Kinder North

Attendees: 

Andy Lewtas
Paul Lonsdale
Robert Clark
James Martin (prospective)

The day started off with a thick blanket of smoke billowing over Tintwistle and blowing directly towards Manchester. It was immediately obvious a major wildfire was underway. Fortunately for us a stiff easterly wind and the Bleaklow plateau separated us from the chaos tragically engulfing the moors in the distance.

I arrived last at 9am, only to be greeted by Robert Clark fearlessly throwing himself in front of the speeding traffic to secure the last parking space for me. Then a wild James Martin came out of the pines. We quickly teamed up, divvied out ropes and racks of various vintages, and headed for Fair Brook. The approach to the crag is a picturesque hike in its own right and seems to be a very popular spot for wild campers. It blew James away with its splendor and is now his favourite way up Kinder Scout. The team set a swift pace and were at the top of plateau, searching for the first buttress of the day, within 30 minutes.

Climbing began at Chinese Wall, an aesthetically pleasing, nearly symmetrical rock face that’s true to its name. Although slightly green, it was clean where it mattered on the dark, unpolished, pebbly gritstone (with bomber grass tufts). We didn't have to worry about the midges, the wind was so strong it blew my t-shirt over my head and whipped loose grit directly into our eyes. Conditions couldn’t have been better.

For the first routes of the day, Paul Lonsdale pledged his allegiances to Communist Route VD*. I jammed my way up Nationalist Route HS 4b** the proud line in the centre of the face with perfect jams and an offwidth finish. Robert led Canton Arete VS 4c** & I seconded. Both of us chose to use the forbidden crack on the right.

After our time was done in the East, we headed west towards Misty Buttress. James Martin led Pieces of Eight S 4a. A bold line that has no written description in the guidebook. A true onsight! I led Misty Wall 4c***, which was a route of two distinct cruxes for me - the first being a headgame crux and the second being the ‘desperate finale’ crux. Quite thrilling really. Paul jumped on Fixation Diff* whilst Robert & myself made our way further along the edge to the next buttress.

At 18m high, Eureka Buttress aka Ashop Crack Buttress was the tallest and greenest outcrop of the day. Despite its greenness, the unpolished grit continued to deliver outstanding friction. On a day when temperatures soared towards the 30s, you wouldn't have known it stood there in the shade, the rock was as cool as on a mild spring day. We were all appreciative of the extra layer or two we had packed and nobody finished the day in their ‘walk-in’ shorts.

Robert Clark climbed the Top 50, Eureka VS 4c***. A route requiring varying techniques (jump&swim?) with an exciting step out on to the face from under an overhang. Paul led Ashop Climb HVD**. The line is the purest form of slimy chimney climbing filth, with bird faeces smeared on all the holds for extra interest. Because Paul assured me he had cleaned the route, I decided to lead it as well. Both routes were thoroughly enjoyble. We called it a day at 5pm and James found us a pleasant shortcut back to the cars.

Next time conditions are dry, hot & windy, and the grit is too sweaty to climb, you’ll probably find me back at Kinder North. The rock quality, exposure and solitude is hard to find elsewhere in the peak. The climbing is absorbing and has real character. Thank you to the meet attendees for making this a brilliant day, and apologies to those that couldn't make it but wanted to. Hopefully I’ll see you there next time.

Andy Lewtas