Sat 15th Jul - Sun 16th Jul, 2000
Dovestone Tor (incl Bivvy)
Present: Tony Major, John Evans, Dave Bone.
Not too much enthusiasm for this one - perhaps it was the cool and cloudy weather, though it did stay dry. At least the meet leader turned up for his meet! Hoping to enjoy some evening sunshine, Tony and I ferried in our bivvy gear to the crag (an easy 50min walk) to find the only other KMCer, John, there bouldering (plenty of it). There are quite a few more routes than the guidebook shows - routes done included Typhoon (HVS), Back Blast (HVS not),and the classic Great Buttress (E1) - overhanging all the way and with an absolutely typical gritstone finish! Just Tony and I were left to perform the ritual bivvy, without the sunshine. But not totally alone for at 10pm a group of 8 from Sheffield arrived with the same idea (so it couldn't be that crazy then?). Sunday dawned cloudy and utterly cold - where was the predicted sunshine? Best option for getting warm was walking out immediately and the sun duly appeared at the car. Regathered at the alternate venue of Stanage, but quickly missed out the North end not having much left nice to do there, and eventually ended up at the Plantation. Had a short day after giving blood generously to the wee beasties! I'm told that people did arrive at Stanage North end later (well we were up at 7) - "Dave, your plan worked. Chris W, Robert Clarke, Sabina, Ken Beetham, Steve Bowker, Thelma and I all went to Stanage End after checking our answer phones. To fill in blanks for your meet report the following routes were ascended by various people. Old Salt, February Crack, The Wobbler, Green Streak, Incursion and various others. Duncan".
No, not that Dovestones - this is the "remote" crag on Derwent Edge overlooking Ladybower reservoir! Grid Ref SK197898 just to make sure. Excellent, clean, west facing Gritstone up to 25m high with a great view and a walk in to see off the riff-raff. It's in the Stanage Guide, but I have a Climber article with many more routes in it!
Such a shame to waste the walk in, so as an extra touch, a bivvy at the site is added - weather permitting! Now you can climb till the sun sets - magic. Rough plan is to arrive midday on Saturday and depart for whatever Crag you wish on Sunday. Walkers too are welcome - if you follow the Derwent edge clockwise, you can chuckle at the climbers in their plastic bags on the way back to the car, or hey, join in and make a 2 day trek!