Millstone - climbing meet

Members: Andy Stratford, James Williams, Oi Ding Koy, Simon Robertshaw, Emily Pitts

Guests: Conor Gahan, Clay Conlon, Jasmine Pitts, Kat Lauer, Geri Mihalkova, Michaela Schaller, Hong Thoong

 

Ah.  The smell of the countryside, a lovely sunny summers day, peace and quiet…  Doof.  Doof. As we approached Millstone it got louder.  Doof.  Doof.  Doof.  Doof.  The sweet smell of cannabis smoke drifted out of the quarry along with a series of repetitive beats...  down in the quarry hole 200 ravers were still going strong.

Fortunately Surprise View parking is also handy for Lawrencefield, so we headed there.

There were fewer lead climbers than normal today so we split into teams – James warmed up on Once Pegged Wall (VS 5a) then Limpopo Groove (VS 4b) and Delectable Variation (VS 4c)

Clay warmed up on Three Tree Climb (HS 4b) then Tyrone (VS 4c), Limpopo Groove and Once Pegged Wall.  Andy crawled up Snail Crack (VDiff), then Three Tree Climb, Nova (HS 4b), Tyrone, and Limpopo Groove.  Conor led up Nova then Great Harry (VS 4c) and Excalibur (VS 4c).  Emily arrived late after a long drive from Salisbury and just had time to lead up Snail Crack.

Kat, Geri, Hong, Michaela, Ding and Simon followed behind all the leaders with many of them doing their hardest seconding so far.

 

Meanwhile, at Millstone, some of the more senior members of the KMC were revelling in the Disco Beat…

Members present:  Kevin Anderson, Jim Symon, Philippa Maye, Roger Dyke.

Guests:  Alice Bows, Kevin’s friends Paul & Nic, plus Phil Blue from Preston who had come with friends but whom we somehow adopted and ate his biscuits.

 

Sunday morning, a text came saying:  “Rave still happening at Millstone.  Moved to Lorenzy Field.  Same parking.  Music, cannabis and lots of people off their heads.”  

Three copies of it indeed – nice to know I have so many young friends.

But at the crag I was singularly short of friends until Kevin and Alice arrived, soon followed by their friends Paul and Nic.

Sky Walk was the first target – an old favourite of mine.  Its first pitch has become seriously vegetated, so Kevin set off up Buxton Road then turned right to hit the traverse of SW… but by then the wind had got up and become gusty, making the exciting top pitch of SW a bit too exciting so we all took the obvious crumbling escape route…

Round at Embankment where the beat from the party was less oppressive we found Paul haring up Bond Street (HVS 5a) so Kevin set off up the nicely sheltered The Mall (VS 4c), competently followed by Alice.  

Jim and Phillippa joined us, having walked over from Burbage.  We all tucked into Phil’s chocolate bourbons, and gave him a shortbread in exchange.

Seeing Paul flying up The Mall with just 3 runners, Jim produced a harness and demonstrated that is really was as easy as Paul had made it look.  Just needs plenty of muscle.

“Why don’t you put more runners in Paul?”     “Oh, they might fall out.”

Kevin:  “Remember, if  XXXXX offers you a top-rope, you’ll be soloing.   His anchors make YYYYY’s look sound.”   (Roger is offering prizes for correct identification of X and Y – Ed.)

Kevin couldn’t resist Bond Street, but discovered early on that he didn’t have the right coloured Friends for the route.  Paul dutifully supplied the necessary, explaining as he handed over each one where it was to go.  Nothing beats job knowledge.

At this point I discovered it was 6.35 and I’d promised to be home by 7.00 ready for supper guests arriving at 7.30…..

Andy Stratford