Sat 27th Aug - Mon 29th Aug, 2005

Cairngorms Rock

August (not the Cairngorms) Bank Holiday

Members Present: Jim and Sandy Gregson, Chris Beeston, Roger Daley, Rob Clark, Julie ORegan, Kevin Anderson, Dave Dillon, Trish Cranston, Scott Sadler, James Richardson, Dave Bish, Peter Walker. Guests: Linda and John Dolan, Karen Kennedy, Geoff Hibbert, Steve Bowker, Simon Shackley, Anja Wimmerling, Katy Morgan, Peter Bamber.

Final Score:Ty Powdwr: 22, Cairngorms: 0.

A good gathering at the hut by Friday evening in spite of a not very good weather forecast. Jim and Sandy had already had a days walk on the Lleyn Peninsula by the time I arrived and Linda and John had set up camp with Nelson - what a name for a one eyed dog!

A gloomy Saturday morning saw Chris, Karen, the Dolans and Nelson get a lift down to the Pen y Gwyrd to traverse back over the Glyders and Elidir Fawr to the hut.

Two ropes headed for the Pass, Dave D and Trish to do Scramblers Gate (S) on the Grochan, whilst Daley and Walker did Flying Buttress and Spiral Stairs on an almost deserted Cromlech, unbelievable on a Bank Holiday - and there was plenty of parking.

Over on Anglesey Scott and Geoff ticked off Fanfare (HVS), Daddy on Sight (E3) and Fear Test (E3) on Rhoscolyn.

The main focus of attention on both Saturday and Sunday was Tremadoc where Kevin and Steve did Grim Wall direct, Rob did Striptease (VS), One step in the clouds (VS); Julie and Peter also did One Step, plus Grim Wall (VS) and Shadrach (VS).

Davey, Trish and Karen also did Grim Wall. Meanwhile Scott and Geoff were knocking off Scratch Arête (HVS), Pincushion (E2) and Barbarian (E1)

Sundays walk by Chris,Rob, John and Linda was the classic Nantle Ridge whilst Jim and Sandy were on Yr Arddu and Cnicht.

My apologies to: Anja James, Dave and Katy for not having a note of their climbing, and anyone else I have missed out.

Last but not least, Simon Shackley cycled from St Asaph and back! The promised rain finally arrived on Monday morning so everyone had gone when the sun broke through in the afternoon. Life was ever thus!

Peter Walker

Meet Promo:

This is for the Mountaineering types out there and attendance is mandatory. Target is the head of Loch Avon in the Cairngorms with loads of Scottish Granite to go at - Greenland being fine practice for it.

Taking Friday afternoon off would be useful as the plan, provided the weather is not perverse, is to head for the Coire Cas car park from Aviemore (Public Transport is possible!) and walk in Friday night, or meet at on the crags on Saturday. Sneak into the car park and after planting your pack of explosives (timed to go off at midnight, Monday) under a pylon of that abomination, the funicular, march with eyes firmly ahead south and up the Fiacaill ridge path to the top where desecration is left behind. Despite 70m more ascent, take the route over 1176m and down Coire Domhain 'cos it's easier with packs, to the head of Loch Avon. Camp on the South side up from the loch near the Shelter stone where there are grassy knolls and boulder howffs (GR003016) - about 3.25miles.

Once there, you have a choice of crags with 3 star routes from Mod to E2 (and much harder, but of little interest to 98% of the club). Centre piece is Shelter Stone crag, which is really clean and quick drying for a North facing crag, with the Needle (265m E1 ***), Haystack, Steeple & the Pin (E2 ***), classic VS Citadel etc. A greater mix of grades is available on Hells Lum Crag (The Clean Sweep [160m VS ***], Auld Nick [160m S ***]) and the Stag Rocks all in 0.5mi. Routes also available on Carn Etchachan, and for top of the world climbing the S facing Coire Sputan Dearg is 2mi away. Likely is to carry gear out on the Monday to do a route or so in the Northern Corries on the way out - eg. Savage Slit (S ***) in Coire an Lochain.

In more threatening circumstances we have drier venues at Creag Dubh, Newtonmore & Huntleys Cave as well as heading south.

Dave Bone

Privacy Notice

Copyright © 2013 Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Karabiner Mountaineering Club