Wed 6th Jul, 2022

Dovestones

Andy Stratford

Rory Marsden


Dovestones stands proud above the reservoir that bears its name in the Chew valley area, best guidebook being ‘’Over the Moors’’, although it is also in ‘’Western Grit’’. Parking can either be at the Resevoir (£4) with a walk in up via the Cairn on the Fox’s Stone, or at Binn Green (free but more limited). The walk in from Binn Green always seems steeper somehow….

Dovey is a Moorland evening crag par excellence – with a host of routes at amenable grades working left to right highly recommended are: Coopers Crack (S 4b), Nasal Buttress (HS 4b), Central Tower (VDiff), Tower Arete (VS 4c), Left Embrasure (VS 4b), Noddys Wall (VS 4b), Swan Crack (HVD), Layback Crack (HS 4b), Answer Crack (HVD), Question Mark (S 4a), Hanging Crack (E2 5b).

Answer Crack at HVD is probably one of the best routes of its grade in the peak.

It’s a place to try to arrive reasonably early at to make the most of the late afternoon sunshine – and hope for a breeze to keep the midges off. or bring a headnet and/or repellent! I’ll be aiming to be parked up for 3pm and climbing by 4pm, but it is long nights now, so it is worth even being at the crag for 6.30 – you will still get a good three hours climbing in.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dovestones_edge-108/

Any questions drop me a line.



Andy Stratford







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