'With the formation of the Karabiner M.C. the crag began to receive attention and many new climbs were discovered.' - Current Kinder Guide.

This year another, little visited, classic crag with a fair selection of starred routes. Everything from VD* to E4 6a***. From a personal perspective, the best routes lie in the Severe to HVS bracket. There a plenty of starred E numbers, too, Duncan!

Try:

• Atherton Brothers Severe **
• Via Principa Severe **
• Monkey Puzzle VS 4b *
• Pisa Direct VS 4c **
• Phoenix Climb VS 4c ***
• Pisa Super Direct HVS 5a ***
• East Rib HVS 5a ***

Last minute F&M outbreaks permitting, all the currently available information states we'll be able to get to the crag once more! However, if this doesn't prove to be the case, please respect any red closure signs; as a fall-back on the day, I suggest we regroup at Hobson Moor!

Suggest approach from Glossop by B6105 towards the A628 Woodhead Road. Having passed the sailing club on Torside Reservoir, the road eventually makes a sharp left bend to cross between Torside and Woodhead Reservoirs prior to joining the A628. There is limited car parking available at this point. Where possible, please share lifts to avoid problems. There is also parking at the large (signed?) area on the opposite side of the road to the sailing club - you'll then have to flog approx 2km up the road on foot.

While it is possible to reach the car parking by approaching directly from the A628, this involves executing an awkward right hand turn, down a hairpin junction, with lots of heavy lorries flying round your ears. Occasional bunches of cut flowers and other memorials testify to the wisdom of this strategy. From the car parking on the sharp bend, the guidebook approach description is a little out of date - the railway has been replaced by the Trans-Pennine Trial. Cross the trail to gain the track running parallel. From the railway cottages the guidebook describes two options:

'...a track leads up the hillside to Deer Knowl Rocks. It is possible to follow the moor edge from this crag to reach Shining Clough Rocks.'

or, remaining with the parallel track?

'Alternatively, the tarmac lane continues eastwards for ¼ mile until signs for open country are reached' (these may now have disappeared) 'Follow a path up the hillside, well above the gamekeepers lodge, past a small pond to the pleasant woods around Shining Clough brook. Strike up the steep left hand side of the clough, then bear left across the hillside to reach the western end of the crag. Time: 40 minutes from the dam.

The guidebook gives Grid Ref SK 098986 for the crag.

I'll be heading up the hill between 10:30 and 11:00.