Members: Lorna Marsland, Graham Harkenss, Sue Harkness.

Guests: Dave Hall, Ron Marshal.

There is an anonymity about the inside of a tent, lying warm and comfortable in your sleeping bag. The drumming of the rain on the canvas, the flapping noise. These are universals, but stuff that, there is no doubt where you are. Outside you know that somewhere in the clag there is a spectacular view of a beautiful Scottish Loch and a ring of most impressive rain sodden, mist shrouded Munroe's just waiting to be bagged.

The Munroe's were a challenge,.... but enough of plagiarism

To return to the Friday night of the 30th April, The planned party of 4 gathered in the Bridge of Orchy Bunk House around 22;00 hrs. Two cars and Dave on his motor bike

Saturday May 1st - DAY 1

Saturday morning was sunny and fresh. We had a leisurely breakfast and set off for Loch Archaig. Dave advised that we were to be joined by another long time friend Ronnie, an aged caravan dweller of no fixed abode, who decided to turn up. There was a small delay while Dave dropped off the motor bike at the caravan site, for security, and travelled in with wandering Ron. As events unfolded this proved to be a most fortunate decision.

The first lesson of Knoydart is that everything takes longer than you think, and that's not just because this was a meeting of the retired and infirm. The road up to and along Loch Archaig is part of the Great Glen cycle trail and it so happened that morning about two thousand ( I exaggerate there were only 800) overweight and unfit cyclists with numbers on their backs were all over the road (Maggie's Great Glen bike and walk event). We got past that obstacle and continued up the lovely Loch Archaig past waterfalls, the Witches Cauldron and trees and deer.

On the lower part of the Loch Archaig road there were cars and what looked like semi permanent caravans but these were left behind as the country became wilder and the road overgrown with grass, until at the far, remote end of Loch Archaig was Lorna. parked on the verge about a mile back from the gated track, on the end of a wild distant remote car park that looked like the M25 in rush hour, however Knoydart is a big place.

We geared up and eventually set off at 12:30. My original 5 hr estimate for the walk in was wrong. The trail was a lot more rugged than I anticipated. The trail was clear but very boggy and rough. The weather was great, sunny and warm and the country delightful. Dave a great mine of knowledge about anything not practical insisted that a break every hour was recommended for optimum progress when trekking with large sacks in rough country. No arguments from anyone. We arrived at the Bothy by 18:30, 6 hrs to walk from Strathan to Sourlies at an easy pace.

The Bothy is set on the north side of a wide inlet. There are several ruins near by and very close to the Bothy a good area of turf for camping. We took water from a small stream.

There were several people in the Bothy and two tents already in place.

We had set about pitching tents when someone noticed some dots on the horizon approaching from the sea, not Vikings but seven sea Kayaks.

As it turned out the occupants were a set of instructors from various outdoor schools who had canoed round the 20k or so from Malaig via Inverie where they had stopped for a pint before moving up to Sourlies.

Once they landed the occupants set about like a gang of dockers pulling out tents, gear, food, beer and a bottle of Laphroig whiskey. Its amazing how much you can get in a sea Kyak. The deserted wilderness turf now housed the occupants of 8 tents plus about 6 people in the bothy.

This was when the Linda Crossley influence first became apparent. Everything Lorna pulled out of her sack was calculated and approved of by the Linda Crossley "check your back pack" computer program. My alternative theory is if you like it stuff it in(does he have no self restraint . Hm not a lot)

So Lorna scoffed her Crossley calculated Bean feast and we had Harkness Spagetti bolognaise Susan had cooked the day before, red wine (I had decanted it into two plastic bottles) and Genoa cake. We were too full for the custard.

Sunday May 2nd - DAY 2

A good morning for Knoydart. After breakfast Susan decided to stay to appreciate the beauty and wandering Ron.. wandered.

Lorna, Dave and Graham took a ridge more or less straight out of the back of the camp site and headed north east for Sgurr na Ciche (1040m). To reach the munroe we passed over a very distinctive point and then more or less straight to the top, arriving around lunch time. By then the cloud had gathered and covered the tops. We stopped for lunch when ring, ring (or some other noise) a telephone?? Lorna's phone had switched on accidentally and received a call announcing she had won something, or something. At 900meters you can get a signal even out there. I tried a text to Midge but got no reply.

Really wet and cold by now as we headed south east down and then up again to Garbh Chioch Mhor (1013m). The weather was getting steadily worse so we retraced our steps down and then westish following the stream steeply down to Allt Coire na ciche. My purchase of the entire works of Gilbert and Sulivan for £20 provided some conversation and we descended to a chorus of "When a felons not engaged in his employment or a hatch'in a felonious little plan his capacity for innocent enjoyment ...etc"

Always the going was rough and slower than we had anticipated until we eventually picked up a well made track which dropped down to join the main track from Glen Dessarry back to the Bothy.

On the way back we picked up some dead braches for firewood. I was mocked but did manage to get a very comforting fire going in the bothy with no smoke after the initial warm up. We all dried off and had a very convivial evening with the various people and Kayak travellers.

Monday May 3rd - DAY 3

Lorna, Dave, Graham and Susan headed for MEALL BUIDHE (946m). The way was to head north west from the bothy around the top of the inlet and then upstream alongside the river Carnach to find a crossing. The river is wide and near to the loch it flows through a wide open area about 1 km across. This is a bog but you can see a bridge near to the ruins of Carnoch barracks. A wild place for a lonely soldier I imagine. From the river there is a good path up to the pass of Mam Meadail. The path continues another 8 or so kilometres to Inverie but we "hung a right" up a very steep hillside towards the summit. There was the start of a path but it disappeared and the hill was verging on a scramble for the 300meters to the col between Scurr-Sgeithe and Meall Buidhe.

We did Scurr-Sgeithe and headed back along the ridge towards the main summit but by now it had clouded over completely and was very cold. By the time we reached the summit we were in a squall, complete with snow whirling around us. We did not fancy retracing our steps down so a bearing was taken from the top of Meall Buidhe back to Mam Meadail. The bearing eased the angle and avoided the crags.

It seemed extremely steep at first but the option was a long walk down the ridge to Inverie, but in practice the angle quickly lessened so I could stop fretting.

After a short descent it became a pleasant walk again below the cloud. The third munroe of the trip.

The walk back around the coast with the tide coming in was very pleasant, the tail enders even had a paddle but it was very wet by the time we got back and the wind was up.

We battened down the tents and retired to the Bothy to cook. Because we had enjoyed a nice fire the night before those that had been there said do it again Graham, - not a good idea. I don't know why, I think it was the wind direction now down the Glen, however this time the fire did light ok at first but then totally filled the bothy with choking smoke. Try as I might it could not get the smoke to clear, (the bothy did though). As quickly as I could I did get rid of the fire but it took a while and I consider myself lucky that the new arrivals did not heave me out into the Loch.

Tuesday May 4th - DAY 4

This time the weather was awful. Low cloud and steady rain. Lorna had planned to leave that day so the rest of us decided to keep her company.

We got a good way up the path, on the way up to the Lochan Mhaim when things went a little wrong. Dave the sure footed whom I have walked with for around 40 years and who has trod a respectable selection of the most remote mountains of Europe, India, North and South America, often on his own, put a foot wrong.

It was very wet and the ground was certainly rough but as far as we can tell all that happened was his heel slipped a little way and then came to an abrupt stop, he did not even go down, but the consequence was he could not straighten his leg at the knee and could barely walk. In the big party there was no real problem we divided his gear between us and Dave hobbled slowly on his sticks (he always did likened them to a Zimmer frame). The going was slow for an hour or two and the loads were heavy. The sack carriers got a bit ahead of the injured Dave.

About 4 k from the cars the path joined the track down the Glen and fortunately there was a truck and a man on a JCB. The JCB driver was helpful and gave me the combination for the gate lock at the road end so I dropped my bag and took a little jog to get the car. I had returned about one k back up the track in the car when round a blind bend came a Land Rover, woops it was "The 'keeper".

As it happened he was an extremely pleasant and helpful young chap. I explained what I was doing. "Will ye get up in that" said he eyeing my Scenic, "should do" said I, "aye but yeel no get back, ye might damage it" and off he went to rescue the team .

Lorna went on because she was driving back to Manchester.

Susan got to sit in the front seat of the Land Rover next to this guy who looked ordinary to me, a bit like them that you see on the adverts for Scottish holidays, dark, bit of stubble on the chin, tall, slim square jaw etc but Susan was made up and came back grinning and going on about how lovely it was sitting in the Land rover with his dog was cuddling up to her? very odd behaviour for an elderly lady.

Lorna departed and the rest of us who were staying in a hotel near to Ron's caravan site went to anaesthetise the lads leg with a few pints and a bit of dinner. All told the incident only cost us a few hours.

Epilogue

Dave went to the hospital the next day and they patched him up but he could not ride his motor bike home. Dave stayed with Ron for a few days and Sue and I took him back home when we went. He got the bike back a couple of weeks later, on a trailer.

We still do not really know what the injury was but even 3 month later it is still not right, some tendon attached to the knee cap is suspect.

All told a very pleasant weekend, 4 good days walking and 3 excellent munroes.

On a more serious note can I record a formal thank you to the young gentleman in the Landover for helping us so good naturedly. He probably did save me scraping the underside of my car.

PRACTICAL NOTES

The Bridge of Orchy bunk house is convenient for an overnight stay when heading north on a Friday night, far enough to give a good start the next day. Cost is £10 per night but Breakfast and Linen are extra. We paid £14 b&b. Not as good value as it was the year before but OK.

The Linda Crossley Guidelines on what to carry. I whole heartedly agree with the very good recommendations if you are trekking but still like a few comforts if you are just making a shortish single carry to a base camp.

However, last year on the way in I strained a knee muscle called a Bursar which was not a stopper but a nuisance for a few weeks. This year Dave picked up a more serious knee injury. It may be bad luck but 2 out of 2 suggests that the mature backpacker needs to tread a little more gently than before and watch the load, can I get a copy of the backpackers spreadsheet?

The bothy at Sourlies is a good place to camp. The bothy itself is also good but is now popular. We took water purifying drops and I would do again, but the water seemed ok.

Wild camping is an acquired taste but rewarding I would encourage more of this type of meet if only to keep me company and hone your skills for greater things.

MAPS : Landranger Sheet 33 Loch Alsh, Glen Shiel and Loch Hourn. Camp near to Sourlies Bothy (869950) in an idyllic position at the head of Loch Nevis. A fine wilderness area with remote Munros a'plenty

http://www.mountainbothies.org.uk

See the section on West Highlands and Islands

Sue and I plan to walk in and set up camp on the Saturday. Have 3 days in the mountains and out on the Wednesday morning. This may vary depending on weather mountains and midges (But hopefully none in May).

There is a reasonably size flat area near the bothy that is used for tents. This is wild camping. My current information is that there are no facilities at or near the bothy. Water purifying tablets are advisable.

Approach Sourlies from Strathan 980915 at the head of Loch Arkaig through Glen Dessarry. My best estimate is about 5 hours walking carrying gear. To get to Strathan go to Spean Bridge and turn right B8004 to Gairlochy, right again on the B8005 to Clunes and left along Loch Arkaig to Strathan. Park where you can at the road end.

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