Dovestones Edge. Newcomers Welcome!
Members: Mark Ashley, Christine Beeston, Roger Dyke, Ding Koy, Colin Maddison, Al Metelko, Carolyn Mills, Dave Shotton, Jim Symon, Dave Whittingham, James Williams, Dave Wylie.
Guests: Nick Adamson, Lorna Diggle, Jason Hardy, Kate Harvey, Paul Marsden.
Despite an unpromising start – an overall dampness with a few spots of rain, greasy rock covered in green slime, and the tea van not yet open for business in the car park at 10 o’clock – this turned out to be a well-attended meet with a few new faces. The weather gradually improved over the course of the day, turning to cloudy but dry and then on to sunny but cold and windy (which at least dried the rock out!).
Mark, Ding and Jason arrived first at the crag followed closely by Kate, Lorna, Roger and meet leader Dave S. After some doubtful inspection of luminous green rock at the western end of the crag, Mark set the ball rolling around 11 o’clock by leading the fist-wide crack of Question Mark (HVD), belayed by Ding and followed by various others including newcomers Jason and Lorna. Carolyn arrived at the crag, along with Paul and Nick, and led Answer Crack (HVD), a companion route sharing its finish with Question Mark, similarly graded but more technical up a thin flake-crack; likewise this was followed by various people, including Jason, Lorna and Paul all in good style on their first outing with the KMC.
The meet leader wasn’t too impressed by the green start to the top pitch of Tower Ridge (VD), which finally fell to Mark (perhaps it had dried out a bit more by then…) seconded by Nick. Mark also led the pleasant First Triplet (S), with its peculiar ‘cobbler’s last’ hold near the top, seconded by Dave S.
The crag was getting busier not to mention drier by now, and action was concentrated at the eastern end of the crag. Dave Wylie had led the lower part of Swan Crack (HVD) earlier on and brought various seconds up the lower slab to his belaying ledge, and Jim finally managed the higher polished crack to complete the route.
The rather cold conditions led Roger, Kate, Dave Wylie and Christine to go for a walk round the reservoir, a similar plan also being adopted independently by Dave Whittingham (out on his first meet in a long time!). This was apparently followed by a quick visit to The Clarence in Greenfield on the way home.
Meanwhile back on the crag, routes were being climbed thick and fast, often receiving mass ascents! Mark led Noddy’s Wall (HS 4b), not to be confused with Nobbly Wall (HVD) which was also climbed several times. Carolyn and Nick climbed Central Tower (VD) and Matchstick Crack (S). The splendid nose (the clue’s in the name!) of Nasal Buttress (HS 4b) received leads by Colin, Jim and Mark, and numerous ascents by others. (The sun was out at by this stage of the day, accompanied unfortunately by strong winds which for some reason seemed to create a pronounced eddy effect around Nasal Buttress in particular!).
I lost track slightly of who did what around this time, so apologies to any noteworthy deeds I’ve left out. However I did observe that Nick led the surprisingly tricky Cooper’s Crack (S 4b, where ‘S’ may well stand for ‘sandbag’) – the awkward overhanging corner crack at the start certainly gave Al pause for thought when he seconded it! I also led The Direct Route (a more amenable HD) seconded by Ding.
Various attendees had departed by 5-6 p.m. Colin had earlier led Left Embrasure (VS 4b), a lead now repeated by Al seconded by Nick. James provided a heart-stopping moment (for himself and onlookers, including Al on the adjacent route) by taking a leader fall from the notoriously tricky top section of Right Embrasure (VS 4c), just above the awkward overhanging wide crack and some way above a couple of cams. Despite striking a rock ledge a glancing blow with his helmet on rope stretch and then ending up only just above his belayer Colin, he was fortunately unhurt if slightly shaken. Colin stepped in to lead the route in steady fashion with the added security of an additional large cam higher in the wide crack, gamely followed by the dauntless James and then Jim. Mark, Jason and Ding had still been busy around Nasal Buttress and unaware of the drama until they passed by on their way home! They were closely followed by the others who decided to call it a day after this dramatic finish. (The sun was shining and the tea and ice-cream vans were still serving on return to the car park, although James had a final unwelcome surprise in store as he had forgotten to pay-and-display and came down to find a fixed penalty notice on his windscreen. I pointed out helpfully from personal experience that it was at least better than having his car towed away however…) As with the others earlier on, James, Colin, Al, Nick, Jim and Dave S also called in at The Clarence on the way home.
All in all, an active and eventful day with a good turnout despite the off-putting conditions early on. Thanks to those who came along to this as their first KMC meet, we hope to see you again soon. Good also to see a few older faces getting out again!
Dave Shotton
