Members, Guests, Friends of Guests and miscellaneous Hangers On: Kevin Anderson, Mark Ashley, Christine Beeston, Ken Beetham, Hermione Berthels, John Berthels, Sabina Cosulich, John Cox, Trish Cranston, Dan Creber, Roger Daley, Dave Dillon, Roger Dyke, Martin Heaton, Alan (L) Jones, Lester Payne, Dave Shotton, Kate Smith, Kate Sparks, Jackie Storbeck, Shane Storbeck, Zoe Talks, Dave Wylie.

Apologies if there are any omissions or errors in the above list - having headed up to the Skyline area, the meet leader didn't manage to see everyone who arrived after about 11:30am.

This was a "meet with a mission". The Roaches is one of the crags that has some KMC history associated with it. A total of 15 or 16 routes, depending how pedantic you want to be (see below), were put up by members of the KMC in the early days of the Club. The meet leader's idea was to ensure that all of these routes were climbed by current members of the Club in this, our 60th anniversary year.

The complete list of KMC routes at the Roaches is as follows:

Key to First Ascentionists:

RDS = R. Desmond-Stevens

GS = G. Stoneley

AS = Alan Simpson

ABB = A. Bowden Black

(PH) = Peter Harding (not a KMC member)

KMC = Un-named Karabiner Mountaineering Club members

One of the above routes, Valkyrie, is only "half" KMC, as Peter Harding (the leader on the first ascent) was not actually a KMC member. However, our very own Bowden Black was there in 1946 as Peter was trying to work his way up through uncharted territory. Bowden suggested the line: down the flake, round the buttress and up to the top. The man holding Peter's ropes didn't like the look of this and so Bowden had to take over and second the route. All this provides the justification for the KMC having a claim on the line, bringing our total up from 15 to 16 routes.

Many of those present on the meet climbed several of "our" routes, but one man had decided to make it a personal goal to climb all of the routes himself. Yes, you've guessed it, this was Kevin. He managed to climb all 16 of them, soloing several (even when somebody else was half way up the route!).

As always, the perceived difficulty and quality of a route does not always match up with the grade or number of stars given in a guide book. The above list corresponds with the latest BMC "Staffordshire Grit - Roaches" guide book. However, the opinions of those who climbed the routes on this meet were very different in some cases...

Karabiner Chimney is described as "Pleasant right to the very end". This is, quite literally, true: the route is fine up to the particularly ungainly end move. The climb was led by Dave W. and seconded by Christine. A choice of various "traditional" techniques (jamming, laybacking, etc.) are required on the way up. Escape from the top of the route, at which point the climber is wedged in the final section of chimney, was finally achieved by thrutching. This may well have been easier if traditional garb had been worn: tweeds would probably provide more friction. Kevin managed to solo the route without a shirt on, yet he kept most of the skin on his back. This makes the meet leader suspect that he must have cheated, by using some inappropriate "modern" techniques. Slightly later a non KMC climber was observed to be in-situ on the final move for about half an hour, before being rescued by his friends who used a top-rope to haul him up out of the chimney.

Karabiner Cracks provided an opportunity for Kate Sparks to try her hand at leading for the first time. The guidebook grade may have been appropriate, but a solar powered strimmer might have been useful. Evidently this route does not get much traffic!

Pinnacle Arête was led by Dave D. as well as by Kevin (though did he really climb the arête, or just the adjacent slab?). Several others followed up the route, including Trish who was sampling her first VS climbing, her second taste being "Aqua", a non-KMC route.

Tower Chimney proved to be "interesting", climbed in trainers by Dave W. and Mark (who were both averse to putting on their rock boots for a mere Diff). Traditional Big Boots would probably have been even better, particularly as it would have enabled the leader to have aimed a larger kick at Kevin, who overtook him half way up.

Maud's Garden is always worthwhile and saw many ascents on the day, both by KMC members and other climbers. Beckermet Slab, however, had fewer people on it, mainly as they seemed to be baffled by the first few moves. Central Masif received an ascent from Roger Dyke and Dave S.

Valkyrie, the "half KMC" route, was the last one to be climbed by the Club on this meet. Kevin and Sabina were last seen at the start of the second pitch, as most of the others headed off to the pub. The meet leader later received confirmation that they finished off the route, to completed the full list of "our" climbs on the crag.

Many other (non KMC) routes were also climbed during the day, including: Right Route, Heather Wall, Pinnacle Crack, Tealeaf Crack, Aqua, etc., but these are all obviously inferior to any of those put up by our own Club!

This was an excellent day, climbing amazing routes at a superb crag, with sunny weather (though some people STILL managed to complain, as it was "too hot") and good company. Many thanks to everybody who came out, I hope you all enjoyed yourselves!

Come out to play on one of the classic gritstone crags. A fair few of the routes here were put up by KMC members, so it would be a fitting celebration of the Clubs's 60th year if we managed climb all of "our" routes on this meet!

I should be at the crag, clutching the new Staffordshire guidebook, from about 11am. Try and car-share if possible as there is limited parking.