TP Bank Holiday Meet Report

Members: Sue Hughes, Pete Hughes, Tim Howarth, Laura Bond, Dave Wylie, Lucie Crouch, Gareth Williams, Emily Pitts, Andy Stratford, Jo Stratford, Christine Beeston, Kate Harvey, Philippa Maye, Jim Symon, Mark Ashley, Mark Garrod, Michelle Harvie

Guests: Neil Boynton, Remi Boynton, Kate Graham, Bec Chalkley, Zoe Muffet, Ged Burkett

I must apologise to all who attended for the following very short and rather poor meet report – my good intentions have been somewhat sidetracked by a few small legal matters......

Despite a ‘’less than perfect’’ forecast a good crowd gathered on Friday evening at Ty Powdwr for the BBQ meet. The torrential downpours on Friday meant that any serious attempt on Lliwedd as per the promo for Saturday was abandoned. Emily P, Zoe, Becs and Dave opted for Bochlywdd Buttress in Ogwen valley and although they ‘touched rock’ there was no climbing due to the damp conditions. Instead the team decided to KMC (Keep Munching Cake).  Gareth and Kate Graham had an unpromising start climbing in the Pass on a slippery Brant (VS) before a short burst of rain sent them scurrying to Tremadog for a good climb on Valerie Rib (HS 4b).

Andy and Jo opted for a Bus to the Pen Y Grwyd then a somewhat wet and murky traverse of the Glyders taking in Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr, Y Garn and Elidir Fawr and back to Ty Powdwr whilst on their way from Manchester Mark and Michelle did a loop on the Carnedds from Aber and up to Foel Fras and back down in the rain. Christine and Neil took Remi on his first proper scramble on Crib Goch which he thoroughly enjoyed. 

As the afternoon wore on, the weather improved and the sunshine we had ordered for the BBQ arrived in the nick of time. There was an abundance of chargrilled delights and as usual plenty of the sweet stuff afterwards. No-one went hungry!

I have a total mental block as to what Jo and I did on Sunday, but I do know that we arrived home that afternoon, and I recall that Gareth and Kate teamed up again for a look at the Atlantic Slabs of Carnedd Y Filiast.  

My apologies once again to all who attended for my poor recording of events. 

Come to Ty Powdwr for a traditional bank holiday meet. Last year was a great turnout with thirteen of us there for the whole weekend and another eight or nine for one or two nights at various points. The BBQ will probably be on Saturday and will be lit about 5.30pm to cook from 6.30pm. Due to the timing of the BBQ on Saturday we will be aiming for the big climbing day to be on the Sunday to get a longer day - but keep an eye on this webpage and on scribble – if the forecast changes radically we may shift to suit the weather.

Can anyone who intends to come who has a large-ish decent BBQ who is prepared to bring it for communal use please let me know. Please bring food for the BBQ for yourself and to share.

PLEASE USE THE ''ADD ME'' IF YOU ARE COMING - OR DROP JO or MYSELF AN EMAIL

Providing the Sunday has a decent weather forecast, then this year the crag I’m aiming to go to is one of the tallest mountain crags in Wales – Lliwedd – hopefully it will have been dry for the previous day or two. The crag is steeped in history, having been the favoured training ground for the early pioneers of Everest days. I’ve done a nine pitch route and a twelve pitch route here before and it gives a very satisfying day out. On the eastern Buttress there are climbs at relatively amenable grades such as the wonderful Horned Crag (9 pitches, V Diff). Paradise/Black Arete (8 pitches, HS 4a), Terminator (5 pitches E1 5b) and The Sword / Route 2 (5 pitches - VS then VDiff) can all be finished up the fantastic 120m Terminal Arete (Diff) either moving together or pitching. Avalanche / Red Wall / Longlands (12 pitches S 4b) tops out on the summit. On completion of either Terminator or The Sword/Route 2 (both finish part way up the massive crag!) it is possible to traverse across Great Terrace and finish up Red Wall / Longlands. Further along the crag Slanting Buttress Ridge is one of the very best easier routes (10 pitches, Diff) in Wales – 250 metres of exposed climbing finishing on one of the most photographed Aretes anywhere.   

We’ll be getting the early bus at 08.00 from Llanberis so we can get our choice of route. (this means leaving the hut at 07.30am!) This crag has its’ share of loose rock, and due to the slanting nature of the strata, the climbing is always interesting. Route finding can be a challenge although all the routes described see plenty of traffic and the belays are well worn on most routes.

On finishing we can descend to Pen-y-Pass via Y Gribin (1) to Glaslyn and get the bus or if we’ve made good time on the routes and have energy to spare ascend from Glaslyn to Bwlch Coch then along Crib Y Ddysgl (1) to Carnedd Ugain summit and descending the pleasant easy Cwm Glas Spur (1-) back to the Pass and a bus from the RAC boulders or a walk back to the hut through the quarries.

As a possible alternative day out (or one for an easier day)..... last year we did Clogwyn yr Oen in the central Moelwyn range near Blaeneau Ffestiniog, approx the same driving time from TP as Tremadog or Holyhead/Gogarth. The hillside has several extensive crags listed in the (definitive) CC Merionnydd guidebook, and the new rockfax has a limited selection of the best routes, which are at all grades, single pitch and multi pitch. It was pretty quiet and is definitely worth a return visit and certainly will be less busy than all the usual venues.

Everyone welcome for the whole weekend including prospective and associate members. Please be aware that the multipitch climbing on Lliwedd is not best suited to novices - please contact the meet leaders for a chat - there will be plenty of other options - not everyone will be going to Lliwedd!!