July 24th: The Beest, Beeston Tor: Goose
By Jonathan Whitham
Back at Beeston for the second weekend in a row, this time with Rob Allen who wanted to do Pocket Symphony.
Wasn't sure about the Beest. It looked a bit grubby, overgrown and obviously nobody had climbed it in quite some time. Set off up the initial groove and got quite pumped fiddling gear in as I had left any bigger stuff in my 'sack. Eventually moved over the first bulge and got a good rest as I was already pumped. Stood around for ages recovering and eventually looked at the crux. Up, down, up, down - about three times. I could at least now see what to do. A good undercut - use the highest of two - left foot in the pocket - again the highest - right hand to an intermediate hold, smear right foot on anything it sticks to, then right hand again and hope it's a jug. It was. Can't fiddle any gear in and really pumped now. Keep climbing or get some gear? I keep climbing and manage a semi-rest. Manage to get a medium hex in sideways and traverse right on steep ground and reasonable pockets but nothing for the feet. Pumped stupid by now I reach the sanctuary of a foothold and less steep rock. I stand there for five minutes whilst the pain in my forearms dies down - that's how pumped they are. I place another runner and then climb twenty five feet up grass-covered rock as I've no more extenders left.
Rob has done Pocket Symphony but isn't looking forward to seconding this. I tell him he's a Broughton powerhouse but he tells me to shut up. He has a struggle, manages the crux, rests on the gear and the hex catapults out and smacks him in the face! He sports a good lump and a smattering of blood on his forehead. A woman belaying on the slab opposite laughs at the cruelty of this act. The Beest claims another victim!
