Tue 14th Jun, 2022

Shining Clough

Andy Stratford


Shining Clough has a significant history in the development of Peak gritstone climbing. It is almost hidden when view from the road (unless you know where to look) but when the crag is finally viewed up close, it is big with long routes by gritstone standards. I was amazed when I visited last year to find that some of the best routes there are still super clean and not the green obscurities that I had imagined. There are a couple of MEGA classics! I wrote this last year….

‘’Jim decided to warm us up on the adjacent 3 star classic Severe of Via Principa. As ever Jim made short work of the 25 metre route Following up, I was engaged with some fabulous rough grit, unpolished despite many ascents (well, many for a moorland crag), following strong natural features. It had everything; exposure, cracks, jugs, gear wherever you wanted - an absolute joy and with doubt worth 4 stars - if fact, I'd say the best single pitch grit route at that grade I've ever climbed.’’

Other ***classics are East Buttress (HVA 5a), Phoenix Climb (VS 4c), Pisa Superdirect (HVS 5a) plus another trio at E4 to E6…..and there are a host of ** star routes to go at ranging from Severe to E6.

The other thing to consider is parking, I’ll be there pretty early myself as I want to get a longish session in – aiming to be parked by 3pm and at the crag for 4pm – yes – the walk in really is a good sweaty hour of uphill toil, with a not easy to find path for the final steepest 2km which means bracken and boulder bashing!  

 https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=123

Please use the approach notes on UKC and in the Rockfax guides; not the old BMC guides. Head torch advised for the walk-out, and some midge repellant too should the beasts be around. Any questions please ask. 



Andy Stratford







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