Members: Christine Beeston, Robert Clark, Laura Collier, Roger Dyke, Paul Evans, Cathy Gordon, Dave Shotton, Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Dave Wylie

Guests: John Doldon, Tom Doldon, Matt Harrigan, Jay, James Meakin, Ben Slater

This was seemingly the first KMC meet at this classic gritstone crag for some years.  A gratifying turnout of members and guests enjoyed a fine and sunny day, one of many in an unusually warm and pleasant September.   

Various people turned up from around 10.30am (a number beating the meet leader to the crag).  Initial activity focussed on the Apple Buttress area.  The classic Apple Arete (VS 4b), with a few thought-provoking moves, received leads variously from Christine, Andy and Jim Symon, and was seconded by Roger, Paul, James Meakin, Dave S and Dave Wylie. The adjacent Apple Crack (VD) was led by James and seconded by Roger and Cathy, amongst others.  Apple Jack Crack (VD), a short but sweet wall crack not to be confused with the aforementioned Apple Crack, was led by Laura and Dave S, and seconded by Christine, Jay, Cathy, Roger and James.  NMC Crack (HVD), with a rather awkward move onto a ledge at about half-height, also proved a popular choice in this part of the crag, being led by Dave S and Dave Wylie and seconded by Christine, Cathy, Roger and others.  Also in this general area, Paul led Velvet Cracks (VS 4b), seconded by Dave Wylie, and Robert led Layback Crack (VS 4c) which was followed by James.  Father and son newcomers John and Tom also did several routes in the Apple Buttress area but unfortunately departed before I could make a note of which ones.

There was a gradual migration northwards along the edge as the day wore on.  Moving on a little, Andy Stratford led Bilberry Buttress (VS 5a), seconded by Dave Wylie; and Laura led the nearby Stepped Crack (HD) followed by Cathy and Jay.

Moving further up to Ellliott’s Buttress, Paul led Elliott’s Buttress Direct (HS 4a) and Jim led Elliott’s Buttress Indirect (VS 4b).

Things got tricky in the Moyer’s Buttress area however – Biven’s Crack (HVS 5b) repelled separate spirited attempts by Robert Clark (who had to abseil down to retrieve gear and got his prusik loops in a tangle), and also Ben Slater (with Matt holding the ropes) who in his own words experienced “a good spanking” from the route!

Special mentions go to: Cathy who turned up despite a broken toe so didn’t do any leading, but nevertheless seconded various routes as mentioned; Jay (Laura’s friend) who seconded Laura and others on various routes on her first time ever climbing outdoors on real rock after some indoor wall climbing; and Roger’s slightly disturbing assertion “I was a child bride” (!) in the course of an autobiographical anecdote!

There doesn’t seem to have been a club meet at this classic gritstone venue above Baslow (and not far from the ever-popular Birchen’s Edge) for a number of years, despite its range of over 200 routes (not to mention a number of boulder problems!) at all grades including such gems as Stepped Crack (D), NMC Crack (HVD), Elliott’s Buttress Direct (HS 4a), Gardom’s Unconquerable (VS 4c) and Moyer’s Buttress (E1 5b).

Meet at the crag somewhere around the Moyer’s Buttress area from 10:30am.

For further crag details including current parking information please see http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=95

Apart from some small local laybys, parking options also include the public car park (NOT the pub car park!) at SK 281721 near the Robin Hood pub on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619). This gives a walk-in of about 15 minutes or so to the crag but best to get to the car park early! This is of course also convenient for Birchen’s Edge so it would be possible to do a route or two there as well.