Fri 12th Aug - Sun 14th Aug, 2011

Lancashire Coast: Camp, Climb & BBQ


Members: Koy Oi Ding, Dave Wylie, Gareth Williams, Carolyn Mills, Andy Stratford, Duncan Lee, Vicky Alderton, John Cox, James Williams, Al Metelko, Mark Ashley, James Hoyle, Kasia Hoyle.

Guests: Mark Houlding, Kate Harvey, Paul Marsden, Lucie Crouch, Jamie Ledingham, Sarah White, Nick Adamson, Kieron!

 

A distinctly unpromising weather report earlier in the week didn't deter the weekend turnout with 5 camping on Friday, 10 on Saturday and 20 at the main climbing day at Trowbarrow on Sunday.

On arrival Friday Dave, Ding & Andy were sent to 'The Stone Circle' in the woods. Gazebo was duly erected over the central stone and we pitched up amongst the others. Despite the showers Jack Scout Crag looked nearly dry enough for a route so Dave managed Victim of Life (HS 4b) before rain stopped play. Ding had a rehearsal BBQ but was so hungry that the chicken got flambee in the firelighter!

A chilly and overcast Saturday morning greeted Andy, Dave, Ding, Gareth & Lucie and a plan was hatched for the little visited Warton Upper followed by Warton Pinnacle. Having just returned from the Alps and with a few hundred extra blood cells running round Gareth suggested walking to the crag from the campsite. It looked like it might take about an hour. Two hours 45 minutes later - and much consulting of maps, compasses, GPS units, other walkers and a little luck we finally arrived at Warton Upper, followed closely by Al. The thought of bashing jungle to reach the Pinnacle was swiftly abandoned - and anyhow Warton Upper was great unpolished fun with a fine selection of routes led by Andy, Gareth & Dave including Yellow Edge (VS 4c), Yellow Wall (Vdiff), The Plumb (S 4c), Judith (VS 4b), Brainwasher (VS 4c), Brainchild (S 4a). A top rope attempt was made on the fearsome looking arete of Space Walk (HVS 5b) (See pics) which we all agreed was very undergraded! Andy & Ding cadged lifts with Al, Lucie and Gareth walked and Dave got points for running all the way back!

 

The Note from the Pagans
The Note
from the Pagans

Arriving back at the site that evening the campsite had clearly been disturbed - had we been robbed? then we found the note...(see pic)....it appeared we had upset the local pagans who had intended to worship at their sacred stone, and instead found themselves worshipping under Andy’s Gazebo at the KMC's kitchen table...

Carolyn & Jamie arrived and pitched up in time to BBQ. Nick and Sarah had arrived in the afternoon but were put off from pitching at the stone circle site by the mob of angry pagans.

After a sumptuous BBQ feast, an evenings cragging in the dusk ensued with Nick keeping up his burgeoning reputation for nocturnal cragging activity by LED light with Gareth in the lead.

Sunday dawned fair - and only three of the four cars required a tow off by the tractor...

Trowbarrow looked fantastic in the morning - and generally very dry. After the 10 happy campers arrived, a steady stream of KMC members out for day release joined in a great days cragging.

I managed to record most of the routes - apologies if any of this is wrong but a lot got done....

  • Cracked Actor (E2 5b): Carolyn fb Jamie and Gareth. James W followed a mystery (non KMC) climber up Cracked Actor.
  • Aladdinsane (E1 5a): Andy fb Kasia and James Hoyle.
  • Assagai (HVS 5a): Duncan fb Mark Houlding.
  • Warspite (HVS 5a): Carolyn fb Jamie.
  • Jean Jeanie (VS 4c): Andy fb Kasia and James Hoyle.
  • Coral Sea (VS 4c): Jamie fb Carolyn.
  • Harijan (VS 4c): Carolyn fb Jamie, Ding.
  • Pigfall (S 4a): Mark Ashley fb Kasia.
  • Ramp ant (S 4a): Ding fb Mark Ashley. Nick fb Sarah. Gareth fb Lucie. Vicky fb ?
  • Original Route (V Diff). Gareth fb Lucie. Nick fb Sarah.
  • Jomo (VDiff). Dave fb Andy, Ding. Mark Ashley fb Kasia. Nick fb Sarah.

Thanks to everyone for turning out.



Andy S



Meet Promo:

Hopefully this meet will attract some KMC alpinists in their prime of fitness post the Gran Paradiso trip. Featuring Lancashires only (small) sea cliff facing the setting sun over Morecambe bay on a sunny summers evening...

Not sure of tidal info yet so it may involve damp belaying! Getting there – approx. 1 and a 1/4 hrs drive from central Mcr to the campsite.

 

Accom

Camping at Gibralter Farm. I have provisionally booked KMC in as a group. Any emails or calls in advance expressing interest welcome so I can firm up space requirements with the Campsite owners.

 

Fri 12th

Advance party hoping to be there by 1pm for lunch. Late pm & eve arrival and Jack Scout Crag (Lancashire Rock). BBQ.

 

Sat 13th

Warton Quaries, Warton Pinnacle Crag, Fairy Steps Crag or various others in the area to be decided.(all in Lancashire Rock).

 

Sun 14th

If you can't do the whole weekend this is a great day out.

Trowbarrow - Limestone (Lancashire Rock). Jean Jeanie, Assagai Wall, Coral Sea & Harijan among the many classics at this picturesque and sunny quarry setting. [those cracks on the right hand side are getting wider. Ed.]

Depending on weather forecasts these days may get swapped round so keep an eye on the scribble page or text that week for info.



Andy S



The Note from the Pagans (Andy Stratford)
The Kitchen Table - with 'The Note' (Andy Stratford)
Happy Campers (Andy Stratford)
Meat (Andy Stratford)
BBQ No1 for Ding (Andy Stratford)
Gareth 'space walking' Warton Upper (Dave Wylie)
Concentrate! (Dave Wylie)
Belaying at Jack Scout Crag at Dusk (Andy Stratford)
Dave about to start 2nd pitch of Jomo (VDiff), Trowbarrow (Andy Stratford)
In goes the Big Cam (Dave Wylie)
Andy high on the wall and in the big crack -  Aladdin Sane E1 5a, Trowbarrow (Dave Wylie)
Gareth (Top left) finishing Cracked Actor (E2 5b), Andy (centre) half way up Jean Jeanie (Vs 4c) (Kasia Hoyle)
James Hoyle finishing Jean Jeanie (VS 4c), Trowbarrow (Kasia Hoyle)
So, which way to the crag then? (Gareth Williams)
Lost in the Jungle at Warton (Gareth Williams)
Nope, still can't see the crag (Gareth Williams)








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