Sat 12th Jul - Sun 13th Jul, 2008

North Devon Climbing

Members present: Peter Johnson, Mark Ashley, Michelle Harvie, Mark Garrod.

Guests: Marilyn Johnson.


The plan for the weather at least worked well, with the final rain of an awful week finishing just as M&M arrived on the Friday evening, to give us sunshine all the way. Good to see Pete taking advantage of a "nearly local" meet, and Mark A joining us en route to a family gathering in Dorset.

M&M&M camped at Mitchum's - we were the ones without bleached hair, fancy long-shorts, and surf board. Pete and Marilyn were in local inn enjoying the relative comfort of beds and en-suite.

Saturday started in the normal way, with Michelle in for her first dip of the day, and then the team of 4 headed off to Baggy Point and Scrattling zawn (Marilyn was getting her sponsored mileage in on foot). The meet leader then excelled himself by dropping a rope into the briny whilst abseiling. Michelle was tempted into a second dip to retrieve it, but was wisely warned off by Mark A and Pete, who thought the heavy swell and washing-machine appearance of the gully it has dropped into was not a good place to be. Nevertheless, Scrattling crack (***) was conquered by all, on one rope or two. We then headed off to Long Rock slab, and spent the rest of day enjoying the various routes there, such as Ben and Marion (both HS). Most care of the day was taken on the descent to the base of the face, via a mod scramble down followed by a drop through the eye of the ridge (you'll have to go to get the full picture). More swimming completed the day, apart from the odd beer amongst the young ones (no, not us).

Sunday was pretty much the same, less the scrattling bit. For those who know Long Rock slab, you will realise that ticking off loads of routes was not top of our agenda, but we did make up some interesting route variations that kept us amused. Thanks to Pete, Marilyn and Mark for making it work.


{Picture: Mark on Scrattling Crack and a fine array of gear to match Roger's. Perhaps best in B&W with those shoes!}

Mark Garrod

Meet Promo:

It's a long way to go, but we have aimed for the weekend before the main holidays to minimise traffic and maximise the sun and warmth. The climbing at Baggy Point is the main focus of the weekend, along with the requisite sea dips (with you know who), and campsite socialising as ever. I have not yet managed to check the tides, so I'm not sure whether the low tide routes will be accessible am or pm, but there is plenty of light to catch them at some point. Anyone who fancies surfing is also is the right place. For those who want to extend the stay, Lundy is just over the water.

The plan is to base ourselves in Croyde to have easy access to both sea and Baggy point. The campsites here are somewhat pricey; £13 per night per night per person plus £3 for a car, and you need to book for both weekend nights, to stay at Mitchum's village campsite, where we intend being. Rules abound in all campsites around here; this one only allows 2-3 man smallish tents, not frame tents or equivalent, and doesn't allow camper-vans or pets. Please contact me with definite bookings 3 weeks before the weekend, and I will book the site, otherwise please book direct or take your chance. Campsite grid ref is 441397, directions are get to Croyde whichever way you want, then take Jones Hill off the B3231 going north toward Putsborough for 200m, then turn left on Moor lane which heads out toward Baggy point. The campsite is a short way (100-200m) along Moor lane. E-mail is, telephone is 07875-406473.

Saturday will definitely be climbing on Baggy point as the main focus. Sunday can be more flexible, with some (limited) potential for other climbing in the area, although Baggy point should keep most people happy for 2 days.

Please contact me if you are thinking of, or definitely, coming.

Mark Garrod

Scrattling Crack (Mark Garrod)

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