Club Meet

Froggatt Edge Climbing

Sun 20th Aug, 2017

Roger Dyke

Meet Promo

You'll just be back from the Alps?  This is the Meet you need to shrug off the Mountaineering mode and be a rock-climber again....

Plenty of parking in the National Trust’s Haywood Pay+Display car park just off the A625, 400m S of the Grouse Inn.   
Free if you have your NT Membership Card with you.
Or if you are early enough, free at the side of the A625 near the start of the track to Froggatt Edge, at 255775.

Fifteen minutes gentle level walk to the crag.  
Or if it is absolutely tipping down, 5 mins to the bar of the Grouse - and don’t panic, the crag dries quickly after a shower and indeed after heavy rain.

Just for once I’ll have my mobile switched on.

Meet below Tody’s Wall, 10.30 onward.  Move to Allen’s Slab later…

Something for everyone here – twenty routes at Severe and below, some superb HS’s, several days’ climbing at VS and above:  and classics at all standards.   Six of the top 50 routes in Eastern Grit are here.   
Scene of several of my minor triumphs, of one or two exciting moments, and lots of fun.
Plenty of trees to give shelter from the sun, and it’s child- and dog-friendly too.

Sample the well-protected delight of Sunset Crack HS 4b, or the unprotected thrill of Sunset Slab HVS 4b .     The juggy delight of the steep Terrace Crack, another HS 4b.    Or take a rest anywhere on the classic VD, Heather Wall.    
Entertain the crowd as you struggle to gain the slab of Tody’s Wall HVS 5a or test your nerve on Three Pebble Slab – another classic HVS 5a, with a KMC story behind it.  

Show off your jamming skills on the superb HVS 5a, Valkyrie - or if your jamming is little better than mine, on Diamond Crack HS 4b.    
To the right of Diamond Crack, Broken Crack VS 5a demands better jamming or a good first-aid kit.   

Further right still Sickle Buttress S 4a only needs one jam but does need confidence in friction on the little curved ramp that prompted its name, and careful thought to leave the comfortable ledge at the top of the ramp.   It may only be Severe, but the route is far more polished below the ramp than above it….

Lovely open climbing with delicate moves on Allen’s Slab S4a:  in contrast, two athletic moves get you up Trapeze Direct HS 4c.   Or traverse right for Trapeze itself – the popular VD, well-protected at the top only if you are clever enough.

Toward the RH end of the Edge is “arguably the best line on the crag” which our own Nat Allen and Bowdon Black dug out of the ferns in 1948:  Green Gut HS 4a.

Further right, a good collection of strenuous high E numbers (more Elastoplast) then a final classic – the delightful Chequers Buttress, HVS 5a, which gets my vote as the best route on the crag.  I always used to fall off the move onto the arête.  I doubt if I can get that far these days, but I'm sure you will.

Now, before we go home, there are the Froggatt boulders……

Roger Dyke

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 Roger D 
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