Deadman Practice (Photo: Andy Stratford)  



Gareth on P1 of Crest Route V,6 Stob Corrie Nan Lochan (Andy Stratford)
Downclimbing after the failed attempt on Crest Route! (Andy Stratford)
Deadman Practice (Andy Stratford)


Alex Mac Hut - Glencoe


Members present: Clay Conlon, Steve Graham, Stuart Hurworth, Bob Kelly, Jamie Ledingham, Gergana (Geri) Mihalkova, Carolyn Mills, Emily Pits, Andy Stratford, Emma Timmis, Gareth Williams, James Williams. Roger Daley and Colin Maddison had initially booked to attend but had to drop out for various reasons.

 

Most members arrived on Thursday night, though Bob had already been up for a few days whilst Jamie and Carolyn couldn't get Friday off work, so arrived a day after the masses.

 

Friday 7th February
Bagger Bob was off ticking, today Sgurr a Choisti from Ballachulish. Meanwhile a team of climbers set out for Stob Corrie nan Lochan in Glen Coe. There was so much snow that the boulder field in the corrie floor was utterly buried -- not a rock in sight. Even the crag itself was having a hard time showing itself through the deep snow burying it. Clay, Steve and James climbed as a three, exploring options across several routes before finding a combination of pitches with conditions that would actually let them climb to the top.  I believe it was 2 pitches of Twisting Grooves and a pitch of Twisting Gully that brought them to the top, with some cornice-smashing fun to top off their Grade IV day.  Andy and I went to try Crest Route (V,6) but after half a pitch found it unclimbable in the conditions: completely buried in deep, soft, powder snow.  Compare page 30 of February's Climb magazine with the photos on the KMC website.

Emily, Emma, Geri and Stuart were all booked onto a winter skills training course, organised by Steve Graham on behalf of the KMC.  The also headed up to Stob Corrie nan Lochan, where they spent time learning and practising skills such as ice axe arrest and building snow bollards.  They all arrived back at the hut clearly having enjoyed the day.

The meet's communal dinner was tonight, consisting of cottage pie followed by trifle and cheesecake.  The meet's most amusing moment also occurred, as Bob's jaw hit the floor when he learnt of Emma's plan to run across Africa later this year:

Bob (serious tone): I need to get out training more for my run.
Emma (interested tone): Oh, can I train with you sometime?
Bob (sensitive tone): Er, well, it's for a 100 mile run you know?
Emma (casual tone): Oh, is that all?
Bob (cautiously intrigued tone): Why, how far are you running?
Emma (even more casual tone): Oh, about 3000 miles.

 

Saturday 8th February
The conditions hadn't improved overnight, and in fact it rained/snowed for much of the day.  I took a rest day, but Bob remained keen to bag.  He attempted Meall Mor from Ballachulish. After a promising track turned out to be a dead end, he turned back before reaching the summit.  Later in the day he departed for Glasgow to visit family.

The winter skills team were put through their paces on Carn Dearg, learning about bucket seats, body belays and T-axe belays.  Carolyn, James, Jamie and Steve set out for a mountaineering day on the Inglis Clark ridge of Creise.  But on finding the approach to it buried, they instead opted for the NE ridge of Sron na Creise.  A great effort in the conditions.

Even more impressive, Andy and Clay had set off to climb North Buttress (IV,4) on Buachaille Etive Mor.  They made good progress on the route, and after completing it in good time they descended by abbing the line.  It had been snowing wet, heavy flakes all day, making the approach slopes very difficult to descend.  They arrived back to the hut a bit later than expected but after a very enjoyable day.

 

Sunday 9th February
The conditions still hadn't improved, and it remained raining.  The four winter skills trainees were almost the only ones to head out, and even they may have only done so because they'd paid in advance!  Andy, Clay and Steve went gear shopping in Fort William.  Carolyn, James, Jamie and myself drove to Kinlochleven.  Jamie went for a walk, whilst Carolyn, James and I had a go at the indoor bouldering.

It wasn't quite the weekend we'd been hoping for, but thank you to all members who came along and made the best that we could of it.  Particular thanks to Steve Graham for organising the winter skills course.



Gareth Williams
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