Cairngorms, Mill Cottage

Members Present: Andy Croughton, Roger Daley, Duncan Lee, David K. Lygate, Colin Maddison, Craig Marsden, Al Metelko, Brian Street.

 

Coire nan Lochan

Coire nan Lochan We had originally booked twelve places for this meet, however due to a double booking by The Mill Cottage Trust, we agreed to reduce this number to eight. They tried to bump us completely, then change the date, however all of our correspondence had the correct dates on it, & they had cashed our deposit cheque, so they didn't have a leg to stand on. If I was being cynical, I would say that they couldn't resist the six day booking from the other club & thought that they could get away with it!

The lucky eight were rewarded for not leaving their booking to the last minute. We had fantastic winter climbing conditions on the Saturday, the day was calm with mainly clear skies & just the odd bit of cloud.

The trip north was looking good with clear skies & temperatures dropping as we headed towards the Border. However, at Gretna things started to look bad with heavy rain all the way to Drumochter. There was also an accident that had closed part of the A9 & we were diverted through Pitlochry as the only alternative route. We then sat in a queue of traffic as a lorry spent 20 minutes negotiating the underside of a bridge & almost got stuck, which would have closed the diversion. We began to feel jealous of Andy & Brian, who had left in the morning to fit in a fantastic day in the Lakes. Luckily the lorry driver gave up his foolish task & waited until the A9 re-opened. We were then able to continue out journey north & from Drumochter the rain started to fall as snow.

Once we'd arrived at the hut, Duncan's chocolate Beer & Andy's whisky kept us all up talking about Craig's shopping experiences a lot later than we should. Since we were sharing the hut, it was full to capacity, with some of the other group camping & three of us sleeping on the sofas or the floor.

Despite or as a result of the sleeping arrangements, we were all up early on the Saturday morning & heading in the direction of the Cairngorm Ski Centre. Most of the group walked into Coire an T-Sneachda, except Andy & Brian who summited Braeriach via the Chalamain Gap.

With the ice axes out & crampon on, David & Duncan (DL & DL) & Colin & Craig (CM & CM) all headed towards the same crag. DL & DL tackled The Seam, an exceptionally dramatic looking climb (100m grade IV,5*) with Duncan leading, while CM & CM tackled Invernookie, one of the best named climbs in the area (120m grade III,4*). We then combined groups to scramble up the top section of the Fiacaill Ridge (grade II). On our way back down into Coire an T-Sneachda, we stopped to watch a large party being filmed for what looked like a documentary, before DL & DL & CM & CM climbed Red Gully (120m grade II*) with DL & DL taking alternate leads. Al & Roger had been here on the main crag all day & had climbed The Runnel (135m grade II**) & Aladin's Mirror Direct (25m grade IV,4). We then all retired to the Cairngorm Hotel to meet up with Brian & Andy for a couple of well deserved pints to celebrate such a perfect day.

When we got back to the hut, we found out that the other group, who were also from the North West & mainly Mountain Rescue, had mislaid a skier. He had headed out for a short ski tour & not returned, so they had called the Mountain Rescue. He was eventually found, given a trip in an RAF helicopter for one mile & then driven to the hut by the Mountain Rescue. He told us that since it was such a perfect day, that he had decided to extend his ski tour quite considerably & timewise he had bitten off more than he could chew.

 

Sunday started with the smell of burnt toast, produced by an oblivious Roger, who said "Oh is it done?"

The weather report had said bad conditions to arrive after lunch, so we were all up early to blue skies, determined to get a morning route in. However, while marching into Coire an T-Sneachda the storms arrived early - high winds & snow, we made an unanimous decision to turn back as the conditions were atrocious. There were incredibly bad driving conditions on the way home with high winds, driving rain & very poor visibility. DL & DL witnessed 5 bad crashes on the homeward drive & were glad not to have been stuck out on the hills.

Despite the loss of Sunday, it had been a fantastic trip for winter climbing & thoroughly enjoyed by all. I'm sure I can speak for all that attended when I say, if we get more conditions like the Saturday, then I can't wait for next season.

David Lygate