Outdoor Midweek Meets at Wharncliffe Crags

Wharncliffe Crags

Wed 13th Aug, 2014

Meet around Great Buttress/Puttrells Progress area


Members- Dan O’Brien and Andy Stratford

“Whatever happened the Popular Peoples Front?” “He’s over there… Splitter!” – The Life of Brian

The risk of a soaking from the last hurrah of Hurricane Bertha and a lackluster forecast from the doughty Norwegians at yr.no was enough to persuade a significant contingent of the KMC that summer was over and that a session at Awesome Walls was the most sensible plan for Wednesday evening. For the hardier (or foolhardy?) however there was no real choice - the compact gritstone* of Wharncliffe was calling. Our optimism was rewarded with a warm and sunny, if breezy evenings climbing.

Wharncliffe is a crag with such history, with Puttrell first visiting in 1890 and putting up routes that still stand the test of time, it was a shame to arrive to find a significant amount of graffiti spray-painted around swathes of the Great Buttress area (though not on any of the routes as far as I can tell…) If I ever meet GEM we are going to have words – though at least paint will eventually wash off unlike the carvings of the 1950s from an age where youngsters had more respect…

Andy and I climbed Himellswilen, a completely unspellable classic VS which felt high in the grade - especially when I was taking a knee-bar no-hands rest and Andy was stuggling to reach any of the gear I had selfishly placed at the extent of my reach. A classic nonetheless. Next came Andy leading Tower Face, a heavily starred HS with some excellent technical climbing. We finished with a solo and top-rope attempt on Tensile Test (E1), a short but fingery wall climb with no gear to speak of – I was certainly glad of the extra confidence provided by the crash-pad.

Other routes climbed were Forget Me Not (S), Alpha Crack (D), Beta Crack (S), Romulus (VD), Remus (S), Fly Wall (HS), Fly Wall Gully (M) and Black Slab (Left, Centre and Right – VD).

As there were only two of us in the pub and with myself not planning to attend next week you would think it would be easy to settle on a venue… What followed was an in-depth discussion on the merits of Lancashire quarries over natural moorland edges. The moorland edges won out – it seems the potential for midges I the quarries is still a deterrent – Windgather next week!


*Coal Measures Sandstone according to Andy

Back to Current Midweek

If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-

Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

Midweek meets are held at local crags, normally on Wednesday evenings, weather permitting. The "Next Crag" will be decided by those keen people who climb and vote on the night (usually in a pub nearest to the crag).

Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the travelling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some of us might still be there after its gone dark.

If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.

Midweek Climbing Venues

Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (13)
Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (13)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (5)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (1)
Cadshaw Rocks (5)
Castle Naze (17)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (13)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (11)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (12)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (9)
Helsby (13)
Hen Cloud (2)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (40)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (4)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (3)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (9)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (13)
Ramshaw Rocks (7)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (4)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (15)
Shining Clough Rocks (3)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage Popular End (1)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (5)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (26)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (16)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (6)
Windgather (20)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (15)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Others (11)

Lancs online guidebook

Copyright © 2019 Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Karabiner Mountaineering Club