Craigallan winter climbing/walking, March 13-16 joint Rucksack Club and Karabiner MC

Present: Gareth Williams (RC/KMC), Jared Kitchen (KMC), Stuart Hurworth (KMC), Michelle Harrison (KMC), Yvonne King (KMC), Josh Lehr (KMC), Steve Graham (KMC), Andy Lewtas (KMC), Paul Lonsdale (KMC).

In the weeks and days leading up to the meet there had been good interest across both clubs with all bunks booked and even a waiting list for the KMC. As we got closer to the meet, it became clear that snow/ice conditions for winter climbing would be poor to non-existant. Unfortunately, this combined with injury and illness led to a number of people having to drop out, the positive to this being that all those on the waiting list could be offered a place. Even though the snow and ice wasn't what had been hoped for, the weather was dominated by high pressure - cold and clear with blue skies and sunshine, meaning we were able to get out there for lots of other activity.

On Friday morning, a team of three set out for the North Face of Ben Nevis, undeterred by the poor climbing conditions. Their decision just might have been influenced by Yvonne's recent purchase of a new walking axe, which she, Paul and Josh put to the test up Number 3 Gully, reporting thin conditions but more than adequate neve to demand use of crampons and axe. They continued to the summit and back down the zig-zags and back over the shoulder of Carn Dearg to return to the North Face car park.

Jared was in Munro bagging mode, and persuaded Andy to join him on Stob Coire Sgreamhach which they ascended via the Sron Na Lairig scramble (G2). Crampons needed at one point on descent when crossing a patch of firm snow but the ascent was decidedly summery. Gareth was also in bagging mode, making an ascent of Corbetts Creach Bheinn and Fuar Bheinn. Rather than tackle them by the normal horseshoe from the south, he started from Glen Tarbert to take in Holly Tree Slabs and Coire Mheall Challuim Slabs (both grade 2 scrambles). There were some short sections of worthwhile scrambing but these were broken up by heathery ledges and slopes which detracted from the quality a little. A nice walk around the corrie to the summit of Creach Bheinn followed, and then over to Fuar Bheinn before reascending Cruach Bheinn for the return leg and steep descent into Coire Nam Frithallt.

On Saturday, Jared remained in Munro mode, as was Steve, and they took on an ascent of Ben Starav and Glas Bheinn Mhor back down in time to stop for a pint in the pub. The remaining seven of us took a ride over the Corran Ferry to Ardgour to make an ascent of Garbh Bheinn, which at 885m isn't far short of a Munro. The lack of height is more than compensated by the craggy features, which have led it to be described as one of the rockiest mountains on the mainland.

We started up Eagle's Nest Slabs (G3 scramble, ***). No eagles in sight, but plenty of sunshine and stunning views. We moved over clean, dry gneiss slabs with friction almost as good as that found in the Cuillin of Skye. Scrambling in t-shirts we wondered why we had bothered to bring an axe and crampons! Upon reaching the top of the scramble we descended a little way into Garbh Coire Mhor. Some soft patches of snow on the ground weren't too hard to negotiate but might have been more troublesome if it had been colder, so maybe not so daft having those axes with us after all! This led us to the foot of The Great Rib (Diff, ***), well, not quite, there's a little bit of ground to cross to reach the foot of the ridge, which UKC comments describe as harder than anything on the ridge itself! A bit of scrambling over dry, then wet slabs, led into a slimy gully. A soggy mossy section under a chockstone, then up some vertical wet grass and we were at the ridge with solid, dry rock, good holds and ample protection, what more could we ask for? Moving togther as two pairs and a three, it took 2 hours to complete the route. The walk back down the moutain's ridge was rocky and arduous but thankfully soon over.

Evening meal consisted of a communal three course extravaganza of soup, Thai tofu curry, cake and custard. Everyone helped out in one way or another with the preparation, cooking or cleaning up, particular thanks to Michelle for doing far more than her fair share. We all agreed that a communal meal really adds something to a hut meet and look forward to more of the same on future hut meets.

By Sunday people were feeling tired after big days out in the hills. The die hard baggers went for Bheinn Mhanach (Steve) or Beinn a'Bhuiridh (Gareth) from the Falls of Cruachan on the journey home. Others went looking for wildlife but didn't seem to find it in the Weatherspoons pub they ended up in. Special mention to Stuart and Michelle, upon arriving home they remembered they had met on Preston on the way up, and Michelle's car was still there now! They had to set out again and drive back to Preston to collect it.

Many thanks to all who came and made the meet a big success.

Update 4/11/24: as we now have 10 members booked onto the meet I will not take any further bookings at this stage to make sure there is space for Rucksack Club members. However, if you would like to express your interest please click the Add Me button and I will treat anyone doing this as on the reserve list in case space becomes available.

Update 23/10/24: for now I will restrict KMC bookings to 10 spaces to make sure there is space left in the hut for Rucksack Club members. However even if 10 spaces are showing as booked please express your interest, so that if spaces become available later I can contact you to let you know.

Craigallan, owned by the Rucksack Club, has an idyllic situation on the shore of Loch Linnhe, in North Ballachulish. Many of Scotland’s prime winter climbing venues are an option from Craigallan, with very easy access to Glencoe and Fort William, and Creag Meagaidh in reasonable striking distance. As always conditions can be variable in Scotland but mid-March is often a good time of year for some late-season ice on Ben Nevis.

For non-climbers there is a wealth of Munros and Corbetts nearby, with easy access to the Glencoe and Glen Etive hills, Glen Nevis classics such as the Ring of Steall and countless other options. For the more adventurous walker there are plenty of scrambling/mountaineering options such as the classic Aonach Eagach ridge.

If you attended the Winter Skills training course in January this would be an ideal meet to come and practise what you learnt. If you don’t have any prior experience of Scottish winter, or limited experience, you may be more limited in what is appropriate for you on this meet but there are still plenty of options without heading high up into the hills. Please contact me (Gareth Williams) for more information before booking onto the meet if your experience is limited.

More information about Craigallan is available on the RC website. GPS coordinates for the hut are 56.68595, -5.21820, access into the hut is around the back a short way up a gravel track. As this is a joint meet with the Rucksack Club we will be their guests and therefore paying the guest fee of £14 per person per night. I will be travelling up on the Thursday after work and staying 3 nights.