Lagangarbh Hut, Glencoe

Members present: Dave Lygate, Sean Kelly, James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle, Brian Street.

Guests: Andrew Ketley, Rachel Ketley.

 

Friday 27th February

Dave Lygate and I had a plan! We had a leisurely departure from Didsbury and headed up to the Lakes. The plan was to whip up Hellvelyn via Striding Edge. We parked in a very tranquil Glen Ridding (plenty of parking and no crowds) then set off on the slog upwards. It quickly became apparent to me that Dave's idea of whipping up Hellvelyn was somewhat different to my own. Armed with his trekking poles, Dave shot off up the hill oblivious to the fact that it was fairly steep and sustained going! The click, click click of his trekking poles on the stony path bizarrely reminded me of the sound of my gran knitting (she was quite quick at knitting!) On nearing the ridge we met a guy coming back down. "Don't suppose you've seen any glasses have you?" he enquired. We hadn't but we offered to help him look, in truth not thinking how far down he might have lost them! He declined our offer but before we left him, we confirmed that he could indeed see well enough to find the mislaid specs.

There was still some patchy snow along the top and although in the cloud, Striding Edge was devoid of people - a first for me on this route! Hence we were able to quickly traverse the ridge and plod up to the summit of Hellvelyn for a well-earned break before heading back down to the car. A quick change and we were heading off North to Scotland to arrive at the King House by 9pm to meet up with Sean Kelly and a pint of 80/

Sean had been in Scotland all week and over our drinks, he cheered our weary souls with tales of relentless rain and wind (he had even been blow off his belay seat at one stage). That day Sean had made an attempt on Ben Lui and had managed to cross a few burns in spate but when he found himself up to his thighs in water he finally decided to retreat.

The three of us headed back to the Lagangarbh hut and found the home fire already burning and the other four members of our party already in residence. In addition, a party of about eight jovial souls from the SMC were also staying at the hut.

At something like 10.30pm, James popped his head into the room to say that Andrew had got his car stuck on the track. The story goes that Rachel had lost her head band whilst bringing gear up to the hut and Andrew had moved the car to use the headlights to find it. For those that have had the pleasure of parking at the Lagangarbh, it is not for the faint hearted (or owners of low slung cars)! A careless manoeuvre will quite happily remove your exhaust quicker than a quick-fit-fitter. Andrew had, however, avoided the rocks but had found a decent patch of mud in which he was well and truly stuck. James jumped forth to the rescue in his own car and a toe rope but alas, with half a burned out clutch it seemed to be to no avail. In desperation the AA were called. Surely this is a record (even for the KMC)! To have an epic getting from the car to the hut, almost benighted in the car park, emergency rescue called. er? did I mention that I had a part-time job making up stories for the tabloids. There is a happy ending though. James discovered that whilst his car was in gear and revving it's little engine out, Andrew's car was in neutral and sat like a dead weight. Armed with this new information, with two cars working in unison there was success. The AA was cancelled (or so they thought) and all retired back to the hut for some well earned alcohol. Plans were made for the next day (which were changed anyway), more drink and then bed.

 

Saturday 28th February

Our combined forecasts were for an overcast Saturday with showers but for a more promising Sunday. Did that deter us? Well? not yet!

Dave, Sean and myself set out to do a gully approach to Bidean nam bian. After a couple of hours or so of walking through the waterlogged valley, we found ourselves looking up at the steep accent to the snow filled gully which disappeared into the mist. As we ate lunch, Sean reminisced about the last time that he had done this route with perfect neve and clear blue skies. He then promptly packed up his lunch and headed back down the valley!

Undeterred, Dave and I climbed up the steep slopes until we reached the first of the snow, which was horribly wet. Unfortunately the snow did not improve greatly as we climbed higher. However, we could see that the ridge was not far off but alas? the snow virtually disappeared in the last 30 feet leaving wet, sloping or vertical rock between us and the ridge. I could feel an epic coming on! Dave took a route to the left and from his cussing I thought that I was better off moving to the right where I thought the vertical rock might yield an easy climb to the top. Appearances can be deceptive! I reached the vertical rock with some difficulty but found the hopeful route to be a tad more difficult than it had looked especially with the rock running with melted snow water! Dave meanwhile was telling me not to come the way he had taken as it was "desperate". I fancied my choice of route even less. One slip and it was a long way back down on the wet snow in the gully. I reversed the few moves I had made and found that Dave had managed to surmount the cornice (he later said that he had used his trekking poles to spread the weight for his knee as he pulled over - such was the poor condition of the snow). From his new vantage point, Dave said that if we had taken the next gully to the left there was a much easier exit route. The words "oh bugger" did come to mind. With Dave urging me not to take the route he had just taken I was resigned to retrace my steps back down the route we had just come which was in itself none too easy. In any event, once on the slope, I got into a steady rhythm and was soon back down to where we had stopped for lunch.

Dave completed the route and came back down the lost valley to meet back up at the car. All safe and well and another escapade to chalk up to experience!

On the same day, James and Kasia went to climb Broad Gully but found the snow conditions to be similar to those encountered by us. Having disappeared up to their waists several times they decided on an alternative plan and practiced making snow bollards, glissading and other such antics. Thus we all returned back to the hut and made more plans, over beer and wine, on what to do with the fine sunny Sunday that was forecast?.

 

Sunday 1st March

The weather was the same as Saturday - robbed again! On the plus side, two days in Scotland with only a bit of rain - not bad! Sean made a start on his long journey back to Devon (didn't envy him there). Andrew and Rachel had decided to stay another day but today's plan was to walk up to the start of the Aonach Eagach ridge. James and Kasia decided upon the Ice Factor. Dave and myself opted to climb up the Buckle via the central gully since it was on our doorstep and would be a quick route before the drive home. Today the temperature was colder and when we reached the snow line, to our relief, it was in much better condition than the day before. It was therefore a very pleasant climb up the snow to the col and then a plod up to the summit. Occasionally the cloud even parted enough for us to see the lovely views? but only briefly! Nonetheless we felt very satisfied to have done a very nice half-day outing (epic-free!) before we headed back home.

Thanks to all who attended - good company, food, wine and venue - what more can one ask for!

Brian Street