Attendees Saturday: Laura Collier, Trish Cranston, Al Metelko, Ben Slater, Nils Elgar, Mirella de Jonge, Agnes Beviz, Toby Brett, Ana Pola, Melanie Séverin, Phil Hartwell, Anisa Aslam, Hong Thoong, Emily Pitts, Colin Maddison.

Attendees Sunday:Eleanor Owens, Phil Hartwell, Ben slater, Seb queva, Katarina Anner, Katharina Lauer, Beth Thomas, Alex Cardus, Jo McSwaine, Christine Beeston, Cathy Devine, Michelle Harvey, Sabine Cosulich, Cathy Gordon, Sue Marsden, Craig Marsden, Phoebe Marsden, Carys Mapleson, Sheena Hendrie, Dave Dillon.

This really was a charming meet; a meet of two halves really, with a sunny day on the Saturday and a somewhat more drizzle infused affair on the Sunday. There are several items of note from this meet.  Firstly, a thank you to the ever-entertaining Phil Hartwell who was one of two people (the other being me) who followed meet instructions and turned up in 70’s style fancy dress. Phil danced, punk-style, up the grit buttresses, all day Saturday and Sunday. Sunday saw a rather lovely meeting of the LLC at the top of the crag, armed with mountains of cake, smiles and engaging conversation. I believe Wavey had his camera out, so there should be a record of this knocking around.  

Back to Saturday: several prospective members joined us with ringleader Mirella de Jonge, who has since moved to Detroit.  Both Agnes Beviz and Melanie Séverin did their first leads, on Twisted Crack and Frosty, respectively.  Brilliant work.

My record from this meet are sadly lacking, with only two further pieces of useful information.

Mirella’s leads of Twisted Crack S 4a and Inaccessible Crack VS 4a were marvellous considering she started leading less than a month earlier and climbing only a handful of months before that; considerable achievements. 

Which leads to the final and quite breathtaking achievement of the day.  If you take a look at the meet promo, a number of challenges were listed.  Number one looked like this:

Challenge 1:  70 routes over the whole weekend (lead or second)

One of our number decided that seventy routes over a whole weekend wasn’t quite enough of a challenge and set off early doors on Saturday to work right to left along the crag, soloing whatever was available.  That individual was Colin Maddison and at around 3pm, he rocked up to the group in fine fettle, having polished off something in the region of 60 routes.  He continued to amble up routes, until he reached the final number of 73 routes. 73 routes in one day is quite something.

Colin’s record of this brilliant feat has sat quietly in my inbox for nearly 4 years, so here it is, to add to the KMC records. Nice work Colin.

Popular End:
Flying Buttress 20 m VD
Flying Buttress Gully 16m D
Jitterbug Buttress 12 m S
Jitter Face 13m VD
The Kirkus Original 12 m VS 4c
Castle Chimney 20m M
Black Hawk Hell Crack 14 S
Blizzard Chimney 16m D
Two Tier Climb 8m VD
Cool Groove 10m S
Crack and Corner 15m HVD
Physiology 13m VD
Anatomy 13m VD ↓
Sociology 13m S
Grotto Slab 18m D ↓
Little Ernie 8m S
Capstone Chimney 8m D ↓
Right Wall Route 10m HVD
Recess Wall 10m HVD
Grotto Slab 18m D ↓
Hoaxer’s Crack 7m S
Black Chimney 9m M ↓
Trivial Pursuit/Small Crack 6m S/D
Small Crack 6m D ↓
Plate Glass 6m S
Mantlepiece Buttress 7m M ↓
Mantlepiece Right 7m D
Zip Crack 6m M
Monkey Crack 6m D
Square Chimney 6m M ↓
Square Buttress Wall 6m S

High Neb:
Neb Corner 11m D
Limbo 12m S
Tango Crack 12m VD
Tango Buttress 12m HS 5a
Mantleshelf Climb 14m D
Typical Grit 6m VD
Ami 14m M
Boyd’s Crack 12m M
Eckhard’s Arête 12m S

Stanage End:
The Pinion 14m VD
The Rack 11m D
Another Turn 11m S
The Green Streak 12m HVS 4c
Prospero’s Climb 12m VD
Miranda’s Variation 12m VD
The Crab Crawl 11m S
Doctor’s Chimney 18m VD
Manhatten Chimney 6m D
Manhatten Arête 6m D ↓
Cripple’s Crack 13m HVD
The Ariel 14m VD
The Green Streak 12m HVS 4c
The Ariel Direct 12m VD

Old Salt Area:
Twin Cracks 6m VD

Cleft Buttress:
Richard’s Sister 8m S

Crow Chin:
Kelly’s Crack 10m D
Kelly’s Eliminate 10m D
October Crack 10m D
October Slab 10m S
Bright Eyed 9m VS 4b
Bent Crack 10m HD

Twin Buttress Area:
Bow Crack 7m HD
Quadrille 6m S
Meson 9m VD
X- Ray 7m HS
Beanpod 6m S
Heather Crack 6m HVD
Deep Chimney 7m D↓

Blurter Buttress Area:
Uno Crack 9m D
Duo Crack Climb 9m D
Ono 8m S
Aries 10m S

***Small change to arrangements***  Meet leader will NOT be camping Friday night, but making some cakes instead.  Meet as per instructions below on Saturday morning 10amish - near to Anniversary Buttress close to High Neb.  Please book your camping, as spaces fill up quickly.  Info below. 

On the occasion of KMCs seventieth year what better way to celebrate than a weekend at our treasured queen of the crags, Stanage Edge. 

To mark the occasion we have a selection of daytime climbing challenges from which to choose:

Challenge 1:  70 routes over the whole weekend (lead or second)

Challenge 2:  As a pair, 70 routes in a day (35 each!)

Challenge 3:  Required - a band of 14 merry (wo)men to lead the way up 70 routes - ten routes in each grade banding, so one grade banding per pair – Mod, Diff, VDiff, Severe, VS, HVS, E1.  Eeeks, who’s on the E1s?

Challenge 4:  Make up your own ‘Stanage Seventies’ challenge – most inventive wins a prize.

Seventies Attire:  Optional, but much preferred – there will be a prize for best dressed.  Special attention will be given to anyone sporting an Afro or seventies tash.

Saturday Evening
We will be camping at North Lees campsite and enjoying a party celebration atmosphere with a seventies theme.  Think Cheese and pineapple on sticks, melon balls and Harvey’s Bristol Cream!  Bring your own food and join in the mêlée from 7pm.  Lights down at 10pm as per the campsite rules.

Practicalities
Camping on Friday night and Saturday night at North Lees campsite.  You should book in advance as it gets booked up. 

“North Lees Campsite is located in a sheltered valley, 1.5 miles north of Hathersage and is within a short walking distance of Stanage Edge.”

North Lees Campsite


Birley Lane
, Hathersage

Hope Valley
, Derbyshire
, S32 1BR

Grid reference: SK235832

Latitude: 53.345267

Longitude: -1.64821

Easting: 423518.015

Northing: 383210.086

It costs £7.50 per adult, plus £2 for cars. You can book a place at the campsite by telephoning on 01433 650 838.  Further info at peakdistrict.co.uk.

If very wet, I’ll hold an open house on Friday &/or Saturday night for anyone to crash with their sleeping bag.  We will sort out an alternative indoor or outdoor venue if rain stops play at Stanage.  Watch the scribble, email meet leader or come back to this page for an update.  

Saturday morning meetup spot from 10am (ish) (or earlier for anyone wishing to catch the larks) – Somewhere around the aptly named Anniversary Buttress – close to High Neb.

Sunday morning meetup spot from 10am (ish) – Some in the Unconquerables area. 

Not sure how to find us on the day?  Look for the neon hoodie and red hair and you won’t go far wrong.

For further info or to let us know you’re coming, add yourself on the Add-Me at the bottom of the page or contact meet leader Emily via the contacts page.

Dust off your flares, kipper ties, leg warmers, wide lapels and tank tops and join us for the climb and party of the KMC year!