Skye - Glenbrittle Hut

A full house at the Superb Glen Brittle Memorial Hut, which was found to be wonderfully refurbished (for those with a long memory) and immaculate. Perfectly suited for our week of adventuring on the beautiful Isle of Skye. 

Attendees:

Colin M & Mary S

Jo S and Andy S

Gareth W and Lucy W

Jared K & Emily K

Lewis S & Leah H

Mark G & Michelle H

Stevie G

Jess P

Dave W

Rob C

Mark R

Andy L

Stu H & Mich H

Camp Glenbrittle outpost:

Paul L & Rachael

Friday evening and Mich and Stu set off to drive up at a leisurely pace and take a scenic camp on the shores of Loch Lomond enroute, which, despite the midges, comes highly recommended. 

On Saturday, keen for hiking paraphernalia en route, Fort William’s Ellis Brigham paid host, one at a time to pretty much the full KMC team. With supplies established, Jared & Emily went to bag Beinn Buidhe (furthest west munro in Arrochar). Stu & Mich got a taste of Scottish rock grades, midges and ticks in Glen Nevis. Andy and Jo took a Bella Jane boat trip. Mark G and Michelle made a good start on the ridge, walking Sgurr nan Eag and half way to Garbhs Beinn. And a steady flow arrived at the hut and once unpacked and established, talk quickly turned to plans for Sunday. 

The stunning wall to wall sunshine from the previous year was fully expected, so Sunday was a little disappointing with a poor forecast. However, Andy S & Lewis didn't let a bit of pessimism get in the way of their plans to climb Cioch Direct. Stevie, Jess, Stu & Mich opted for a more sensible Amphitheater Arête plan, given the dripping mountain. Andy and Lewis eventually lowered their ambition to match the conditions, to make a string of KMC’ers ascending the chossy Mod. Hmmm, what could go wrong??   

Various scrambling up wet slippery slime slabs ensued to much delight. Jess dislodges a few rocks without issue. However Lewis’s aim was better. The rock bounced off Mich, half-way up the ‘river pitch’, continued to hurtle down and strike Stu perfectly on the elbow as he belayed. Fortunately at least the Gore Tex prevented him noticing the blood loss until he got to the top, 200m of ascent later, to assess the damage. All of the 1st aid excitement meant Mich forgot to pick her phone back up from where she put it down, at the top of the mountain, and only remembered, pretty much at the col. A second, slightly easier ascent of the peak was quickly made.

Most others opted, more sensibly, to walk. Emily and Jared to Sgurr Alasdair via Great Stone Shoot. Mark G., Michelle and Dave walked from the hut down to Rubha an Dùnain. They made a loop around the headland, visiting the chambered cairn, the Dun, the boat channel, the cave and the ruined croft. Afterwards, Michelle and Mark G cycled to the fairy pools with Jared and Emily for a swim. Mark R and Rob walked to Coire a Ghrunda, Sgurr Dubh an Da Beinn and Sgurr Alasdair.

Gareth, Lucie and Andy L walked to Coire a Grunnda, Sgurr Dunb an da Beinn, Sgurr Dubh Mor, Sgurr nan Eag. Colin walked to Sgurr Sgumain and met the others at the top of Amphitheatre Arete. Jo, Leah, Mary walked to the Viking harbor.

On Monday, Andy S recruited a Rasaasay by boat crew of Jo, Lewis, Leah, Dave, Jared and Emily. The walk up to Dùn Caan proved to be rather wet and boggy in places. The weather had been improving a bit as they headed up, but it closed in again just as they were reaching the summit. Dave noted that the conditions were very similar to his previous ascent with the KMC back in 1995! Would he return again after the same interval, when he will be 90? Crew shirkers Robert and Mark R, went to walk Macleod’s Maidens on Durnish, followed by Mark G and Michelle.

Stu and Mich also evaded the crossing, procrastinating so much over birthday celebrations to miss two boats and instead, hatched a plan to kayak to Dunvegan castle across the loch. Upon getting to the shore, the kayak was found to not be so loch-worthy and a plan c, or maybe d was formed to go for a walk to a beach for birthday drinks. They found the sun and watched dolphins, while Jess and Stevie decided a trip over to Glen Sheil for Munro bagging in the clag was the way to go.  

Robert, Mark R and Andy L headed to Neist for some lovely seaside cragging. Upon return to the hut, the advance party reported a terrible un-sanitary deposit left by what is to be assumed a non-climber, having found what they thought was an isolated spot, but in fact was the top of the popular Sonomara. Dismay spread about the chances of another full KMC tick for the superb cracked corner. 

Tuesday morning, Mich and Stu arrived back at the hut, after having camped out on the hill, with the ambition of climbing Pinnacle Ridge and Nasmiths to conclude unfinished business on am Bastier. However the weather had other plans so a retreat and soggy walk to the’ Viking Harbour’ at Rubha an Dùnain, seemed a better plan, which Lewis and Stevie felt they couldn't resist and joined the fun.  

Jess and Andy S also tried for Nasmiths, having got further up the hill than Stu and Mich, they found the rock a bit on the wet side and decided against it. It being the day for it, Robert and Mark went that way to find the clag too. Upon return to the hut, Jess went for a 10k run, which seemed to be on the dryer side of the Cullin. Andy S, not being put off by one failed climb, found a new partner and went to climb Edgeway Sgurr Fheadean with Lewis. They managed two pitches, both of which felt harder than VDiff, the damp rock not helping. Pitch 3 proved to be a little difficult to find where the VDiff went and instead found some exciting VS terrain for their big boots route! After 15m with no decent gear on slippy rock proved too exciting, they decided to head to friendlier ground with the first good nut Andy could get in.

A more relaxed day for Mark R, walking hills to the west and along the coast. Mark G and Michelle made a visit to Portree, while Jared and Emily went to the old man of Storr and Kilt rock to recce.

Head Chef Jo, with a fine team of Souis chefs, made a fabulous feast for a delighted hut group as they returned a little bedraggled. It certainly raised the spirits and the merriment appeared to clear away the clouds. 

On Wednesday Stevie and Mich went to climb Cioch West, Arrow route and Integrity ‘classic link up’ (!) in glorious conditions. Stu walked to Siorn a Cioch and up the Sigur Stone Shoot to take a look at the Dubh Slabs but upon finding wet conditions that way, went over Sgur Alistair, an stack via collies ledge.

Lewis, Leah and Dave headed out into the Black Cuillin. They walked round to Coir' a' Ghrunnda and headed up towards the Lochan. They got slightly distracted by the Charles Rhodes guide, which instructed them to "KEEP LEFT" and stay high. Eventually, they concluded that the obvious route that they'd looked at much lower down was the correct one after all. At the Lochan, they all dipped their feet in the (very cold!) water - hydrotherapy for Leah's ankle. They continued onwards and upwards to the North, to ascend Sgùrr Sgumain. There was an interesting scramble down then up again onto the highest peak of the day (and the island) Sgùrr Alasdair. They found the path to the bealach and descended the Great Stone Chute into Coire Làgan, then walked back to the hut.

Mark R and Robert went to Sgurr a Bhastier, traversed under Am Bhastier then SE ridge but backed off bad step and west ridge, to Sgurr nan Gillean via the gully to right of abseil chimney descent SE ridge. Andy and Jess also headed out that way to Sgurr a Bhastier, Sgurr a Fionn Choire, Bruach na Frithe, traversed under N wall Am Bhastier then up via the SE ridge (downclimbing the bad step!) down from Bealach nan Lice into Coire and joined Bjastier gorge outward path. Jared and Emily headed to Sgurr na Banachdich via Coir an Each then Sgurr Thoramaid, Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, Sgurr a Mhadaidh down via An Dorus.

Paul and Andy L. had an epic 6 hours on the 300 m Diff Jeffreys Dyke with lots of pitching, traversing, more route finding interest and wet basalt! Gareth and Colin had some friendlier fun on Pinnacle Rake (2/3) Scramble then slant rake (1) in descent then Central Buttress ***Diff.

Stu, Mich, Jess, Stevie, Colin, Mary and Dave went to Neist Point on Thursday for some cragging in the sun. Mich contributed to the climbing community by locating the un-sanitary deposit guarding the top of Sonomara and constructed a cairn to make it less offensive. The group made a few safe accents of the route, along with most of the other routes on the buttress.

Gareth stayed at the hut with Lucy who was still feeling unwell. Andy and Jo took a rest day to visit Armadale Gardens and Museum. And Leah and Lewis went for a big food shop, in preparation for Leah’s Friday night dinner banquet!

Friday’ activities consisted of two Talisker Bay teams. Mary, Leah and Dave had a very short walk down to the beach, where the two ladies went for a swim. Mark G and Michelle then joined them, having gone for a slightly longer walk, then Michelle also went for a swim. On the drive back, they stopped briefly at the Talisker distillery so that Mary could buy a birthday gift. Dave noted that there was a special offer on one of the whiskies with a massive discount, though he didn't take advantage of it: the bottle was reduced from £4,500 to just £3,825!

But Sron na Ciche became the ultimate KMC destination of the day. Andy S arrived first and set off up Cioch Direct HS (S 4a in some guidebooks!), just as Mich and Stu arrived. They continued to climb Arrow Route VD, Integrity VS 4c and descended via Sgumain Stone Shoot. Mich and Stu followed up Cioch Direct HS, then went on to gain the Cioch via Cioch Nose S, making a descent via Collies Ledge/South Gulley combo. Upon regrouping at the bottom, questions were asked about the method of gaining the chimney by Mich, as suspect screaming noises were reported to have been heard echoing around the buttress. Mich and Stu claimed to have heard nothing, supposing it must have been a distressed ewe the others could hear. 

Steve made a second accent of Cioch West, this time taking Jess, finishing alternatively on Cioch Nose. (another 'classic link up??) Rob and Mark R also weaved their way up the buttress, following similar lines. 

Colin surveyed the antics with a walk up and around. Going via Coire na Banandich, Sgurr Dearg top, An Stac bypass, Sgurr Mich Connich, Collies Ledge, Sgurr Thearleach, Sgurr Alasdair with a return via Sron na Ciche and campsite. Andy L made a speedy traverse of Sgurr na Banachdich via Coir an Each then Sgurr Thoramaid, Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, Sgurr a Mhadaidh and down via An Dorus.

Unfortunately Gareth and Lucie had to head home, feeling both too unwell which had also now affected Jo, who spent the evening laid up. 

Leah cooked a gourmet Mediterranean medley, assisted by a host of sous chefs, that was much appreciated, especially by the tribe who had been out on the ridge! It was agreed that every day out on the hill, should be greeted by a banquet.

Sat was spent returning the hut to its pristine condition under the careful guidance of Andy, spreadsheet in hand! A quick group pic was managed outside the hut, amidst a cloud of midges before everyone ran back to the safety of their cars to begin the journey home.

Many thanks to everyone who attended to make such a fantastic week of adventuring and fun. Special thanks to Andy for organising so well. It was agreed that the KMC should make more frequent use of the memorial hut. We will endeavor to return in the near future.

Mich