Lakes - Eskdale Camp, Bivi & Climb
Present: Jim Symon, Colin Maddison, Andy Stratford, Gareth Williams.
The plan was for a bivvy/camp meet below Esk Buttress but due to an apocalyptic forecast of floods, the plan was changed to a meet at Rawhead (Langdale) to entice any adventurous minded people with promises of comfort and warmth. Thanks to Andy Stratford who managed to secure six places and the possibility of more. A few phone calls and messages on scribble revealed that only three KMC members of Team Hardcore were keen enough (or daft enough) to join me. Team Hardcore were: Colin Iron Will Maddison; Gareth Big Sac Williams: Andy Captain Competitive Stratford and myself the quiet half of Team Bickering.
We arrived in Langdale on Friday evening to rivers about to burst their banks, trees floating in the valley and Langdale Pikes raging waterfalls more akin to Milford Sound. Over beer and flapjacks I asked “what shall we do tomorrow?” Iron Will raised an eyebrow and gave me that canny little smile that I knew all too well: “climbing of course!” All nodded in approval, the stage was set.
We packed our sacks, Gareth Big Sac having the largest of course, we could only look on with sack envy. The day dawned with lighter rain and it even looked inviting! We donned waterproofs indoors and Iron Will commented on my appalling lack of colour co-ordination. I informed him that it was an old pair of red Gortex pants of Judith’s, he then accused me of cross-dressing. Captain Competitive gave a big leering smile – I think I made his day. Anyway - on with the day. We walked up to Tarn Crag. Each pair chose a route, both twopitch two star Diffs, next to each other – very cosy! Big boots and sack job. Captain Competitive reached the belay just before me: “you can use my belay if you like!” A little smile of victory. His hand was bleeding at the knuckles. “Cut yourself did you? I didn’t!” Captain’s smile wavered a little. Iron Will and Gareth Big Sac joined us and we carried on upwards to the top of our first route.
Captain’s knuckles were taped up and we continued to Stickle Tarn and Pavey Ark. The rain was getting harder, my boots split due to the water oozing out of them. Our next route, Crescent Climb (100m two star mod) is described in the guide book as a good mountaineering route best combined with Gwynne’s Chimney. We climbed independently as two teams on the same route. The wind was making swirly patterns down on Stickle Tarn. The mist closed in and gave the climb a more menacing feel. Pitch one was a squelchy arête which led on to a very interesting second pitch traverse below a dark overhang. Iron Will gave some learned advice to Gareth Big Sac about the traverse he himself had just led. I followed Gareth and led through and found a ski pole on pitch three – “Strange place for a ski pole” I thought to myself. Now we had reached Gwynne’s Chimney and it was raining harder. Iron Will bridged, squirmed and came to a halt. The water was really gushing by now. If Iron Will was struggling to find the way up, we knew we were in for a hard time. Iron Will battled on and gave Captain Competitive a tight rope. Conditions were getting extreme even if the climbing grade wasn’t.
It was Gareth Big Sac’s lead and I felt relieved that I hadn’t got that pitch. The heavens opened and the chimney turned into a raging waterfall. Every step Gareth moved up, the water tried to force him down. He was struggling with his big sack and had to take it off to progress. Time passed and he disappeared in a torrent of water. I could see he was battling to get gear in against the force of the downpour. Moments later a large object came crashing towards me. To my relief it was Gareth’s big sack and not him. My relief was short-lived when it dawned on me that I would have to second this pitch with two sacks on my back, (a fleeting idea crossed my mind – maybe I could kick it down the hill and pretend it had bounced past me! Though of course I didn’t entertain this thought for very long.) Above, Gareth had to dig deep to find reserves to go up before the cold icy water sapped his strength and numbed his fingers completely. He made it up and we were both relieved. Now it was my turn to take on the waterfall with two weighty sacks. I didn’t fancy my chances but set off determined to give it my best shot. It was a struggle to see the gear. I put my hands into the icy water searching to release the friend in the crack somewhere beneath the torrent. Hands were numb, fingers clawed woodenly at holds, I got near to the top where it went out right to get out of the water to regain some feeling. The two sacks were heavy with water and my strength was ebbing away. I lunged for a hold and got it with numb fingers, then my foot slipped and I slithered down the slime despondently – panting. I regained my footing and it took all I had to get to Gareth. Boy was I glad to reunite Gareth and his big sac – “good lead mate!”
We all carried on to the top of Pavey Ark and walked down bursting rivers and waded through streams as we couldn’t get any wetter. It is a day none of us will ever forget! This is why we do what we do. Life is an adventure. We will all remember Gwynne’s Chimney for a long time.
Next day we went and did Middlefell Buttress in light rain. Then we walked up to Gimmer Crag. The day brightened up and Team Hardcore were up for more routes. At this point I fancied a romp over the Langdale skyline on my tod to Bowfell and the lads were ok with this – they teamed up as a three and did Ash Tree Slabs (S) and A Route (MS). We all met up at the pub at about seven in the evening – another good day. Thanks lads for making it a weekend to remember.
