Sun 25th Jun, 2017
This proved popular in 2016 so is worthy of another visit.
Trevor Rocks provides ten limestone walls and buttresses along the escarpment overlooking Llangollen. The climbing is mainly single pitch sport routes but there is some trad, particularly in the main quarry, so you may want to bring a rack.
It’s a beautiful area with fine views that provides a great setting for climbing. There are plenty of starred routes at a range of grades so why not try somewhere different from you usual haunts. Any walkers that want to drop in on the meet will also find the area well worth a visit.
Approach by following the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a side road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left below the distinctive square cut main quarry.
NB: Please do not take vehicles up or park on the track that leads up behind the main quarry.
I propose we start at the Suspect Wall area but we can work our way along the escarpment during the day as the mood takes us. I’ll aim to be at Suspect Wall by 10.30am.
From the layby follow the obvious incline running diagonally up leftwards (as you look inwards) to join a path that traverses the hillside below the crags. Turn left along this track and Suspect Wall is the first buttress you come to – see map.
For further information see - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=427
Guidebook - Clwyd Limestone by Mark Glaister and Lee Proctor (Rockfax 2015)