Sun 20th May, 2012

Roaches (Newcomers climbing meet I)

Excellent turnout with 24 members and guests in total.

Members: Gareth Williams, Lucie Crouch, Dave Wylie, Roger Dyke, James Williams, Dave Dillon, Simon Robertshaw, Andy Stratford, Al Metelko, Steve Graham, Nick Adamson, Bob Kelly plus late arrivals Dave Shotton, Kate Harvey, plus even later arrivals Kevin Anderson, Rob Clark.

Guests: Philip Jarvis, Clare Hodgson, Mark Pilling, Chris Morrow, Caity Rice, Andrew, Dimitris and Clare.


The fair weather brought the climbing contingent out in force, along with a good few new faces - Philip Jarvis deserving a special mention as his warm up route was The Sloth.

Caity Rice & Clare both did their first lead routes on Prow Cracks (VDiff) and Right Route (VDiff) among others.

Butty of the day award to Clare Hodgson for her full loaf, gutted of bread then stuffed with the entire contents of a six person Greek salad….

Most falls awards went to Gareth with at least 5 from The Wombat (E2 5b) - and still no success! Philip managed to come off Wings of Unreason (E4 6b)… and scraped the floor… Andy fell on the crux of Saul’s crack but did manage to finish it.

Fantastic to see Roger Dyke (see website pics) still out climbing on 3 routes - Right Route, Inverted Staircase and Maud's Garden.

Other routes climbed by the group included West's Wallaby, Pedestal Route, Damascus Crack, Jeffcoat's Chimney, Jeffcoat's Buttress, Crack and Corner, Kelly’s Shelf, Central Route, Black & Tans, Technical Slab, Breakfast Corner, Square Chimney.

Andy Stratford

Meet Promo:

The Roaches offers some of the best and most extensive gritstone climbing at all grades away from the Eastern Edges. We'll base ourselves near The Sloth - always good entertainment value!

There are so many great classics to go at: Mauds Garden (HVD), Wests Wallaby (VS 4c), Black & Tans (S 4a), Test your jamming technique on Sauls Crack (HVS 5a), Damascus Crack (HS 4b) and many many others.

Some of us will be there by 10am - join us when you can.

Keep an eye on the 'scribble' page on the KMC website for a weather update - if Saturday 19th looks good and Sunday 20th looks poor we will change at the last minute. If you don't have web access then text or call Andy on 07702 078555 on the Friday evening.

Newcomers: please visit the Newcomers page for further advice.

Andy Stratford

Roger's enormous tackle (Dave Dillon)
The Sandwedge (Simon Robertshaw)
The Photo Shoot (Dave Dillon)
Steve going for a slap on Kelly's Shelf (Dave Dillon)
Philip on The Sloth (Simon Robertshaw)
Philip under the roof of The Sloth (Dave Dillon)
Mark giving his feet a rest on The Sloth (Dave Dillon)
and onwards, cruising up The Sloth (Dave Dillon)
Knot inspection time (Simon Robertshaw)
Dave discovers a second rope... (Simon Robertshaw)
Roger on Right Route (Simon Robertshaw)
Andy finishing the top of Crack and Corner (Simon Robertshaw)
Dimitris applying limestone boulder techniques for the finale (Dave Dillon)
Gareth on Wombat (Dave Dillon)
Mark on the tower of Damascus Crack (Dave Dillon)
A well happy belayer (Dave Dillon)
Kevin on Saul's Crack (Dave Dillon)
Andy, taking bets (Simon Robertshaw)
Dimitris, feeling grit, thinking limestone (Simon Robertshaw)
Gareth - feeling like an animal on Wombat E2 5c (Lucie Crouch)
Lucie belaying Dave up P1 of Pedestal Route HVD 4a (Dimitris P)
Lucie stretching onto the slab P2 Pedestal Route (Dimitris P)
Chris on Pedestal Route (Dave Dillon)

Copyright © 2013 Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Karabiner Mountaineering Club