Lofoten Islands Meet

July 11th/25th

This is not a proper meet report as due to the lack of people, it dropped to the status of a private meet well before.

Members present: Dave Bone, Tony Major.

 

Logistics: We flew out with SAS from Manchester via Oslo (long wait) to Harstad-Narvik (Evenes) Airport on the Norwegian mainland arriving at 8pm. This is actually miles from either town so we hired a car - the Lofotens are now connected by road with a spanking new 5km tunnel through the hills of Hinnoya. Make sure you have a passenger who is awake - to keep the driver from falling asleep at the mind numbing 50, 60 or 80km/hr speed limits. It takes around 2½ hours to reach Austvagoy, the principal climbing island. We put the tents up in a dry bog (no rain for some time) at midnight - in the sun (this takes a couple of days [nights?] of getting used to. Even after the midnight sun it was light enough to read all 'night'. All supplies were picked up at around double UK prices in Svolvaer at one of 3 supermarkets. Gas cylinders (all types, Meths also available) were obtained from a petrol station on the northern side of town. Get your maps from the Tourist office - weather forecast sheets printed out at ~10am, though for longer term are about as 'accurate' as the UK. It's only a short drive to Henningsvaer - we spent the entire fortnight camped at the free rough camping area below Gandalfveggen near there. Water available from the town's water pipe, washing in the sea (the rocks are quite warm at 9 in the evening) - very popular and crowded, though spread over an area, and with grandstand views of climbers on Gandalf (Top 50 VS) at midnight (because they can).

Conditions: We arrived at the end of a long dry spell so the first 2 days were mainly blue skies and sun, though more unsettled conditions asserted themselves dotted with odd excellent days. The tendency was for light rain or drizzle with low cloud late evening into the morning, but climbable from midday into the evening. We climbed every day except the last two, though we could have done one more afternoon, but I at least was too tired by then. High winds on one day only - on the day we were on Presten. Temperatures were comfortable, averaging 14C and not dropping much at night. Insects were not significant - no need for protection. Just one or two mosquitoes in the tent, a few flies on hot days and no midges - well maybe one. Look out for large flies landing on your ankle - could be a horsefly, able to chew a large bloody hole in a second or two. Only saw two - and they're dead now. The rock was excellent, the routes long and mostly well protected and the Rockfax guide generally accurate. The walk ins and general walking - well these can be challenging - the less popular areas have little sign of a trail so you are left wading through deep, wet vegetation (ferns mostly) uncertain where ground level is, and forcing your way through Birch thickets. Beware the 'new' approach to Vagakallen - beyond the upper lake you are on your own. The approach to Rana is shall we say, 'exciting'. Good boots and gaiters vital.

The costs (it doesn't have to be as bad as you think): For 1 person (expenses having been shared equally, and roughly converted to £).

Flights (SAS economy): £251

Car Hire (14day, Economy): £253

Petrol: £34

Fuel: £9

Food supplies (plus a can of beer on a few nights): £119

Total for Trip: £666

 

Other Notes: There isn't much of interest on a wet day (unless you like art). Finding somewhere to recycle was difficult - don't crush your cans/bottles as cylindrical recyclables are returned to a machine in the Svolvaer Co-op entrance for a refund.

Now, finally some memories of the climbing to report. The main thing to note is that our routes featured a lot of finger jamming, sometimes finger tips, so the digits suffer. Not much pure slabs and a moderate amount of hand-jamming - quite a variety of climbing really. Paradiset - a 3D maze with lots of short routes (a bit like Sennen). You may see where your target is, but getting there? Good for poor days - indeed don't waste good days going here. Rum and Cola - find your own way there with wet feet. Protection sparse in places and the route gets the maximum out of the cliff by a lot of slab traversing. Out to the right for 15m, up 5m and back 15m - you're now 5m above your belayer, hauling a small liner even though you've only got 2 pieces on the traverse - bizarre. Oh and a fine example of a steep descent on deep grass above nothing - grass climbing on Lofoten is SERIOUS. Rana - a long forgotten traditional route - add in the ascent and descent and it's quite an expedition. The best pitch probably is the cracked slab before the technically crux pitch (over shortly). Three lessons - on the approach (from hell), when it flattens, keep going diagonally up to the right. On the way down - follow the ridge down for a long way with the abseil a long way down at the foot. Gear up at the car - leave nothing behind at the start! Bare Blabaer - superb route and a great introduction, but do try some of the other routes (more appearing). As for the 5- grade conversion to HS, sorry no. The cracks hereabouts are bottomless and really do eat ropes - take prussiks to go back up.

 

Lundeklubben (6) at Festvag.

 

 

The Nose of Presten.

 

 

Island of Gimsoy from under Presten at 11pm, around sunset.

 

The Nose of Gandalfveggen - queues almost guaranteed, no problem with the walk in or descent, and dries very quickly. Gandalf is an immaculate 3 pitch VS. Gamle Rev - we haven't actually done it but we know every move having watched ascents every evening. Festvag - strewn with superb 6s, and a fair 5+ or two. Lundeklubben (Puffin club) equates to a steady E1 (6), watch out for the wooden Puffin. Four Pitch Route (6) - dull name, but the climbing on it is as good as the big starred routes. Skiloperen (6-, HVS) despite the description, you can save your skin as jamming is only required on a couple of moves. Presten is a glorious 400m nose of granite, emitting a constant siren's call. Even if not certain you're up for it, the absolute classic of Vestpillaren (6, ~E2 5b) offers 12 pitches of unforgettable climbing (no need for the car when based at Gandalf). The holiday is complete, just about anything else is an anti-climax.

Dave Bone