.....except Mirella who despite there being a Z in it didn't turn up!
Members: Helen Boothman. Gareth Williams, Andy Stratford. Dave Wylie.
Guests: Ben Slater, Matt Harrigan. Mark Haworth, Hannah Hughes, Nina Rithalia, Doug Arnold, Andrew Ault, James Meakin
Ben Slater managed an excellent lead of nightmare at VS 4b and some others.
Mark led up Aldred's Original (V Diff) and Meanwhile (S4a)
Matt executed a fine lead on Wedge (HS 4b) then wandered over to the Golden Tower with Andy S - Andy was intent on Samarkand but he just couldn't get started....again.....well maybe one day. Matt led up the fine and - we think - under-rated 'The Finger' at VS 5a. this really is an excellent route, great gear all the way, some slab moves, an overhang then a superb steep jamming crack to finish. Highly recommended.
Doug experienced a Metamorphasis (VS 4c) then was wished Many Happy Returns (HVS 5a).
Meanwhile, up in the E numbers.....Helen had a fine lead of First Finale (E1 5b), albeit after a bit of a rest followed by up by Gareth. They also wandered over to the Golden Tower where Gareth coolly despatched the classic of the quarry at E2 5c in very good style. Helen made a valiant effort to second it and could still feel it in her arms an hour later in the pub....and so to the vote.....New Mills Torrs vs Wilton 1 Vs Den Lane.....with Den Lane a clear winner....get your tricams out for the classic Three Notch Slab!
In attendance: Dave Wylie, Max Bretherton, Mark Ashley, Elliot Brown, Andy Whaley, Steve Hill, Oi Ding Koy, Clare Hodgson, Mark Pilling, Simon Robertshaw, Clay.
There in the pit: Dave, Gareth, Ozcan, Polly.
Plenty of fun and siege tactics on Elaine and The Golden Tower. Intermittent soloing, breeze, whistling, midges, sack hauling, bogs, and faint drizzle.
Metamorphosis and Nightmare were climbed with head torch (winter training). Millstone pub and votes at 10:45.
Members: Andy Stratford, Gareth Williams, Carolyn Mills, James Williams, Peter McNulty. Guests: NIck Adamson, Neil Britton, Jack Buczko, Paul 'mars bar' Marsden, John Jeffries, Ozcan Yanik
A fine evening with a huge turnout of guests and new faces to compliment the usual suspects. (As an alternative to the cryptic Dillon style meet report here is an old fashioned one with a list of what people did!)
Metamorphosis(VS 4c) had leads from Andy, Neil and Carolyn and seconded by Nick, Paul, Ozcan and Gareth. Wedge (HS 4b) led by Neil and Nick and seconded by Jack and Ozcan. Nightmare Crack(VS 4b) led by Neil and seconded by Jack. Birthday Crack (VS 4c) led by Andy and Neil and seconded by Paul and Jack. Glister Wall (S 4a) led by Paul seconded by Andy. Many Happy Returns (HVS 5a) led Gareth seconded by Carolyn. Terror Cotta (HVS 5a) led by Gareth seconded by Carolyn. First Finale led by Carolyn, seconded by Gareth. Edipol! (HS 4b) led by James seconded by Nick. Whitakers original (HS 4a) led by nick seconded by Ozcan. Andy attempted Samarkand (VS 4c) but was beaten off by the 'traditional' start.
The midges saw us off and we retreated to the lucianos for voting. Witches Quarry beating Tegs Nose by a Nose. Car sharing recomended as parking is limited, check the scribble board Tuesday.
Damp conditions in Manchester didn't deter the trio in attendance: Carolyn Mills, Nick Adamson, Gareth Williams.
Some slimy leading: Wedge (HS 4b), Nightmare (VS 4b), Whittaker's Original (HS 4a), Alldred's Original (VDiff). The latter climbed by headtorch carrying packs, as a more attractive exit to the quarry than reversing the descent scramble.
Lighter evenings now: hoping more members will come out as the light (and weather?) improves.
Ten people, including another new prospective member, turned up at Anglezarke for a fine evening of climbing: Chris Williams, Gareth Williams, Katharine Bagshaw, Bob Kelly, Al Metelko, Dave Wylie, Andy Grantham, Mark Ashley, Carolyn Mills, Nick.
Most of the climbing were done on the "Walts Wall" and the "Lower Walls" next to the easy scramble down from the road. One team did venture through the jungle swamps to the other side of the quarry, though. Routes included "Whittakers Original", "Wedge", the eponymous "Nightmare" "Meanwhile" and "Alldreds Original"
Another very well attended evening climbing meet. Good weather and, for a change at this location, no problems with midges! Andy Grantham, James & Kasia Hoyle, Tom Makin, Sarah Natali, Mark Ashley, Al Metelko, Trish Cranston, Dave Wylie, Matt Danby, Zubber Nabi, Alec Blower, Bob Kelly, Vanja Celebicic, Pete Kossowski, Christine Stark, Matthew Wilkinson, Carl Pulley and Mark Morris all turned up. The routes included: Alldred's Original (V-Diff) Whittaker's Original (HS, 4a) Meanwhile (S, 4a) Side Step (HS, 4b) Wedge (HS, 4a) Nightmare (VS, 4b) Metamorphosis (VS, 4c) Terror Cotta (HVS, 5a) etc., etc. Hard climber Tom, with a feather in his cap (well, in his helmet) also took Kasia up an E1, 5b route (sorry, I didn't catch its name) - which she "flew up". We'd better keep an eye on our Mrs Hoyle, she'll be leading the E grades soon... The evening almost turned into a "Bring a Colleague Climbing" event: with Dave dragging along Mr Danby from Zen Internet, James' headmaster attending and two people from Bob's work stopping by (though they didn't climb, so don't appear in the list). The pub was the "Millstone", chosen (apparently) because they sell crisps?!
A good turnout this evening, including:
Dave D., Roger Daley, Midge, Joanne, Al, Mark, Gordon, Andy, Duncan, Beaker, Vicky, Dave W., Loretta and Ann.
The weather was cloudy but there was no real rain, only a mere hint of moisture in the air at one point. Some people stuck to the few available lower grade climbs but others, in one case sustained by a "Traditional Lancashire diet of Cheese and Nails", tackled a selection of the harder routes. The grading of some of the routes was questioned, such as First Finale (allegedly E2, 5c) and Plain Bob (allegedly S, 4a), with the former being easier than the guidebook said and the latter being rather devoid of protection for a mere Severe! Plenty of other routes gave good entertainment; Edipol! (HS, 4b), Nightmare (VS, 4b), Metamorphosis (VS, 4c), plus several of the shorter, easier climbs.
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Another well attended evening meet, on a warm sunny evening. Al Metelko, James Richardson, Dave Wylie, Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, Scott Sadler, John Cox, Roger Daley, Dave Dillon and several others came along to enjoy the delights of the quarry. So did the midges!