Thu 1st Jan, 1970

Dovestones stands proud above the reservoir that bears its name in the Chew valley area, the best guidebook being ‘’Over the Moors’’, although it is also in ‘’Western Grit’’. Parking can either be at the Reservoir (£4) with a walk-in up via the Cairn on the Fox’s Stone or at Binn Green (free but more limited). The walk-in from Binn Green always seems steeper somehow….

Dovey is a Moorland evening crag par excellence with great sun potential – there are a host of routes at amenable grades working left to right highly recommended are: Coopers Crack (S 4b), Nasal Buttress (HS 4b), Central Tower (VDiff), Tower Arete (VS 4c), Left Embrasure (VS 4b), Noddys Wall (VS 4b), Swan Crack (HVD), Layback Crack (HS 4b), Answer Crack (HVD), Question Mark (S 4a) and the ultra classic jamming testpiece of Hanging Crack (E2 5b).

Answer Crack at HVD is probably one of the best routes of its grade in the peak.

It’s a place to try to arrive reasonably early to make the most of the late afternoon sunshine – and hope for a breeze to keep the midges off. or bring a head net and / or repellent! I’ll be aiming to be parked up for 3 pm and climbing by 4 pm, but it is long summer evenings now, so it is worth even being at the crag for 6.30 – you will still get a good three hours climbing in.

If you have any questions drop me a line.

Keep an eye on the KMC WhatsApp groups for the latest info and who is coming.

Andy Stratford

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