Norway - Rjukan (4 nights)

Present: Colin Maddison, Craig Marsden, Jim Symon& Andrew Stratford (Team Bickering), Dave Bish, Al Metelko, James Williams, Gareth Williams, Lucy Crouch, Nick Adamson and Sarah Adamson.

 

They journeyed north; onward to the land of the even farther north. To the land of Vikings, Trolls, Dwarves and Noggin the Nog. To the land of long dark nights and great sagas, told around roaring fires (or electric radiant heaters). Tales of great chieftans; of Eric ‘Bloodaxe’Harraldson; of Colin ‘The Not Quite Ready’ Maddison; of Craig ‘The Mighty’ Marsden(son) and his fearsome axe beneath which whole icefalls would crumble; and tales of ‘Team Bickering’ and rough ‘berserker’ comradeship between warriors.

Longships being hard to come by on the Ship Canal, they travelled to Liverpool (probably the most hazardous part of the trip) to board the great metal bird of ‘Ryan the Air’; and so the tale began, ‘It was a dark and stormy night…’

It was actually about 5.00pm on a cold, grey February day as the ferocious hoards stormed the check-in and Jim ‘The Not to be Let Out Alone’ Symon is found to be over his hold baggage weight allowance. Andy ‘Mother Hen’ Stratford repacks for him and so to Security. Jim’s hand luggage is x-rayed.‘You’ve got a blade in here, sir’, says a formidable Amazon security woman, ‘No I haven’t, says Jim. Every nook and cranny of the rucksack is searched. ‘You’ve got a blade in here, sir’. ‘No, I haven’t’. The bag is x-rayed again. ‘You’ve got a blade in here, sir. ‘No I haven’t.’ A further search reveals a pocket inside the lid and a spare ice-axe pick! You have a blade in here, sir.’‘Oh’, says Jim.

In days to come tales will be told of the ‘great journey’. Of how they flew uneventfully to Oslo Torp and journeyed on for many minutes (approx. 150) through the night by hire car to arrive at Rjukan, in the Telemark district, well past their bedtimes (approx. 1.00am – what would mother say?). They settle to sleep; it seems windy, but only inside the cabin!

Thursday dawns, conveniently, just as the sun comes up. Not that its rays will reach into the depth of the of the east-west Rjukan valley until March or April. In any event, it is both cold and cloudy.

Thus, in the great hall of Valhalla the mighty warriors prepare for the final great battle and the end of the world, ‘Ragnarok’. Or rather, in a small log cabin a timid bunch of KMCers arm themselves with as many ice screws as they could carry and resolve to stay well clear of the place!

Rjukan icefalls are given Water Ice (WI) grades, WI 1, WI 2, and so on. As a guide, WI 2 equates approximately to Scottish III, WI 3 to IV, WI 4 to V and WI 5 to VI/VII.

Craig and I are dropped off at the Bølgan area, where ‘Plaster påSåret (WI 3) gives about 180m of fine climbing in four pitches (though Craig is reminded of the basic medium as his axe releases a jet of water up his sleeve), followed by an abseil decent through the trees and powder snow.

The virgins of Team Bickering introduce themselves to the Rjukan experience on the single pitch routes of the Ozzimossis area, where they quickly get to grips with four WI 3’s. They are joined by Gareth, Nick, Lucy and Sarah, who are also on their first visit and the girls both enjoy their introduction to ice climbing. Meanwhile, Al and Dave lead James, another first-timer, to the Lower Gorge where they introduce him to the experience on LP-plata (WI 3) and Knerton (WI 3).

Later Norwegian shopping proves confusing for some. Jim, ‘So Eple is apple and Aple is Orange?’ Later again, Dave saws in half the kitchen roll I’ve bought instead of toilet rolls.

After another ‘breezy’ night in the cabin Friday again dawns cold and cloudy. The coffee machine gurgles away. Someone asks, ‘How do we know when it’s ready.’ James, ‘It will make a gassy sound.’ Colin, ‘How will we tell in here?’ By now it is apparent that the entire wind section of the KMC has assembled in Rjukan.

Jim and Andy, now full of confidence, launched themselves up the classic multi-pitch ‘Fabrikkfossen’ (WI 3) above the town centre. It gives them six very satisfying pitches of good ice followed by five long abseils, touching down shortly before dark. They are followed by Dave and James who join the abseils after pitch 4.

A trip to the Upper Gorge is a Rjukan must; big routes in a dramatic setting. Craig and I head to the top end where two abseils and snow gully bring us to its depths and a sweaty flounder through deep snow covering boulders and the, hopefully, frozen river Måma. A further slog for 50m up soft snow takes us to the start of ‘Juledagsfossen’ (WI 4). Hmm, the start looks steep. It is steep. I belay after about 30metres where the middle section lays back a bit. Craig goes through following a ribbon of ice amidst vast snow covered slabs. A step at mid height proves steeper than it looks and he disappears from sight; the rope comes tight so I move up about eight metres.

Above the bulge good ice had given way to worryingly insubstantial snow over thin, brittle ice and rock. Craig finally belays, after a long run-out, to a boss of good ice. Above it quickly deteriorates again. After about 12 unstable metres I plant my axe into what looks like good ice where the final section rears up. It’s a thin chandelier and disintegrates, showering Craig with fragments. But it reveals a small rock spike for a sling and an insecure traverse leads 12 or 15 metres right to where a line of decent ice leads to the top. I’ve four screws left and about 30 metres of steep ice above. Should I belay here? Craig assures me I’ve enough rope to proceed! So onward, spacing the screws. Finally, pulling over the top my axe disappears into powder to rebound off rock. Shit! Teetering over, the tope comes tight. Five metres to the belay. ‘Would you mind awfully moving up a tad old boy.’ Or words to that effect. Then panting on the belay.

Nick and Gareth walk into the lower end of the Upper Gorge for Lettvann, that gives three pitches of WI 2 and then score well with the two pitch VermorkbrufossØst (WI 4) at Vermork Bridge.

Later, after dark in the cabin we speculate on the fate of the Fabrikfossen quartet and open a sweepstake on when they will return. The call for assistance comes at 7.30pm. Dave has left the lights on and they have a flat battery (a tradition started by Craig in 2010). We go to the rescue, but only because they have the cook with them! An hour later everyone’s home and Dave is the proud owner of a £50.00 set of jump leads.

Saturday is again cold, but brings clear skies, views of the Goustatoppen peak and some sun. Nick, Sarah, James and Lucy head up the hairpins to the ski centre, with its fantastic views across the vast Hardangervidda plateau, and later sample the swimming pool with its outdoor hot tub.

The rest of crew walk up to the ‘Tjønnstadberg’ area on the sunny side of the valley, high above the town centre. Dave and Al and Team Bickering race each other up the broad waterfall of the classic ‘Tjønnstadbergfossen (WI 4), swinging leads over four fine pitches. Craig and I, joined by Gareth, choose Klappfoss(WI 4). Craig leads off out of sight. Judging by the quantity of ice Gareth and I are dodging there should be a fine staircase to follow. The rope slows; we suspect it must be steep; mainly due to the shout of ‘F*** this is steep’ from above! We follow; Gareth unsure what to do with his axes on the belay throws one away! He’s crestfallen that his day is over until we point out that we can actually afford to throw away another three axes before we are in trouble. From the next belay we lower him one and he follows and leads through to the top.

Sunday and the mercury shows a positively balmy -1/-2°C, but with a cold wind. We have until 5.00pm until we must head back to Oslo Torp. Nick, Sarah, Gareth and Lucy opt for walks in the gorge and on the plateau and a visit to the museum, once the Norsk Hydro plant where the WWII saboteurs attempted to destroy heavy water production.

For Jim, Andy, Craig and I it’s Vormork Bridge. We recommend VemorkbrufossenØst to Team Bickering, an impressively situated two pitch WI 4 below the bridge at the mouth of the Upper Gorge. They polish it off in style while Craig and I boulder hop the not entirely frozen River Måma to swing leads on Tungtvann, another two pitch WI 4. Meanwhile, up at Krokan, Dave, Al and James help themselves to a handful of single pitch routes from WI 2 to WI 5.

Then it’s back down the road, past Lake Tinnsjø, where the saboteurs sank the ferry carrying the heavy water to Germany, and on to Oslo Torp for our flight. Dave is done at Security for a Swiss Army knife in his hand baggage and asks for a Leatherman to also be taken into account, but manages to hang onto his jump leads.

Thanks to all for a great trip and to Andy for feeding us so well. I expect we will be back next year.

Colin Maddison