Roaches Climbing

Members:  Sue Marsden, Craig Marsden, Roisin Maddison, Colin Maddison, Mary Stuart, Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Phillip Hartwell, James Williams, Emily Pitts, Midge Castick.

Guests:  Pete Wilson (Teggs), Mike Whitehurst, Aleks Pawlik, Matt Harrigan .

 

Despite mixed weather reports and winds reaching epic proportions the turnout and stayout at the meet was very good indeed.  

Roger Dyke, due to lead the meet, wasn't feeling up to scratch, so I took over meet leader responsibilities for the day.  I won't describe the disappointment when, one by one, the attendees were told that I was Roger's replacement.  Roger's knowledge of the roaches is legendary and I'm afraid I even forgot my guidebook, so it wasn't quite the same without him to impart useful tips, tricks and insider knowledge.  However, we did all dust ourselves off and get in some super climbing. 

Highlights included an off-route Eliminate descent by Mary, a cameo appearance from Midge Castick and Colin hoovering up the remains of everyone's food in the Roaches Tearoom afterwards. 

Phil, absent from recent meets due to work, was welcomed to the meet and climbed with Andy, who did a runner after 2.5hrs but still managed 4 routes: 

Heather Slab (Severe 3c) - Andy Led pretty much a solo - poor gear, Inverted Staircase (Diff) - Phil led P1  the staircase - Andy got the second pitch -thrutchy chimney, Maud's Garden - Severe 4a - Phil, Runner Route HS 4b 

Aleks led Damascus crack and Maud's garden, seconded by Dave Wylie.  Her first lead at HS, topping out in almost gale force winds.  A good effort indeed and some great pics of the outing. 

Mike led Walleroo at E2 5c. Matt attempted a second, but the overhang proved too much this early in the season, so Mike retrieved the gear via abseil.  Another good photo selection thanks to Dave Wylie's photography skills. 

Damascus crack saw three leads on it from the KMC crew - Aleks, Craig and I all ascended.

Colin led broken slab HS 4b seconded by Craig.  Finally the pair launched themselves up Aqua VS 4b - Colin leading.  

James and Teggs did their own thing away from the rest of us, with James soloing the Eiger and Teggs 'doing mean ol bastard for about the hundredth time' according to James.  

The weather held off until everyone had finished climbing.  Everyone except me, flopping over the top of corner cracks, second lead of the season, just as the heavens opened at 2.30 - predicted by yr.no.  I nearly had to call for Noah.  Matt Harrigan nobly seconded up in big boots.  This provided a stark reminder to follow ones instinct and not be cajoled into 'just one more route'.  We beat a retreat to the cafe with haste. 

A really enjoyable meet.  Thanks everyone.

Emily Pitts