Yet more climbing in the Wild, Wild, West!
By Sean Kelly
Two events came together this month. The BMC Cornish Fest based at Morwenstow & the nearby Culm Coast, and in the evening, the Bush Inn, and also a Karabiner MC Climber's Club meet based in the West Penwith area at Porthgwarra/ Count House. It was very wet when I made my way across Dartmoor and north Devon along narrow country lanes, before locating the campsite somewhat removed from both Morwenstow and the coast. By the time we arrived at Hartland Quay, the venue for checking routes for the new BMC rock-climbing guide, the rain had moved further east, and there was the promise of sun.
As we traversed across the beach, the 'we' being Nick, Alan and myself, the 'Fins' of the Culm coast came dramatically into view. The obvious feature that dominated the skyline was the enormous pinnacle of ? which sported 2 routes, an E5 up the dark steep north side and 'Barely Possible' which boldly squirms up the soaring chimney, but beware as the quality of the rock and protection deteriorates the higher one ascends! After this mini adventure we retreated to the main 'Fin' where Nick and Alan made a fine ascent of Crunchy Nut Crack, no pushover at E1 5b, especially when the cliff falls apart as Nick topped out!
Saturday evening we all adjourned to the Ship at Morwenstow to be regally entertained by Iain Peters' vivid stories of epics and pioneering in distant times as we sampled the local ale.
The rain returned on Sunday, but was complimented with a stirring BMC served breakfast of fried egg, sausage and bacon on a bun. After much procastrination, we detour eventually to the Morwenstow Tearooms, highly recommended. A cold wind and little sun did little to encourage us onto the rocks as we traversed south along the Coast Path past Screda Point and Vicerage Cliff, with many damp patches evident.
That evening I made my way to the Count House, my base for the forthcoming few days. Mean whilst the KMC advance party in the shape of Roger Dyke, Dave Shotton, Dave Wiley, Gareth Williams and Lucie Crouch were ensconced at The Three Chimneys at Porthgwarra.
The next morning my mobile went when I was sorting my sac at the boot of the car. It was Roger, who informed me that they were now at the Count House, so I waved to him!
Bosigran was on the agenda today, but there was much damp rock as we arrived below the cliff. Gareth and Dave W disappeared towards the left end of the crag, but Roger & Dave S were happy with my suggestion to tackle Allison Rib. The Direct start is not without interest. Oread Bypass provided our second choice before Dave and myself departed leftwards for the main ingredient on today's menu, Doorpost, a 'Top 50' route in the recent Rockfax guide.
I was concerned that the delectable first pitch might be decorated with damp patches, but my initial fears were unfounded, as the sun thankfully appeared, and I danced diagonally across this lovely climb running the first 2 pitches together. Dave looked rather intimidated as he surveyed his lead across a tremendously exposed top pitch, that reared up steeply above the ocean below. However a couple of good 'nuts' and he was away, especially as the large flakes arrived to ease his upward progress and nerve.
The next day dawned brilliantly clear as I departed the Count House for Porthgwarra and more particularly Chair Ladder. Despite 2 previous visits, this was the first without a cold wind blowing in off the sea. Indeed it was a day from heaven as we abseiled down Ash Can Gully to reach the start of our intended climb, Mermaid's Route. A good climb as it turned out, as it wandered across and up ever steepening steep rock at a very reasonable grade. Gareth and Dave S were seeking a sterner task as they set up their belay below the classic 'Diocese' which climbed a vertical corner groove, before launching out horizontally beneath a large intimidating overhang, thus providing much photographic potential.
Over to out right I noticed Ted and Jill, 2 CC members from the hut, about to embark up the other classic hereabouts, Terrier's Tooth. More photographic opportunities beckoned. Roger and Dave had by this time started up Wolverine Chimney, which provided Roger with much interest within the confines of a deep chimney fortunately adorned with adequate and comforting holds. The day concluded with a traditional Devon Cream tea very thoughtfully provided by The Three Chimneys management team. This was much appreciated after a hard days action on the rocks.
Returning back to the Count House later that evening I recognised a familiar face from years ago. It was old KMC member Mick Green with whom I had climbed one of the first ever Slate routes on the famous Dervish slab, Wendy Doll, a full ten years before Haston got busy with that knife & fork from Pete's.
Our next objective was Sennen, but by now the glorious weather of the previous days had given way to dark cool conditions that now cloaked West Penwith. We had been joined by Andy, Colin and Jim who were keen to get to grips with Cornish granite after their long drive from Manchester.
And so the hardy members of the Karabiner descended to this classic venue alongside a battalion of Marines from Lympstone, or so it seemed, as they were liberally festooned over all kinds of crevices and rock. An abseil rope was speedily arranged, followed by a wide spectrum of routes ascended, including that Sennen classic, Demo Route. However, mention must also be made of Gareth's bold attempt on that other Sennen classic, Samson Arete. To boldly go and layback ...and climb or ...fail?
The weather took a turn for the worse as I motored away from Cornwall back to Devon, leaving the KMC to continue their blitz of Cornish Crags & climbs. I was headed for the suntrap that is Torbay and the prospect of Deep-water Soloing. Where are my waterwings?
