Sat 7th Jan, 2023

Dry tooling at masson Lees

Adam McCudden

The Cave of Dreams was probably the busiest crag in The Peak during yesterday's deluge. KMC club members bagged leads on Hook me up (D5+) and The Warm-Up (D6), and Gareth gave Sick Boy (D9) a couple of solid tries, nailing the beta for the first half of the route in the process. Most of the action was down on Mount Chossmore, with Gareth, Mich, Adam, Ged and Stuart racking up over 30 reps on the two harder top rope routes: Insubsteintial (D4+) and Without Substance or Gear (D5) in training for next month's Norway trip. Stuart and Mich also gave one the crag's more 'interesting' lines a crack.

Adam McCudden

Meet Promo:

Day meet - Meet at 9:30am on Matlock Spa Road opposite/up the hill from the Sainsbury’s petrol station (DE4 3TA, 53.139792, -1.564454).

Join us at The Crag of Dreams for some perma-dry-tooling action.  Thanks to the increased number of tooling routes, which now start at a more amenable D2 (M2) making Masson a fantastic place to try out dry-tooling, or train for hard winter climbing. As the majority of the routes are sheltered from the wind and rain by the cave, the meet will go ahead whatever the weather, but on the off chance it’s dry, it’s worth packing your rock shoes, as the sport climbing at the crag is also worth a look.

Helmets are mandatory at Masson, and thin gloves and safety spec are recommended. If you have winter or tooling gear bring it with you. If not, don’t worry folks are usually happy for you to borrow theirs.

As there are currently issues around parking at the crag (Salters Lane, Matlock -  53.131554, -1.580387):

  • Please car share to the crag, even if only from Matlock (there is plenty of space to park on Matlock Spa Road opposite/up the hill from the Sainsbury’s petrol station).
  • If you can’t car share or park down te hill, please park responsibly: don’t block access to any of the gates, on on the farm track.

Here’s a link to the guidebook:

Any questions, drop me a line

Adam McCudden

Adam McCudden

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