A Hut to Hut Welsh 3,000ers - Dave Bish
By David Bish
Geoff arrived at 9:30 announcing that we'd leave at midnight once he'd got a few beers in! My hopes of a few hours sleep quashed and managing just one and a half beers to Geoff's four I packed my bum bag and set to producing bacon butties, resigned to the fact that I was cast in the role of apprentice.
Jogging down the path into the quarries at 12:35, the cloudless sky and full moon gave an astounding view of Llanberis Pass: "Mountaineering porn!" said Geoff. The way up Cwm Glas Bach to Snowdon (1) was in the shadow of the ridge but I had learnt this path well on my previous attempt and we powered upwards making Snowdon's summit just over two hours out from the hut. Although still night, the run down to Crib Y Ddsysgl (2) needed no headlight, we could see our way to the Glyders clear ahead - a view I've rarely enjoyed in the day from Snowdon. Headtorches on, we continued to make good time over Crib Goch with excellent grip as the rock had not yet been rendered slippery by dew. Geoff had run this section recently and found a fast line down the ridge, we only slowed after the "knife edge" section as we gained the summit of Crib Goch itself (3) and began zig-zagging down bands of scree and rock to the Pyg Track.
For me at least, tiredness and hunger was starting to creep in and I was keen to stop and try out the "experimental running breakfast". If anyone out there is contemplating salmon with lime black pepper as high energy running food - don't do it! - it goes down well enough and is even tasty but sits like a rock in your gut if you happen to have a few thousand feet to climb. The path, such as it was, was hard to locate and follow and the soggy uphill plod took a long, tough time until we arrived at the rocky plateau of Glyder Fawr (4). The summit rocks were a blessing for their firmness but slippery and irregular, just the place to break an ankle in the pre-dawn shadows.
After leaping, hopping and scrabbling across damp rock for about 15 minutes we found ourselves, haloed by a blinding red dawn, on the summit of Glyder Fach (5). We paused a moment by the Cantilever to take it in but it was too spectacular and immense for my mobile phone to capture. This morning sun was a precursor to what was going to be an uncomfortably hot day to spend in the open and something that could easily lead to over-dehydration but at least for now the visibility was perfect and the rocks underfoot drying quickly - time to get going again.
Geoff dove down the scree at the side of Bristly ridge and I scrabbled down behind, soon finding myself heading up Tryfan (6) for the second time in 24 hours (something that served to remind me of my lack of sleep). Backtracking from the summit we joined the scree path that descends at the upper end of heather terrace giving way to good running down to Tryfan Bach. I was beginning to feel awake now and as we joined the track up towards the Cwm Llugwy reservoir the first climbers and hillwalkers of the day had begun to emerge. Walking apace rather than running up this straight endless track I managed to keep ahead of a pair of "fresh" climbers headed upwards but once again Geoff was further ahead. We pretty much climbed to the slightly fogged Carnedd Llewlyn (7) in individual thought but then after checking bearings settled into a comfortable side by side jog Northwards to tick off the furthest Carneddau knowing that soon at least we would be able to turn around for the homeward leg.
The lightest wisp of cloud occasionally adorned the tops but we could still see clear over Drum (the way down from the traditional 3,000ers traverse) and glistening sandbanks, across Puffin Island and out to the Irish sea. We made good time on this section as I'd hoped and just about caught up to a one hour per peak overall time. We met a few more walkers before the turnaround at the unspectacular peak of Foel Fras (9).
I had told Geoff about the wild horses and ponies I had seen on this section before and today again they were out in force running carefree in the sun. This kind of thing is just what you need to make you feel invincible and at one with the elements - if it weren't for the fact that some old Welsh fella with ski poles kept catching us up for the next two peaks I'd have thought we were flying along.
After Carnedd Uchaf (10) we passed by the emergency Shelter on Foel Grach (8). Goeff wanted a peek but having spent a sleepless wet night there before abandoning my pervious attempt I didn't need to see the place, although passing its door I was able to point to a flatter returning line crossing our outward route towards Carnedd Llewelyn but sneakily traversing West to the col before Yr Elen (11). The traverse was rough but got us ahead of the Welsh bloke - I stopped to phone-in the fact that we were well and truly on the home straight.
The ridge above the black ladders was covered in walkers, most of whom seemed to have brought gregarious toddlers who wanted to chat. We tramped over Carnedd Dafydd (12) as someone launched a paraglider off into the perfect afternoon sky of the upper Ogwen Valley. The way home was clear now - we could see the final direct ascent to Y-Garn looming above Ogwen cottage. As we crunched and slid down the horrid scar that is the ridge of Pen Yr Ole Wen (13) I ventured to suggest that we treat ourselves to an ice-cream at Ogwen cottage - Geoff's ethical objections were decidedly short-lived and we enjoyed a blissful "tea" stop.
The stop was a bit too long our legs told us as we stamped upwards again. Although he too grumbled, Geoff's legs must have screamed quieter than mine as he set a serious pace up the steadily improving path. At the slight switchback to the summit (14) I called base again to make sure the kettle would be on as we both raced down along the ridge towards Elidir Fawr (15). Tiredness almost forgotten, the final peak was quickly reached. "How fast can you get down from here?" asked Geoff, "Last time was about an hour" I replied honestly. "If we can do it in 30 minutes that's 17 hours" ... and so we did - Geoff haring ahead with me shouting directions through the zig zags down the quarries to the huts. We cut a few corners diving headlong at the razor sharp slate inclines and my running shoes were full of slate chips as we made the steps of Ty Powdr.
I'd like to think our time of 17 hours (that's one per peak with an extra one at each end to get to and from the ridges) is a good time for the 35 and 15 peaks miles we covered. Nonetheless I have been warned that any pride in this is likely to come unstuck if we search the annals of KMC endeavour - still I'm sure I'll do it faster in the Spring!
Final note:
Some onlookers (well Duncan) had suggested I call this article "How not to prepare for the Bob Graham Round." but on reflection the sleepless start (if not the beer!) and Geoff's relentless pace were just what I needed. The BGR is a traverse of 42 Lake District peaks starting and finishing at Keswick. Geoff Hibberd did his Bob Graham round last year and is hoping to do a Paddy Buckley (you don't want to know how hard that is!) this year. I am attempting a BGR on the 9th of May 2009. If any club members are interested in helping out by joining me on any short mountain runs or would be able to join in with support on the day please get in touch.
