Attendees: Jess Bailey, Robert Clark, Mich Harrison, Will Fitzmaurice, Jake Fletcher, Steve Lopacki, Josh Luhr, Colin Maddison, Rory Marsden, Jess Pealing, Andy Stratford.

So is Burbage North the best evening crag in the Peak District?

This was neither confirmed nor denied by this meet’s attendees, however everyone did seem to be having a good time. The sun was shining. Serious consideration was given to whether it was “too hot” to climb and therefore the meet location should be revised to a convenient beer garden. In the end climbing prevailed and the hardy members of KMC decided to tough it out in the harsh conditions, with the proviso that Beer O’clock would be called at the first sign of a midge!

Although designated as an evening meet, the breakfast club of Mich, Jess P, Andy, Colin, Robert and Jake had all arrived by early afternoon. Mich and Jess climbed Still Orange (S 4a), Bilberry Arete (S 4a) and Falstaff’s Innominate (S 4a) before being joined by Robert for Big Chimney Arete (HS 4b) and The Big Chimney (HVD or HS 4a depending on your guidebook). The general consensus seemed to be that Hard Severe is about right for The Big Chimney. A worthwhile route but a challenge for any V Diff leader.

Jess and Mich decided it was time for refreshments so Robert teamed up with Jake for a round of some crag classics. Alternating leads Jake then Rob on, Knights Move (HVS 5a), Great Crack (VS 5a), Greeny Crack (VS 4b) and Brooks Layback (HS 4b) also with Josh.

Andy and Colin had been seeking out shade in the trees wherever possible. Andy led Greeny Crack (VS 4b), Brooks Layback (HS 4b) and Submission (VS 5a), while Colin led Amazon Crack (HS 4b) and Big Chimney Arete (HS 4a).

Andy also manged to fit in climbs with Jess B leading Still Orange (S 4a) and Will leading Hollyash Crack (VS 4b),

Steve and I had arrived “late” (4pm) so only had time for, Knights Move (HVS 5a), Great Crack (VS 5a), Hollyash Crack (VS 4b) with a big cam, and Big Chimney Arete (HS 4a). Having had a rest on my first attempt at Knights Move I then went for a much more enjoyable, and cooler, second go with Jess B this time on second.

The routes at Burbage North really are fantastic. Every route was thoroughly enjoyed with Greeny Crack and Great Crack (what a move into the layback) getting a lot of love. There was also a lot of love from those leading Hollyash Crack for the big green Black Diamond cam and the irresistible urge to get intimate with the crag.

In spite of 8 previous visits to the crag and having logged over 50 routes there, Andy led four routes that he had not climbed previously, Greeny Crack, Brooks Layback (how had you not done this before Andy?), The Artist and Submission. This was a great topic for conversation in the pub. Do we just climb the same classic routes at each crag? Are the less travelled routes just as worthwhile? Are there any crags (not Windgather) where collectively the KMC have climbed all the routes?

Sadly there wasn’t enough time or beer to come up with the answers so we’ll have to do it all again next week.

Is this the best evening crag in the Peak District?

Short walk-in. Friendly routes. Quality rock. Evening sun. Picturesque setting. Routes or bouldering. What more could you want.

Park at Burbage Bridge.

The meet will start at the Knight’s Move area which is convenient for favourites such as Knight’s Move, Hollyash Crack, Black Slab, Brook’s Layback, Amazon Crack, Greeny Crack, Long Tall Sally, and many more.

Hope to see you there!