Joint Karabiner/Rucksack meet at Craigallan, 13-15th March 2026

Attendance: JJ Ashley (RC guest), Jess Bailey (KMC), Andy Barlass (RC), Robert Faye (IMC and RC guest), Nick Fendall (RC), Joe Fisher (RC), Becca Gardner (KMC), Steve Graham (KMC), Harry Potts (KMC), Andy Lewtas (KMC), Gareth Llewellyn (RC), Paul Lonsdale (KMC), Sophie Owen (RC guest), Jack Robinson (RC guest), Andy Stratford (KMC), Gareth Williams (KMC/RC and meet leader).

Some time before the meet, we learnt that the Craigallan kitchen refurbishment was to take place in the 2 weeks prior to the meet. I thought "that'll teach me to start a meet on Friday 13th" but thanks to the expert project management of Gareth L, the work finished early, allowing Andy S and myself to arrive a day early. We were keen to climb on Ben Nevis but there had been a dump of snow overnight (and a sprinkling even down at Craigallan). With the strong south westerly winds to blow the snow off the summit and over the north face, we both felt the north face would be a hazardous place to be. We though climbing would be off the agenda until Andy remembered Coire Ghaimhnean, an area well away from the north face which is being quietly developed in preparation for the next Ben Nevis guidebook. It was tempting to try one of the new routes which hadn't yet been repeated, but instead we were tempted by a buttress with nothing previously recorded on it. We took the most obvious line which was a mixed route up a series of slabs with some awkward and poorly protected steps. At the top of the first pitch is a lovely open book corner; Andy was drawn to it, but it was much harder than the rest of the route. After dangling around on his clipper leash for a while, he reverted back to picking the easiest line through the slabs. Another two pitches of mixed climbing brought us to the top of the route and we easily picked up the main path back down the mountain. We named our creation Numb Thumb; in the conditions it felt somewhere between II and III so we graded it as II thinking that would be nearer the mark in perfect conditions. We have submitted the route to the SMC and perhaps it will appear in the next guidebook. Even if not, we had a great day out exploring a new area and trying our hand at a line we had no information on.

Gareth L, having spent 2 weeks living between Craigallan and Water's Cottage in Kinlochleven sorting the kitchen, decided he would head home early. Perhaps wise, given the forecast? To be honest I was amazed it hadn't deterred people from coming, but there wasn't a single drop out due to weather. People began to gradually arrive on the Friday afternoon/evening, and a team effort was soon underway to cook the veggie chilli which would be Saturday's communal evening meal. The kitchen was hailed a great success by all who used it.

Saturday dawned wet and windy. Different teams had different objectives. Hoping the conditions on the north face of Ben Nevis would have improved, two parties set out to climb there. Andy B and JJ climbed Gutless on the Douglas Boulder, by the sound of it the highlight was JJ's "enthusiasm" for grovelling up the chimney pitch, followed but its exit onto a sketchy sounding slabby corner afterwards. Joe, Sophie and Jack climbed Castle Ridge, reporting a bit of swimming at times but seemed to enjoy themselves. Both teams agreed careful choice of route was needed given the snow conditions. Becca, Harry and Nick opted for a scrambling/walking day, making an ascent of School House Ridge and taking in both Munro summits of Beinn a Bheithir. Andy L, Steve, Paul and Gareth W headed to Stob Ban to climb the east ridge of its north buttress. A fine mountaineering day and a great suggestion from Paul in the conditions, we climbed as two pairs and it was great to see everyone getting stuck in leading various pitches. Steve enjoyed it so much he climbed on pitch twice, having gone quite some way before noticing his crampon had fallen off he then had to go back down searching for it! Jess and Andy S had taken the climber's gondola up Aonach Mor to climb Western Rib. They enjoyed themselves so much that they missed the last gondola back down and had to walk.

We were all glad that the chilli had been made the previous evening, all it needed was a quick warm-up and some rice cooking to go with it. Robert, who was traveling further north and was using Craigallan to break his journey arrived in time for the meal, and enjoyed hearing all about the climbing exploits of the day. The two teams who had been on The Ben arrived back late and were very glad to be greeted with food already on the table.

Sunday dawned even wetter and even windier, and by now enthusiasm for it was wearing a little thin. After a lazy start and good clean of the hut, people packed up and headed home. I stopped en-route for a quick walk up the Corbett Beinn Bhreac-liath in Glen Orchy. Thank you to everyone who came along despite the poor weather forecast, and particular thanks to Gareth L for his hard work sorting out the kitchen in time for the meet.

Craigallan, owned by the Rucksack Club, has an idyllic situation on the shore of Loch Linnhe, in North Ballachulish. Many of Scotland’s prime winter climbing venues are an option from Craigallan, with very easy access to Glencoe and Fort William, and Creag Meagaidh in reasonable striking distance. As always conditions can be variable in Scotland but mid-March is often a good time of year for some late-season ice on Ben Nevis.

For non-climbers there is a wealth of Munros and Corbetts nearby, with easy access to the Glencoe and Glen Etive hills, Glen Nevis classics such as the Ring of Steall and countless other options. For the more adventurous walker there are plenty of scrambling/mountaineering options such as the classic Aonach Eagach ridge.

If you have recently attended a Winter Skills training course this would be an ideal meet to come and practise what you learnt. If you don’t have any prior experience of Scottish winter, or limited experience, you may be more limited in what is appropriate for you on this meet but there are still plenty of options without heading high up into the hills. Please contact me (Gareth Williams) for more information before booking onto the meet if your experience is limited.

More information about Craigallan is available on the RC website. GPS coordinates for the hut are 56.68595, -5.21820, access into the hut is around the back a short way up a gravel track. I will be travelling up on the Friday after work and staying 2 nights. In the first instance I will restrict KMC bookings to 8, to ensure we leave some bedspaces for the Rucksack Club. Closer to the time if they remain unfilled I will open them up to the KMC.

This meet is available to full and associate members only.

Gareth