Present: Meet leader, climbing partner Tony Major and surprise visitor Mark Ashley.

With the NW-SE split in the weather continuing, and frequently appearing holes in the veil of cloud N of Newcastle, the venue looked like a good bet for the weekend if you wanted to climb in the sun still. However not a peep of interest was heard so the 2 of us set off pre-dawn on the Saturday as if for a normal climbing weekend. The choice was vindicated as the cloud peeled back at Leeds, and the entire drive up the E side was under clear sunny skies (as it was to remain all day & night). Arrived at the verge parking for Bowden Doors at 10am - one other car there but no KMC. A bit of a cool breeze blew along the edge, but we started climbing and soon many more climbers were arriving and a warm sun swung round onto the edge. During this Mark turned up - sans climbing gear - but after attempting some soloing and seeing the routes we were attempting, retired to the coast for some walking and kite flying instead. Several routes on the immaculate, wonderfully featured rock were attempted, some successfully (the grades did seem a little variable), we got as far north as Hudson Bay on Canada Crack.

A fine evening at Wooler and after a good night's (essential) rest, Sunday morning presented itself with a thin veil of cloud spreading in with a breeze. So the comparative shelter of Kyloe was chosen - here it was very comfortable and the fact that there was no sunshine was hardly noticed, again plenty of climbers on the superb rock but no KMC. We had started on Overhanging Buttress (perhaps not the best choice of start), and Mark arrived during our 2nd route, Coldstream Crack. A team effort eventually saw a member arrive on top from below. Mark then joined in for most of the many more routes climbed that day that included "Tacitation", "Slab & Groove", before tired arms and the need to get us on the long road back (<4hrs), called a halt at 16:45.

A little bit of difficulty in choosing here, do I go for the adventurous, never tried before moorland crags, or play safe with the well known west facing crags. So for best chance of success, I'm playing 'safe' and starting off at least with a well known crag. In all of this vast county I aim to be at the west facing Sandstone crag of Bowden Doors [NU 070 325] from 10:30am on the Saturday. This is just 200m North of the B6349 Belford-Wooler road, ~2.5mi from Belford. With over 130 routes in my guide, with stars from D to E what's that then, there ought to be something to amuse everyone for a day. How about Tiger's Wall VS 5a***, Lorraine VS 5a***, Castle Crack VD***, Canada Crack HVS 5a***. Be strong. The rock is heavily featured and the view of the Cheviots fine. Consider bringing something to protect the rock from the rope (worn grooves), and note sandstone is best avoided for a day after heavy rain.

Saturday evening (or more) reconvene to the campsite on the western side of Wooler at 983282 - Highburn House Country holiday park. "Follow the A697 to Wooler, turn left onto High Street shopping centre, left onto Burnhouse Road, we are 400 yards along on the left". 01668 281344, www.highburn-house.co.uk. It has the advantage of being a short walk from the town centre with a not-inconsiderable array of Pubs. It will be seen from the map one can walk into the Cheviots from here?

Sunday is a little more open - for more of the same there are the Kyloe crags - in the woods or just outside, or maybe even those moorland crags in the direction of home. It will depend on the conditions and those present, so contact us if you really can only make a single day.

Please contact the leader if you are going, a solo leader might not make it that far else!

Maps: Landranger 75 (and 81 for the moors). Web info thenmc.org.uk.