Lundy. (8 days)

All places were sold out - even oversubscribed! Next time, do commit at least two months before since places go fast... 8 people were packed into three cars and the adventure began! Rolling down the M56 in Al's car, a vibration was felt - "oh a balance wieght must have dropped off", or "is the bearing going". A brave decision to continue at a reduced pace... "Isn't it getting worse?" Somewhere on the M5, now down to less than 50mph, "bang" - blowout! OK, let's change the tire then - not so easy! The concerted efforts of three men couldn't release the spare wheel with the supplied (useless) tool. A tip when buying a new car - if it has a spare wheel under the car, don't! Or else check you can get the wheel out every few months - Rust! Just as well I'm with the AA. More all out effort and the application of a crowbar and a rusty spare wheel was released and changed. On the roll again at 1-30pm and the plan of a nice comfy doss at my parents in tatters, a doss on the pavements of a picnic site on the A361 was in order. A warm night in the open except for Lee, the only man to have frostbite in August!

No further incidents were reported and all were ferried to Lundy (not even an unstable stomach) to be told by the outgoing teams of glorious conditions, 6 from 7 days climbing and weren't we lucky to have the tides. After relaxing in the sun on the grass, the tents arrived and packs sorted for climbing - too late, in comes the rain which contines till late Monday afternoon! Lee and I nip out for a couple of accessible dampish routes. The others go swimming (which became a regular event) - I'm told to recommend one comes prepared for this as it's really good and not cold at all (so why keep your head above water then CB/MB?). Ah hah, a forecast of a dry morning before rain later so an early start for the cliffs. Weather forecasting through the week suffered a tad from inaccuracy as the rain arrived at Immaculate slab (immaculately clean because of the water running down the crux!) I was forced to aid it after the n'th attempt to friction on water kept me dangling on the creaking flake. Lee and I had a wonderful wet walk back, whilst the others kept dry with prussik practice and mantelshelf practice on the light support inside the Old Light. Desperate for entertainment we retired to the pub to try most of the games on the shelves, with CB having a statistically suspicious knowledge of the Questions for SexManiacs! Great company for the evenings - Jim & Al looking a little worse for wear on the Symons aniversary - of couse the next morning was OK for some climbing even though anything that could seep, was. A fact not welcome on the smooth rock of Rampart E2. Lee's verdict on Lundy 5c - hard! Things did improve, and the latter part of the week was a case of rain in the morning, good conditions mid afternoon onwards so last routes began to fall, though no one did.

Try Spacewalk (E2) for adventure - or perhaps not. It's well named looking down from the top pitch on the sea which cut off retreat long ago.The first pitch gets no stars -precarious 5b on damp, green rock. But don't go off route and head for the obvious tat - the sling and bootlace to a peg seems to all that's holding an enormous boulder and all the loose stuff behind it in place! Back on course and the proper stance is shared with a resident Fulmar, thankfully in its own hole. But you have to bridge up over that hole, and a Fulmar has a disturbing range! Second pitch is 5a (like hell!) - don't follow the route description and proceed up the terminally loose, crumbling grove with no good gear, but swing onto the overhanging spikes on the arête which look like they are going to peel off! The 3rd pitch is honest, exposed and an exquisite rock over. Adrenaline overload.

Naturally, on the day of departure, glorious sunshine. Three of us elect to spend the remainder of the weekend toasting on the grills of the Baggy point slabs - scorchio! Excellent routes. Despite the weather, all had a good time and of course there's plenty to go back for. There should be another next year, so get thinking about it now and make sure you don't miss out. Indoor accommodation is possible if there is enough committment (though this can need up to a years notice).

The magnificent eight: Al Metelko, Lee Wood, Dave Dillon, Jim & Judith Symon, Margaret Baldock, Christine Beeston and Dave Bone. Routes 'enjoyed' during the week: Devils Slide (HS), Shark (HVS and very, very hairy), Albion (VS), Satans Slip (VS-E1 depending on opinion), Stuka (HS), Formula one (HVS and honest), Rampart (E2 and evil), Spacewalk (E2 and exciting), Immaculate misconception (Failed - E2 is a misconception - it's now E3 6a), Immaculate slab (HVS), Serpent (E1), Meninirons (bold E1) and others.

Dave Bone