Sun 18th Sep, 2022

Clwyd Limestone - Trevor Rocks

Daniel O'Brien

Members: Craig Marsden, Sue Marsden, Phoebe Marsden, Colin Maddison, Jim Symon, Dan O'Brien, Edward Courtnell, Andy Pierce, Caro, Michelle, Stuart Hurworth, Daniel Arrowsmith, Jo Stratford, Lucie WIlliams, Steve Lopaki

Guests/Prospectives: Rob Embry, Andreas (sorry missed surname), William Colum, Lorenzo D'aguilar, Danius Babrauskas.

Third time lucky for me. Having been washed out of Trevor Quarry on two previous occasions and only managing one route across those visits, this meet had a low bar to clear for "my best trip to Trevor" and it certainly did.  Unfortunately a number of the attendees had been on Colin's version of this meet where it was so sunny it was cracking the flags so they were not quite so impressed.

As advertised, we started at Suspect Wall where Rob, Dan and Ed made a team ascent of Forensic Science (5a) and SND (4a).  Danius joined soon after and in pairs ascents were made of Haven't Got A Clue (6a) and Forever The Suspect (6a+).

As everyone else arrived (and brought some light rain with them) the group made their way further down the crag towards the Impact and Compact Wall areas.  Jo, Sue and Lucie headed of for a hike around the hillside taking in some wonderful early autumn views and the occasional drizzle.  Daniel, Caro and Jo made the first of a number of ascents of Catch the Pigeon, a tall route with an unlikely looking grade of 4a. It looked at least 5a to me.

Steve led The Great Escape (6a+) as did others including Daniel with lots of followers including Caro, Lorenzo, Jo and William.

Colin, Jim, Craig and Phoebe headed even further right to some lovely clean slabs for ascents of Over Yr, On my Heddlu (5b), Christmas Gone Crackers (6a) and Adrafelin What (4c) - ascents made all the more heroic due to Phoebe's sore toe!

Dan and Rob climbed the potentially under-graded Impaction (5a) and Rob managed opening Impact (6b) on top-rope as the first of the rain arrived.

As the drizzle eased and the cold wind started to bite most of the group made the sensible decision to decamp to a local pub for refreshments.  Daniel, however, decided to sneak in one last route with a fine ascent of Borderline (6a+) followed by William.

Other routes I saw get climbed included: Ant Hill Mob (5b), Prof Pat Pending (6a), The Fuddites (6b), Fudd For Thought (5b)

It was one of those days where there were so many people making so many ascents that tracking and recording them all was nigh on impossible.  If I missed your climb I can only apologise!

Daniel O'Brien

Meet Promo:

Trevor Rocks is a collection of quarried limestone walls located above the highly scenic and appropriately named Panorama Walk above Llangollen.  The climbing is mostly single pitch sport routes in the lower and middle grades, though there are some trad routes for enthusiasts.

Trevor is a surprisingly short trip from the Manchester area and as such perfect for a summer day-trip.  To get there, follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large lay-by is reached on the left. For those of you of a more technological inclination, the GPS coordinates of the parking are 52.9804, -3.1436.

From the lay-by, follow an obvious incline up the hill on the left as you look up towards the crag.  After about 400m you will reach the foot of the quarry.  The plan is to meet at Suspect Wall where the highest concentration of reasonable grades can be found and then work our way along the crag as we feel the need.

I will be at the car park around 10.00 and at the crag by 10.30.  Hope to see you there!

Daniel O'Brien

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