Sun 3rd Jul, 2022

Local climbing meet. Scribble

Rory Marsden

Stanage Plantation – Sunday 3rd July 2022



Daniel Arrowsmith, Jack Buczko, Dainius Babrauskas, Rob Clark, Roger Dyke, Rory Marsden, Gowry Sisupalan, Andy Stratford, Holly Warder, Dave Wylie


Leaving Manchester in the heavy drizzle at 8am hardly seemed like the most promising start to a day of climbing but it turned out to be a cracker. As forecast by the time we reached Stanage the weather had dried up and there was clearly a breeze which, importantly, boded well for keeping the midgies down! I thought Rob and I were the first to arrive but it turned out Gowry had already had time for a run before we had even made it to the car park! As we had a few minutes to wait for Andy to arrive we took advantage of the Peeky Grinders coffee van and after a caffeine hit we were ready for the day.


Having expected four or five people to turn up the eventual total of ten was a great turn out and gave us many possible combinations for climbing pairs, threes and even fours. The gathering started at the Paradise Wall area and by the time there were ten of us a full scale siege had taken hold including an impressive assent by another party being led by a visually impaired climber.


Seeking some more space, visits were made to the Fina, Millsom’s Minion and Pool Wall areas before regrouping at the Unconquerables. While Daniel and Rob put on a masterclass in classic gritstone I provided the demonstration of how not to layback the crux of The Right Unconquerable.


Flight /flʌɪt/


the action or process of flying through the air.

"an eagle in flight"


Fortunately those gathered were taking more notes from Daniel and Rob and so collectively we conquered the following routes:


Andy & Gowry

Slanting Crack, HS 4b, led by Andy


Andy, Gowry & Holly

Paradise Arete, VS 4c, led by Andy


Daniel & Andy

Millsom’s Minion, E1 5b, led by Daniel

The Left Unconquerable, E1 5b, led by Daniel

The Right Unconquerable, HVS 5a, led by Daniel


Gowry, Holly & Dave

Paradise Lost, D, led by Dave

Sand Gully, D, led by Dave


Holly & Jack

Paradise Wall, HS 4b, led by Jack

Paradise Crack, HVD 4a, led by Jack

Pillar Arete, VD, led by Holly


Rob and Rory

Parasite, HVS 5a, led by Rob


Rob, Rory, Dave & Dainius

Paradise Wall, HS 4b, led by Rory


Rob, Rory & Dainius

Fina, HVS 5b, led by Rob

The Right Unconquerable, HVS 5a, led by Rob

Pillar Arete, VD, led by Rory


If you ever want the Beta for Paradise Crack please see Holly, her demonstration of the ooudgelling required is not to be missed. Apparently it is not paradise and was also Jack’s choice.


Welcome to Dainius, who was not only on his first KMC meet but also his ever trad climbing experience. After casually ticking off routes up to HVS including an all time classic he might have to convert from sport climbing!


Another great day out for the KMC, thanks to all who attended.

Rory Marsden

Meet Promo:

Stanage Plantation – Sunday 3rd July 2022


Stanage Plantation has something for everyone with a load of classic and fantastic routes across the grades. There is also a fantastic selection of bouldering so feel free to bring a mat or a rope. The approach through the trees gives a great atmosphere and maybe even an escape from the crowds. We can only hope!


Meet at the Unconquerables area at 10am.


Closest parking is the plantation Pay and Display.

Rory Marsden

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