July 96: Wasdale Head Meet (Alternative report): Dave Whittingham
By Dave Whittingham
A Short Tale of Classic Routes, Squaddie Chockstones, Helicopters, and Mango slices.
Our brand-spanking new editor has put out a plea for Quality Items for the newsletter. But just in case he doesn't receive any here is a bit of padding.
There may have been a modest KMC turnout at Brakenclose last July, but as Bob said in his report it was a memorable meet.
Now for the immodest "what I did on my holidays" bit. On Saturday morning Roger, Bridget and myself slogged up Brown Tongue, towards the cloud which we assumed contained Scafell and our chosen route, the classic Botterills Slab.
Eventually, through a brief rent in the swirling cloud, we caught a glimpse of the route. A party of two were already well established, with the leader starting, very slowly of the main pitch. One look was enough to show that the classic route was in classic condition, dripping with moisture.
Oh dear, time for plan B. More slogging uphill, over Mickledore and down below East Buttress. At least there was less cloud and wind on this side. We stopped to get out the guide book and butties.
Roger, "How about the classic Mickeldore Grooves?"
Me, "Mumble, mumble."
I have to congratulate Roger on a fine lead of pitch two. Very greasy rock and unreliable gear. His slow but steady progress was punctuated by the occasional quiet swear word and the regular clatter of another runner falling out and sliding back down the rope.
The top at last, now back to the sacks for more butties. More easily said than done. Broad stand was completely blocked by in-situ TA bods, but a short abseil took us to the crest of Mickledore. Gear packed away we set off for the hut, pausing briefly to watch all the excitement involving a broken leg and a helicopter.
The evening started quietly enough until the FRCC made an offer I could not refuse. FRCC, "Would you like a bottle of beer?"
The rest of the evening passed being slowly kippered by the remains of their barbecue. Sunday morning, after those with amphibious tendencies returned from Wastwater, four of us set out through the showers for the Napes and Needle Ridge. Not another classic route in classic conditions? No. This is a nice friendly Diff. with big holds and more protection that you can shake a rack of gear at.
Once settled in the "needle's eye" the four of us roped up in classic style, all tied together with lots of opportunity to practice rope management skills. Off set, the Engineer, the Mermaid, Press Baron and me. Pausing only to consume mango slices, the modern equivalent of Carlsbad plums, and to record the occasion with Dave's photographic apparatus, we attained the summit.
Forgoing the opportunity to sing "God Save The Queen" and leave our calling cards in a bottle, we returned to the hut, ate more food, then back home after an excellent and memorable weekend.
