EUMC Hadden-Woodburn Memorial Hut - Gleann Licht
KMC Members: Paul Lonsdale, Gareth Williams, Lucy Williams, John Evans
On a wet and drizzly weekend in September, four KMC members, along with Kanine Mountaineering Club members Henry and Roxy, headed to Gleann Licht to sample the delights of the wonderful and unique accommodation that is Gleann Licht house, aka “the bothy”.
If the thought of arriving back at a cold bothy with no electricity and no guarantee there would be any coal to light a fire after a day out hiking in the rain is of suffering, you really need a meet leader who is going to make it happen. Doesn’t everybody have a “Carp Porter mk2”? A lightweight, collapse, aluminium frame wheel barrow, used to transport fishing tackle and camping equipment in pursuit of really big fish. Loaded up with 20kg of coal, some luxuries and large candles, carrying rucksacks of food, clothing and sleeping equipment, we set off up the forestry track behind the famous Five Sisters Ridge of Glen Shiel.
Gareth, Lucy and Henry had already spent the week in Scotland and bagged a number of Munros prior to the meet. Henry had been suffering from a sore and infected paw, sadly putting him out of action for the trip after an impromptu visit to the vets. Not letting this put an end to their hut visit and week away, they arrived at the approach car park with Henry donning a newly acquired protective boot. By the vets orders of no walking for him, Gareth opted to carry him all the way along the 6km hike to reach the hut. The walk in was wonderful, despite the persistence of the rain and midges. The track follows the river as it sweeps through the valley between rolling hills. The incline was just enough to make the burden of the barrow in addition to a normal hut approach load all the more painful. I persevered in pushing the barrow, with the assistance of Lucy pulling from the front with the aid of a 120cm sling while Gareth plodded along with an impatient spaniel strewn across the back of his neck and shoulders, who was just wanting to have a run around. (see image of me pushing the barrow with Gareth & Henry a few yards behind)
Before long, the hut came in to view. A small stone building, almost like a dorm-a-bungalow, with the only upstairs windows being in the sloping roof. Inside, there wood floors and wood panelled walls and ceiling in two small rooms with a stone fireplace at each end of the hut and the wind rattled between the wood holding the single panes of glass. To the back was a newly fitted commercial kitchen, all stainless steel countertops and cupboards and a gas hob for cooking. On arrival, Henry and Roxy decided it was time for zoomies, as they both charged after each other in the small downstairs rooms, but before long they were snuggled down together on Henry’s cushion. (see image for cuteness) The entertainment for the first evening was the challenge of getting our fire going. Eco coal, made from the pip of olives, took many firelighters and lots blowing into the fireplace for well over an hour before it was generating adequate heat. The hut really lived up to it’s reputation. A remote little gem, tucked away in the hills far from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The conversation by candle light around the dining table took place until nearly midnight, as the terrible forecast of 70mph wind and heavy rain put a halt to any ambitious plans of multi Munro rounds for the next day.
A slow start to Friday was in order. It was gone noon before John, Roxy and I opted to explore out from the comfort of the hut. We opted to go for a short walk up the valley to Allt Cam-ban, where there is also an MBA bothy, called the Camban Bothy. There was a good stream of people walking the opposite direction, who had either stayed at the Camban bothy or camped along the Affric-Kintail Way, connecting the two valleys. Several times we were warned “ it’s really wet up there”. There was lots of water on the paths, and multiple stream crossings had us often veering round over boggy grass. This bothy was much more typical of the term, the graffiti writing, no lockable door and lack of any padding on the sleeping platform made our hut seem luxury in comparison. We only stopped for lunch and to take respite from the weather before setting off to return to the hut to get inside and into dry clothes. Meanwhile, Gareth, Lucy and Henry had stayed at the hut and had a nap, read their books and chatted the hours away, only venturing outside for Henry to go for a wee etc. while trying to keep his paw clean and dry in between salt baths. Gareth had ate his 1st dinner, 1st pudding, 2nd dinner and was just preparing his 2nd pudding when John and I arrived back.
Fortunately the forecast for the Saturday had improved tremendously, but knowing that the Sunday was a return of heavy a down pour, we opted to commit to leaving the hut on Saturday in favour of getting home with some of the weekend still left. Therefore, it felt prudent to use all of the coal on Friday evening to make the most of our reward for hauling it in. Saturday morning arrived and Gareth, Lucy and Henry had called an end to their adventuring and made the walk out to their camper van to embark on the journey home. John and Roxy decided they had an itch to bag a hill, so also walked out to bottom of the valley, instead to start their walk up A’ Glas Bheinn via Bealach Sgairne.
I set myself a solo objective. I felt surely it was in the spirit of a hut meet with a long approach to actually do something form the door of the hut. After a sift through the SMC Munro guide, I had set my sights on the Brothers of Kintail, the eastern brothers of the Five Sisters. Three Munros, usually done as a linear walk off the A87 with a car at each end. Coming at the ridge from the quiet side of Gleann Licht offered a less travelled alternative. I was in complete isolation as not another soul was seen in the valley that morning. My first challenge was to cross a river, which was above it’s typical flow due to the run-off from the sopping wet hills. The crossing shown in the book was impassable, I decided to head up stream. After many abandoned crossing attempts, I finally reached a fork, where the river split and became much more amenable. After adding an additional 45 mins to the day, I was soon navigating my way up steep open hillside to reach the ridge and the first Munro of the day, Saileag.
The rest of the ridge was straight forward, only dropping a little over 100m between the two next hills, Sgùrr a' Bhealaich Dheirg and Aonach Meadhoin . I sensed a change in the weather as the wind picked up and the clouds rolled in. I soared across the ridge high above the road in quick time before making my descent to Bealach a’ Chinch.
The 4th Munro of the day had been on my mind since the start. Ciste Dubh, a prominent hill viewed from the hut earlier, seemed to be the only logical extension to the ridge. As it’s position is quite on it’s own, it seemed now would be the best opportunity to bag this hill without having to come back for it another day. The 400m ascent to gain it’s peak was arduous as I was joined by another group of about 30, who were out to celebrate their friend’s final Munro.
After reaching the summit, the hut came in to view as I descended the North aspect of the hill. At the foot I had to contend another dodgy river crossing. This time I just took the plunge and was in up to my knees as I waded to the bank on the other side, just below the Camban bothy. From here I still had a 6km hike back to the hut. En route back I spotted a field vole, a first for me as I stood only a few feet from it as I stopped on the path, it was not bothered by my presence and was happy nibbling on the vegetation for a few minutes before scurrying off (almost the highlight of the trip).
On arrival at the hut feeling broken, I still had one final mission. As we had burnt all of the coal the previous evening and not wanting to spend a night alone in a cold dark bothy, I had committed to leaving, and again pushing a wheel barrow down a forestry track for 6km. The load was much lighter, but certainly more difficult as legs were aching and now my arms suffering too. I still made the return leg to the car in 1.5 hrs with the thought of the fish and chip van I had spotted at the campsite on arrival, to be utterly disappointed it was not there.
Everybody had already made it home as I was struggling to keep my eyes open on the drive home. I made it as far as Fort William before deciding to retire to a hostel for a decent nights kip.
I’m sure that all participants of the meet would be in agreement, the hut is well worth a visit and I for one will certainly be making a return visit some time in the distant future. Thank you to those who made the trip enjoyable, both human and canine friends. Looking forward to the next one.
Paul
Paul Lonsdale
