A Few Days in Knoydart

By Phil Ramsbottom

I woke up at 6 and unzipped the tent door to see a blanket of cloud hanging around 1500 feet. After a night of frequent heavy showers I wasn't surprised so I snuggled back down and started to go through the previous day in my mind.

I had driven up from Manchester in rain that got gradually heavier until it was absolutely torrential - the plan had been to walk in to Knoydart and camp at the West end of Loch Quoich, but as I was driving along the side of the Loch it was obvious from the swollen state of the burns that this was never going to happen. Eventually the road ended at Kinloch Hourn and I still didn't have a plan, it had finally stopped raining but I couldn't see anywhere to camp. [there's a sign saying "no camping before Barrisdale, 7mi", Ed]. Hastily I decided to walk the three hours to Barrisdale. With hindsight my reasoning was probably that I had a chance of a dry bed in the bothy there, as it turned out when I finally arrived it wasn't raining so I decided to camp.

Back to the present; as I was lying in my sleeping bag; I was considering walking over to Inverie for a drink but beyond that I still had not come up with any other way to pass a wet few days in Barrisdale. I was considering my alternatives as I unzipped the tent door again, only to do a double take - the low cloud had lifted to reveal the top of Luinne Bheinn covered in new white snow backed by a clear blue sky all lit up by clear May sunshine.

I was out of my sleeping bag in minutes, all round I could see clear hills, it was still cool as the sun had not reached me but it was already obvious that this was just a matter of time. I walked a few yards to be clear of some of the Barrisdale buildings to be rewarded with a view across the salt flats, a herd of deer were calmly grazing on the short grass, the calm of Loch Hourn was only broken by the wake of a small boat, then Beinn Sgritheall rose majestically on the far side.

Beinn Sgritheall across Loch Hourn on Day 1

After a quick breakfast I set of across the salt flats for Ladhar Bheinn. I had planned a clockwise circuit of the magnificent Coire Dhorrcail, which gave a wonderful day the highlight of which was the hour I spent alone on the summit taking in the views out to Rhum and Skye. I was a bit apprehensive about the descent over Stob a Choire Odhair in the new snow but I took my time and was soon down below the snow line enjoying yet another rest in the sunshine.

An hour later I was sitting outside my tent with the kettle on, the sun was still shining and I was completely happy. After drinking my tea and reading a few pages of my book I decided to have a walk back along the track. The previous night the failing light and the concern about where to camp had forced me to press on so I was interested to explore the immediate area. I spent a couple of hours taking photos and wondering what it must be like to live in such a remote place when the wind is howling and the rain is driving past. Up above, Ladhar Bheinn was looking wonderful in the sunlight, was I really on the summit only 4 hours ago?

That night I slept the sleep of the totally knackered and woke much fresher than the previous day, it was another stunner with sunshine from sunrise to sunset. I was a bit boring with my choice of walk but my excuse was that this was my first visit to Knoydart and the obvious aim for the day was to get high and stay up there as long as possible. I followed the excellent path from Barrisdale up to Mam Unndalain, climbing steadily in and out of the sunshine, once there I turned right and found a way through the bumpy hillside to the top of Luinne Bheinn, today the route finding was simple, in mist? After a nice long sit on the top watching Barrisdale come to life below I followed the rough ridge round to Meall Buidhe where I sat looking down towards Loch Nevis, Inverie and out to Rhum, what a fantastic sight. The previous day I had noticed what looked like a good way off the summit into the rough Choire Odhair, and like everything in those few days it worked out perfectly.

Beinn Sgritheall (again) from approach to NE ridge of Stob a Chearcaill (day 1).

I first followed the North ridge for about 400 metres, then turned North East along a rounded ridge which took me down to the corrie - ideally it would be possible to maintain height and work round to some small lochans but I had to climb up slightly before finding a rising line which took me round to Mam Barrisdale - from there the track back to my tent was very easy.

Back at the campsite a few more people had arrived bringing an up to date weather forecast, this promised another two days of the fantastic weather which was not quite enough for my plan to get to the West end of Loch Quoich so the next morning I decided to move on and walk back to Kinloch Hourn.

The walk back was an absolute delight despite my heavy rucksack. The path does rise and fall many times [it's the last hill above Skiary that's the killer, Ed] but I was in the sunshine, walking along next to a beautiful loch and as it was still early I felt as if I had this wonderful area to myself.

I arrived at Kinloch Hourn around 11.00, with most of the day in front of me so I decided to have a look at Sgurr a' Mhaoraidh. I do confess that I was quite indifferent about this hill for some reason, but as soon as I stepped off the road I realised that this was something special. The reason for this was the path which is so well maintained that it makes the ascent very easy, cleverly winding in and out of bumps and rises, constantly finding the easiest line. The weather stayed sunny but there was now a cool East wind blowing, which made me reach for my jacket for the first time. This was a minor inconvenience as the wind seemed to have totally cleared the air of any traces of mist and left me with views from Ben Nevis to Torridon. As a descent I opted for the ridge leading over Am Bathaich - this was because of the interesting looking path which zigzags down to the Northern arm of Loch Quoich, and what a path it turned out to be - who were the heroes that must have laboured to construct it in such a place?

I got back to my car just as the last rays of the sun touched the glen, from then on it soon became very cold very quickly so I put up my tent and settled down for an early night in my warm sleeping bag.

Meall Buidhe and Coire Odhair from Luinne Bheinn (day 2)

The next morning I crawled out of my tent to be greeted by an icy cold blast of the East wind, I looked enviously across Loch Quoich to see the sun shining on Sgurr Mor whilst I shivered and wrapped my hands around my tea mug.

After driving a short distance along the road I was warm again as I laced up my boots at the start of the path leading to Gleouraich, again the path proved to be superb; zig zagging up to a fine ridge overlooking Loch Quoich with views back to the West where I could see the pointed Sgurr na Ciche. The swollen burns of 4 days ago were now mere trickles, stretches of the old road along Loch Quoich (flooded when the Loch was dammed) were clearly visible. From the summit I followed the ridge along to Spidean Mialach where my stomach and the view demanded at least an hour's inactivity. The way off the summit was not quite so obvious as some of the other paths that I had been on but I soon picked up a good line which led back across the mouth of a big South facing corrie before joining a well defined path. All too soon I was back on the road with a short stroll back to my car.

I had waited over seven years to get to Knoydart, partly because of external events but more recently I had set my heart on enjoying the area in a spell of decent weather, given the areas reputation for rainfall I did not really expect complete success. For once I was lucky, I was given four completely perfect days, and that is something that I will remember for the rest of my life.

Just a thought - for now...

Is anyone interested in a meet in Knoydart?

As a rough suggestion the Barrisdale Estate have a couple of cottages which can be hired and one of the locals at Kinloch Hourn will transport parties in on his boat which would save 7 miles each way and enable plenty of provisions to be carried.

I would certainly be interested in going back, if enough people get in touch I am prepared to make some serious enquiries. [I'll be back in there at the end of May, Ed]

My contact details are in the handbook.