Outdoor Midweek Meets at Woodhouse Scar


Woodhouse Scar

Wed 29th Apr, 2015

Look out Halifax!


Report

Members – Dan O’Brien, Emily Pitts, Gareth Wiliams, Helen Boothman, Dave Wylie, Laura Collier

Guests – Aleksandra Pawlik

Absent Wanderer – Andy Stratford…

With the M62 (and thus Yorkshire) closed, the straightforward jaunt to Woodhouse Scar in Halifax became a 3hr nightmare for some of the KMC Wednesday night regulars.  However, once the team arrived at the crag, they were greeted by warm sunshine and clean, roadside gritstone.  

Helen led the delicate and bold arete of Spigilo (HVS) ably followed by Dave.  Helen then kindly provided a toprope for Alex, Laura and Emily to have a go at the technical and reachy Parete (HVS).  Much cursing ensued after Dan used all 6ft of natural advantage to reach past the crux.  Laura led a HVD with a bold start - typical Yorkshire!

Gareth attempted Clingen (E2), a seriously bold (E3 in any other ‘shire…) roof climb with a shocking landing.  The guidebook suggested that placing gear behind the flakes was pointless as it would fail in the event of a fall and just ruin the route by removing a crucial hold.  Pads definitely required!  Alas, the route resisted his efforts and eventually Gareth came to his senses and joined the rest of us bouldering.

Woodhouse is a fantastic local bouldering venue with some excellent problems in the mid grades (4, 5, 6ish) and a number were ascended by the KMC including Radium Arete.

Night fell and the team decamped to the pub.  In the spirit of the general election there were five nominations, none of which particularly appealed.  After the loss of Crowden Quarry and some crumbly horror-show in Leicestershire suggested by Gareth we were left with Brimham Rocks and Dovestones.  Four rounds of voting later, the meet was on the verge of a constitutional crisis as no stable coalition could be found.  Luckily, the day was saved when some Brimham turncoats joined the Dovestones camp.  Chew valley sunsets and classic moorland grit is on the menu for next week.

Until then...

P.S. Upon arriving home I noticed a scribble post from Andy saying that he'd given up and gone home after two hours stuck in traffic.  He gets an honourable mention though not as honourable as the one he would've got if he'd turned up!

 

Daniel O'Brien

Woodhouse Scar

Wed 6th Aug, 2014

2 minute walk in to this Yorkshire Grit venue in Halifax. Bouldering as well.


Report

Members – Dan O’Brien, Mark Ashley, Dave Wylie, Helen Boothman, Stuart Hurworth, Simon Robertshaw

Guests - Mirella de Jonge, Ben Slater

Clearly weary from last week’s moorland exploits the KMC voted for a roadside crag – and there isn’t much more roadside than Woodhouse Scar. Situated in the centre of Halifax in a small park you park on the aptly named Rocks Road and hop a small wall to access the top of the crag. For such a convenient location the routes have worn surprisingly well with little polish apart from on the top-outs which is probably more the result of local youths sitting on the edge – I fear they may also be responsible for the bulk of the litter and broken glass also… The intrepid KMC were, however, undeterred.

There were a couple of ascents of the curiously named “Twin Cracks” – a stiff VS with a bold start that has a single, dog-leg crack by Helen, Simon, Stuart and Dave. Helen did point out that not all twins are identical but I remain unconvinced… Mirella and Ben had a harsh introduction to the vagaries of Yorkshire grading seconding Parete (HVS) with a very tough start (especially for the short)… Eventually a traversing start up Twin Cracks was employed still with some degree of difficulty – once again, the Yorkshire grading system and my ourangutan-esque reach was blamed…

The team moved on to Pyramid Buttress where Helen and Simon climbed Spread-Eagle (VS) and then joined Dave and Stuart in a team effort on Innominate Crack (Severe going on VS) – both excellent lines with great value for their short length. Myself, Mark, Ben and Mirella climbed Woodhouse Eliminate (E1), a delicate little number with a tricky start – if anything would teach you to love jamming cracks it is a smeary slab on Yorkshire Grit! As the sun set, a swift ascent of Spread Eagle by Ben, Mark and I closed proceedings and we retreated to the Barge and Barrel.

In the pub there were somehow more nominations than people sat round the table though after one round most were eliminated and the choice was reduced to Hen Cloud, Witches Quarry and Wharncliffe. On this occasion Wharncliffe won through so next week it’s climbing under pylons on some of some of J.W Puttrell’s most historic routes – pack your tweed and your flat caps…

Dan



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If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-

Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."


Midweek meets are held at local crags, normally on Wednesday evenings, weather permitting. The "Next Crag" will be decided by those keen people who climb and vote on the night (usually in a pub nearest to the crag).

Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the travelling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some of us might still be there after its gone dark.

If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.





Midweek Climbing Venues


Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (11)
Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (12)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (3)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (1)
Cadshaw Rocks (4)
Castle Naze (16)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (12)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (9)
Denham Quarry (7)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (10)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (9)
Helsby (11)
Hen Cloud (1)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (37)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (3)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (3)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (9)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (12)
Ramshaw Rocks (7)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (3)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (12)
Shining Clough Rocks (3)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage Popular End (1)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (4)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (22)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (12)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (6)
Windgather (18)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (14)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Others (8)



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