Sun 25th Jun, 2017

Llangollen Limestone

Colin Maddison

Members: Colin Maddison, Dan O’Brien, Dave Shotton

Guests: Richard Applegate, Kerry Bourne

It was a damp and gloomy morning as I left Manchester in the hope of better weather further west. The hope was realised as I passed Helsby in brighter conditions on a dry road only to be lost again in the mist and drizzle of the Wrexham bypass.

A small and group assembled in the layby below Trevor Quarry unconvinced by a brief brightening that was soon replaced by leaden skies and light rain. But a sense of duty demanded a crag inspection so we headed up the incline to Suspect Wall. As suspected it was wet.

Texts received from would be attenders enquiring on the conditions were responded to with texts that were neither entirely true nor entirely untrue! In the event Duncan and Vicky made it as far as Craig and Sue’s who in turn made it as far as their front door to let them in out of the rain.

The crag inspection complete Richard and Kerry opted for a walk to the castle in hope of better conditions later that were not to come.

For the meet leader honour demanded something was done for the meet report so I lead a wet ‘Clue, So?’ (F4c). As Dan pulled the ropes and followed suit a short brightening even began to dry the rock. But the rain returned in earnest to curtail Dave’s attempt at the second bolt.

So Dave departed to join Richard and Kerry and I lead the now even wetter route again to retrieve the quick draws and the meet was done. All that remained was the drive back to join the aforementioned would be attenders who’d had the sense to go to Stockport Wall instead.

Colin Maddison

Meet Promo:

This proved popular in 2016 so is worthy of another visit.

Trevor Rocks provides ten limestone walls and buttresses along the escarpment overlooking Llangollen.  The climbing is mainly single pitch sport routes but there is some trad, particularly in the main quarry, so you may want to bring a rack.

It’s a beautiful area with fine views that provides a great setting for climbing. There are plenty of starred routes at a range of grades so why not try somewhere different from you usual haunts. Any walkers that want to drop in on the meet will also find the area well worth a visit.

Approach by following the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a side road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left below the distinctive square cut main quarry.

NB: Please do not take vehicles up or park on the track that leads up behind the main quarry.

I propose we start at the Suspect Wall area but we can work our way along the escarpment during the day as the mood takes us. I’ll aim to be at Suspect Wall by 10.30am.

From the layby follow the obvious incline running diagonally up leftwards (as you look inwards) to join a path that traverses the hillside below the crags. Turn left along this track and Suspect Wall is the first buttress you come to – see map.

For further information see -

Guidebook - Clwyd Limestone by Mark Glaister and Lee Proctor (Rockfax 2015)

Colin Maddison

Rather damp! (Colin Maddison)
Rather misty! (Colin Maddison)
Before the rain set in. Dan O'Brian on 'Clue, So'. (Colin Maddison)
Colin starts up Clue, So (Dave Shotton)
Colin gains height on Clue, So (Dave Shotton)
Colin works it out on Clue, So (Dave Shotton)
Colin looking quizzical on Clue, So (Dave Shotton)
Sheltering from the rain at Trevor Rocks (Dave Shotton)
The bedraggled gatekeeper of Castell Dinas Brân (aka Crow Castle) (Dave Shotton)
Throwing shapes at Castell Dinas Brân (Dave Shotton)
Richard exploring Castell Dinas Brân (Dave Shotton)
Castell Dinas Brân in the mist (Dave Shotton)

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Karabiner Mountaineering Club