Wed 6th Jul, 2022
Dovestones Edge – Wednesday 6th July 2022
Jack Buczko, Jim Symon, Ben Jones, Rory Marsden
Nearly Daniel Arrowsmith
It felt like rain was coming. Still, Jim, Ben and I headed up to Dovestones Edge from Binn Green in good spirits. We arrived to find the crag a bit green but not to be deterred Jim headed up Central Tower shortly followed by Ben who bagged his first outdoor route wearing my rock boots which were a good size too big. I followed up as well and the first route was done.
Jack arrived, having walked up from the reservoir car park, and belayed for me on Answer Crack which was becoming increasingly tricky as the drizzle started and rapidly progressed to full on rain. I splashed my way to the top and Jack followed up before Ben gave it a fine effort only to be defeated by the increasing slipperiness. Jim waded in and managed to fish the gear out on his way to the top.
That left us with just the soggy walk back to the car. In spite of having two of the possible approach paths occupied somehow we still managed to miss Daniel who walked up to find he had missed everyone. Sorry pal!
Dovestones stands proud above the reservoir that bears its name in the Chew valley area, best guidebook being ‘’Over the Moors’’, although it is also in ‘’Western Grit’’. Parking can either be at the Resevoir (£4) with a walk in up via the Cairn on the Fox’s Stone, or at Binn Green (free but more limited). The walk in from Binn Green always seems steeper somehow….
Dovey is a Moorland evening crag par excellence – with a host of routes at amenable grades working left to right highly recommended are: Coopers Crack (S 4b), Nasal Buttress (HS 4b), Central Tower (VDiff), Tower Arete (VS 4c), Left Embrasure (VS 4b), Noddys Wall (VS 4b), Swan Crack (HVD), Layback Crack (HS 4b), Answer Crack (HVD), Question Mark (S 4a), Hanging Crack (E2 5b).
Answer Crack at HVD is probably one of the best routes of its grade in the peak.
It’s a place to try to arrive reasonably early at to make the most of the late afternoon sunshine – and hope for a breeze to keep the midges off. or bring a headnet and/or repellent! I’ll be aiming to be parked up for 3pm and climbing by 4pm, but it is long nights now, so it is worth even being at the crag for 6.30 – you will still get a good three hours climbing in.
Any questions drop me a line.